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I noticed that I was losing coolant. Today I put a pressure tester on my system and saw coolant coming from the intake manifold. The leak is coming from the second from the last bolt on the intake (left side) When I shut off the vehicle, it seeps for a few minutes (my guess it stops because the system is not under pressure). What could be the cause. I tightened the intake bolts. My question is what is the cause. Intake is Edelbrock Performer (2101) and Edel RPM heads. Had no leaks in the last 9 years since I installed the setup.
Looks like a remove/replace intake gaskets job on the horizon.
If it was leaking on the outside its likely leaking on the underside also. I suggest loosening all of the bolts then re-torque them starting in the center and working your way out and also put one container of Barz-Leak into your cooling system.
Unless you want to clog and replace your heater core, don't do this. Just seal that one bolt and you'll be good to go.
Originally Posted by toobroketoretire
If it was leaking on the outside its likely leaking on the underside also. I suggest loosening all of the bolts then re-torque them starting in the center and working your way out and also put one container of Barz-Leak into your cooling system.
I agree, I would not even entertain using barz leak or any other type of "stop leak" for any system. It is a recipe for disaster. One should always find and correct the cause instead of doing the "quick, easy fix"
Keep in mind that just cleaning the threads on the bolt is only half of the equation. The threads in the cylinder head need to be cleaned also. I have small round brushes that I use to clean the threads in areas like this so I know both surfaces will allow the sealant to adhere.
And NOT wanting to 'hi-jack' you thread. I was like you a long time ago on NOT wanting to use any system sealants if something were leaking....but to be honest...there are some products that are REALLY awesome....that I would have NEVER tried unless it was one of my customers DEMANDING me to try it...due to the cost of doing it the 'right way' was costly.....and 8+ years later....the system is still sealed up. Not one hiccup .
Keep in mind that just cleaning the threads on the bolt is only half of the equation. The threads in the cylinder head need to be cleaned also. I have small round brushes that I use to clean the threads in areas like this so I know both surfaces will allow the sealant to adhere.
And NOT wanting to 'hi-jack' you thread. I was like you a long time ago on NOT wanting to use any system sealants if something were leaking....but to be honest...there are some products that are REALLY awesome....that I would have NEVER tried unless it was one of my customers DEMANDING me to try it...due to the cost of doing it the 'right way' was costly.....and 8+ years later....the system is still sealed up. Not one hiccup .
DUB[/QUOTE
Not a thread hijack this is what a forum is SUPPOSED to be. Exchanging/sharing experiences, idea, opinions, and things that DO WORK
Using Teflon thread sealant is wise. Because I have seen so many engines where there may not be a coolant leak...but puddles of oil coming from the bolts...collecting on the intake around the bolts.
Using Teflon thread sealant is wise. Because I have seen so many engines where there may not be a coolant leak...but puddles of oil coming from the bolts...collecting on the intake around the bolts.
DUB
I just fixed one this week. A little PTE thread dope, and good to go.