1969 corvette won't start
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Joined: Jul 2008
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From: VIRGINIA BEACH VIRGINIA
1969 corvette won't start
Gents;
As stated earlier, I upgraded to a 350/375 crate motor and using a current tester, I have juice to the starter/solenoid and to the alternator and key buzzer, but not to coil and distributor. By the way, besides the harness, I have replaced the coil, rotor, and solenoid. I have had the Starter and Alternator tested and they are fine.
HELP!!!
Thanks,
TED
As stated earlier, I upgraded to a 350/375 crate motor and using a current tester, I have juice to the starter/solenoid and to the alternator and key buzzer, but not to coil and distributor. By the way, besides the harness, I have replaced the coil, rotor, and solenoid. I have had the Starter and Alternator tested and they are fine.
HELP!!!
Thanks,
TED
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 22,154
Likes: 4,165
From: Kannapolis NC
Gents;
As stated earlier, I upgraded to a 350/375 crate motor and using a current tester, I have juice to the starter/solenoid and to the alternator and key buzzer, but not to coil and distributor. By the way, besides the harness, I have replaced the coil, rotor, and solenoid. I have had the Starter and Alternator tested and they are fine.
HELP!!!
Thanks,
TED
As stated earlier, I upgraded to a 350/375 crate motor and using a current tester, I have juice to the starter/solenoid and to the alternator and key buzzer, but not to coil and distributor. By the way, besides the harness, I have replaced the coil, rotor, and solenoid. I have had the Starter and Alternator tested and they are fine.
HELP!!!
Thanks,
TED
Last edited by 65GGvert; Oct 23, 2015 at 10:21 AM. Reason: Deleted incorrect ballast portion for 69's/
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2006
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I've been reading your threads and I can't decide if the engine turns over but won't start, or if it won't turn over unless you jump the solenoid. The coil gets it's voltage from the ballast resistor when it's running, and from the starter solenoid when the key is in start. Post back EXACTLY what happens when you turn the key to start. Do you have voltage on the ballast when the key is in the on position? On both sides? Need some clarification on your problem. Do you even have a ballast? Are you running points?
It's hard enough to diagnose this over the internet as it is.
Exactly what is the issue?
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Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 59
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From: VIRGINIA BEACH VIRGINIA
Ok, I checked the wiring and it is correctly hooked up to the solenoid posts. In response to the previous question, when I turn the key nothing happens. I depressed the clutch, turned the key, and I had no voltage going to the coil or ballast(as stated both are new), however, I did have voltage going to solenoid and starter, and alternator and buzzer(on drivers side). I also had my charger hooked up to the battery as a back up, and I noticed the charge indicator was going down a lot as the key remained depressed. Yes I have new points/rotor on this car also.
Thanks
Thanks
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 22,154
Likes: 4,165
From: Kannapolis NC
If you have 12v going to the solenoid, you should hear at least a click when you turn the key. (if you have 12v on the S connector when you rotate the key. If you don't have it on the S, you'll hear nothing). I don't know if the 68 has (had) a clutch switch or not, but if it does, you need to measure on both sides of that. I know on my 72 if the clutch is not all the way in nothing happens with the key.
