Spreader Bars
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,700
Likes: 270
From: New York
Spreader Bars
I was going to put in a Spreader Bar this weekend. I see two:
http://www.vbandp.com/auto-parts.htm...category_id=47
and ....
http://www.vansteel.com/index.cfm?fu...&SubGroup=3035
They look very different. First the bar itself. The VB is zinc primed and powder coated. The Vansteel looks like metal. Not sure of the coating.
Also the VB has two holes. The Vansteel multiple holes and not sure why.
Any help would be appreciated.
http://www.vbandp.com/auto-parts.htm...category_id=47
and ....
http://www.vansteel.com/index.cfm?fu...&SubGroup=3035
They look very different. First the bar itself. The VB is zinc primed and powder coated. The Vansteel looks like metal. Not sure of the coating.
Also the VB has two holes. The Vansteel multiple holes and not sure why.
Any help would be appreciated.
2026 Loser of the Year
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 36,560
Likes: 7,006
From: New Or-leens Loo-z-anna
Rookie guess: The VB bar has plates with only two holes per plate.....the plates are to be located approximately on each frame rail, then bolted to the frame rails.....the bat-eyes (brackets that hold the heim joints in place) are positioned on the two frame-plate so that the bar will not contact the engine pulley.....then the bat-eye brackets are welded to the plates.
The VanSteel plates have multiple holes......the plates are to be located approximately on each frame rail......then the slotted holes are used to bolt the plates to the rails.....the plates can be moved forward or rearward with the slots so the bar will not contact the engine pulley....then the 4 plate bolts are tightened........once the plates are positioned exactly where the bar should be, the other holes are used to hold the plates to the frame rails so that there is no possibility of shifting forward or rearward.
The VanSteel plates have multiple holes......the plates are to be located approximately on each frame rail......then the slotted holes are used to bolt the plates to the rails.....the plates can be moved forward or rearward with the slots so the bar will not contact the engine pulley....then the 4 plate bolts are tightened........once the plates are positioned exactly where the bar should be, the other holes are used to hold the plates to the frame rails so that there is no possibility of shifting forward or rearward.
Heel & Toe
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
From: Acworth Georgia
recently got this one for $99. shipped the day after I ordered.
http://www.speeddirect.com/index.php...3-spreader-bar
http://www.speeddirect.com/index.php...3-spreader-bar
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 8,812
Likes: 2,029
From: eastern NC
I was going to put in a Spreader Bar this weekend. I see two:
http://www.vbandp.com/auto-parts.htm...category_id=47
and ....
http://www.vansteel.com/index.cfm?fu...&SubGroup=3035
They look very different. First the bar itself. The VB is zinc primed and powder coated. The Vansteel looks like metal. Not sure of the coating.
Also the VB has two holes. The Vansteel multiple holes and not sure why.
Any help would be appreciated.
http://www.vbandp.com/auto-parts.htm...category_id=47
and ....
http://www.vansteel.com/index.cfm?fu...&SubGroup=3035
They look very different. First the bar itself. The VB is zinc primed and powder coated. The Vansteel looks like metal. Not sure of the coating.
Also the VB has two holes. The Vansteel multiple holes and not sure why.
Any help would be appreciated.
If you are running electric fans and not the original, the welded one will work just fine as there is more room for the bar.
The Vansteel bar is another way to mount your bar. The quality of their products is first class. I do know that Vansteel has continued to do R&D on the C2-C3 Corvette chassis while many vendors have moved on to the more prolific (profitable?) newer Corvettes.
If Vansteel had offered this bar back when I wanted to install one, I would certainly have bought theirs for the above mentioned reason alone. I would just give them a call and ask them what is involved in mounting it in your particular car and I'm sure they will be happy to explain it in great detail.
Good luck... GUSTO
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 17,673
Likes: 199
From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
Basically you want the bar to clear the pulleys and belts and more importantly you want to get the bar as close as possible to the centerline between the shock towers ( where the top of the shock goes through.)
If you can weld then this unwelded bar is a better option because you can put the bar in the best location for your Vette
If you can weld then this unwelded bar is a better option because you can put the bar in the best location for your Vette
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 215
Likes: 6
From: Mebane, NC
re
Very happy with the one I got from Muskegon Brakes. It has the adjustable holes. Had to add a couple washers between the fan and the hub to ensure the fan didn't hit the bar. Don't remember what I paid.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 8,721
Likes: 108
From: Canada
Bought a Speed Direct one off a fellow forum mmber in June. Best suspension upgrade for the $, just read the reviews on this forum. I have to put a small spacer in btn the fan blades as at full wot the fans bend back a bit and kiss the bar. I have Bilsteins, 550 lb front shocks, new bushings, 17" perf tires yet this inexpensive bar made the biggest difference in handling. I tend to do one mod ar a time to feel its affect. Whichever one you decide to go with I'm sure that you will be pleased with the results, remember these bars are only meant to stop the towers from further flexing in and not pushing them back to their original non fatigued positions.
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Safety Car
Joined: Feb 2012
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From: Orlando FL
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 8,721
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From: Canada
I took that with a grain of salt. I found that the towers would flex in while cornering especially on a higher speed run. This unit stops that flex and allows the suspension to focus on what it was originally designed to do. I got into the car and honestly it felt like a totally different car, everything was so much tighter. I also have a SharkBar (for yrs) which also stiffens the frame up, together these two components work incredibly well together.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,700
Likes: 270
From: New York
Bought a Speed Direct one off a fellow forum mmber in June. Best suspension upgrade for the $, just read the reviews on this forum. I have to put a small spacer in btn the fan blades as at full wot the fans bend back a bit and kiss the bar. I have Bilsteins, 550 lb front shocks, new bushings, 17" perf tires yet this inexpensive bar made the biggest difference in handling. I tend to do one mod ar a time to feel its affect. Whichever one you decide to go with I'm sure that you will be pleased with the results, remember these bars are only meant to stop the towers from further flexing in and not pushing them back to their original non fatigued positions.
I'll have to buy one and give it a try.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,700
Likes: 270
From: New York
Thank you. The picture was very helpful! Actually, years ago Chevy sold a flex fan with a aluminum extension and I installed that. But from the pic, it looks like it will fit.
Last edited by cottoneg; Oct 1, 2015 at 07:39 AM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 7,442
Likes: 968
From: Tennessee/Rhode Island
I had the VBP spreader bar for years and never installed it on my 78 with stock mechanical fan with the unwelded tabs and it was very challenging to prefit correctly. I finally gave up on the that bar and sold it to a forum member having never been installed. Do yourself a favor and by the Speedirect bar with the adjustable bracket (or the Van Steel one which looks exactly the same as the Speedirect one) which is MUCH easlier to install. Every C3 should have a spreader bar and for the dollars the benefit cannot be beat to the steering, handling, tightness of the chassis, and ride of a C3. The spreader bar will make a very noticeable change to the parameters mentioned previously. Every car I own that I have added some sort of chassis brace has seen tremendous improvement...Front strut tower barce on my 2008 Chrysler 300, Subframe connectors with seat bracket bolts AND a trunk shock tower brace on my 94 Mustang GT convertible, and front AND rear Strut tower braces on my 2001 Pontiac Grand Prix. Every car benefits from chassis braces.
Intermediate
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 43
Likes: 12
From: Norway
I have installed a 17" flex fan a few weeks ago, and it clears the spreader bar just like the original fan did.
Race Director
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 18,668
Likes: 2,564
Distance between towers
This makes sence, and I think you`re right, but the "sales pitch" at the Speed Direct link posted above says... With this new kit owners can spread the sagging vertical mounts back to their proper upright position in minutes and dramatically improve & stabilize the suspension geometry. So IF you could straighten a sagging tower as they claim, how would you know where the correct original position was... and could the adjustible joints take the pressure needed to actually bend the towers back without bending the bar?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 9,423
Likes: 239
From: Powassan ON
Another vote for the SD Bar. (non welded) Aluminum bar, steel mounts. Might want to upgrade to a bit heavier grade hardware.
Lots of range for front/rear adjustment. Just make sure your control arm bolts are long enough. Might be an issue if you have alot of alignment shims.
'78, mechanical fan, 3 groove pully, stock front suspension. About 1/8" space between the pully and the bar. About the same 1/8" between the bar and the shroud.
If the vid works, ignore the "tic tic tic". Fan was touching the shroud for some unknown reason.
When installing I found it worked to take the weight of the car off the tire, mounted the bar ends, bolted it all a bit more than finger tight, put the car back on the ground, slid the bar in, turned it to lengthen and slid the hardware in place, turned the bar by hand as long as it would go, then 1/2 a turn more with a wrench and then drank beer and admired my handiwork. I work slow and it took me 45min for one side, 15 for the other.
Lots of range for front/rear adjustment. Just make sure your control arm bolts are long enough. Might be an issue if you have alot of alignment shims.
'78, mechanical fan, 3 groove pully, stock front suspension. About 1/8" space between the pully and the bar. About the same 1/8" between the bar and the shroud.
If the vid works, ignore the "tic tic tic". Fan was touching the shroud for some unknown reason.
When installing I found it worked to take the weight of the car off the tire, mounted the bar ends, bolted it all a bit more than finger tight, put the car back on the ground, slid the bar in, turned it to lengthen and slid the hardware in place, turned the bar by hand as long as it would go, then 1/2 a turn more with a wrench and then drank beer and admired my handiwork. I work slow and it took me 45min for one side, 15 for the other.
Last edited by Dodosmike; Oct 1, 2015 at 01:13 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 8,874
Likes: 3,551
From: Fernandina Beach FL
2023 Restomod of the Year finalist
2020 C3 of the Year Winner - Modified
Here' s a visual=
I'm going w/ a panhard bar from Speedway Motors to clear my pulleys-
DSCN5503 by Richard Hayes, on Flickr
DSCN5506 by Richard Hayes, on Flickr
I'm going w/ a panhard bar from Speedway Motors to clear my pulleys-
DSCN5503 by Richard Hayes, on FlickrDSCN5506 by Richard Hayes, on Flickr
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 11,183
Likes: 3,334
From: North of Toronto - Ontario
Mine came from VBP, ordered an unwelded kit but couldn't get to locate inside of the front studs without hitting the WP pulley, didn't want to go above or below so ended making brackets from scratch and locating slightly ahead of the front CA studs but still have access to all the bolts.
BB with electric fans, lots of room, just not right there.
M
BB with electric fans, lots of room, just not right there.
M
Pro
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 730
Likes: 37
From: Catoosa Okla
I took that with a grain of salt. I found that the towers would flex in while cornering especially on a higher speed run. This unit stops that flex and allows the suspension to focus on what it was originally designed to do. I got into the car and honestly it felt like a totally different car, everything was so much tighter. I also have a SharkBar (for yrs) which also stiffens the frame up, together these two components work incredibly well together.
I did an LS swap, and due to pulley locations, I can't use this bar or any other one I've found. This said, the area of potential flex in the upper control arm area needs to be addressed in any C3, in my opinion anyway. So much so, I'll end up fabbing an adjustable bar that will work with an LS engine for this very reason. And yea, I bet it made a noticeable difference in your ride!
