Tight idler arm
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 4,226
Likes: 643
From: Orange County Ca
Tight idler arm
I dropped my idler arm off the frame today in preparation to changing the oil pan gasket. I noticed that the end that bolts to the frame is very tight and hard to twist. I know that they're supposed to be snug and wobble free, but how tight is ok? The other end at the center link is very smooth and moves easily. This arm is about 15 yrs old and was touted as a roller bearing arm that was supposed to be the hot item. I don't know the brand. It is tight and there is no slop.
My power steering has never really been easy, but I just chalked it up to design limitations and wide tires, but now I'm wondering if this joint is supposed to loosen up and be able to spin with less torque? It does have zerk fittings and does accept grease on both ends.
Does the end on the frame even move/twist while driving, or does it just twist in order to get it flat against the frame?
My power steering has never really been easy, but I just chalked it up to design limitations and wide tires, but now I'm wondering if this joint is supposed to loosen up and be able to spin with less torque? It does have zerk fittings and does accept grease on both ends.
Does the end on the frame even move/twist while driving, or does it just twist in order to get it flat against the frame?
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 4,226
Likes: 643
From: Orange County Ca
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 4,226
Likes: 643
From: Orange County Ca
It has always been super tight, even when new. I greased it then and every 5/7k miles after (4-5 times).
It could have been bad when new, I just don't know. I don't want to change it if a new one will be just as tight.
It could have been bad when new, I just don't know. I don't want to change it if a new one will be just as tight.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 4,226
Likes: 643
From: Orange County Ca
FYI per my conversation with a Moog customer service technician and other info, the end that bolts to the frame is supposed to be very tight. No wobble and stiff to twist. There are aftermarket ball bearing kits that you can buy to replace the factory bushing, but they have mixed reviews and I decided not to use them. No major manufacturer makes a roller or ball bearing arm.
So, basically, as long as their isn't any slop in the joint/bushing, you're good to go. If it does get easier to twist as time goes on, but does not have any slop, you're still good to go.
So, basically, as long as their isn't any slop in the joint/bushing, you're good to go. If it does get easier to twist as time goes on, but does not have any slop, you're still good to go.
