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I prefer to start looking at the simplest things first. They can be most likely to fail. Check the radiator cap under pressure. A weak spring inside the cap the will cause coolant loss through the overflow or expansion tank. Caps must seal around the top lip on the radiator neck and hold vacuum as well, otherwise coolant will never be recovered from the overflow tank. If the system can’t hold pressure, coolant will boil in the cylinder head and next to the cylinder walls, forming vapor bubbles, and the engine will quickly overheat.
I was at a Corvette Club of Ontario engine cooling systems workshop last Sat with Ray Bohacz sponsored by Evans. He ageed with the above post and start with the simple things first. Check the pressure release cap, instal a high quality thermostat eg. Stewart, check hoses and check the state of your antifreeze - not whether it is full but use a test strip to make sure that it is still good. He talked about the difference btn todays waterpumps and mktg hype many use re: high flow. If you do not have an IR heat reading gun get one. After the session I'll be replacing the current 50/50 (antifreeze/water) with the Evans which uses no water. We also now know what to look for in a good radiator and unlike somethings in life the bigger is not always better
Of course sometimes I can outsmart myself. On first startup with the new 385 I installed a brand new 18lb vented radiator cap so I could burp the system and reduce the chance of overheating with my new power plant.
That was the first time I ever had a leak at the heater core. In retrospect, maybe the 18lb cap wasn't the brightest idea.
The efan is 18inch and it is mounted on the outside of radiator. Should the fan be blowing on the engine or pulling the hot air towards to front of the car
cooling air should always come from the front of the car via grill or underneath as our C3s do, through the radiator to the engine hopefully helping cool the exhaust and the exiting the vents.
Hmmm. I've heard if you install a DeWitt's radiator, no matter what the problem is, it will cure the overheating issues, airflow or fan issues be d*mned. I can't personally confirm this, but that's what the buzz around here says
Of course you can't confirm it, you have no experience with a DeWitt. Plain truth is an aluminum radiator has more fins per inch than a brass radiator and cools better, DeWitt's seems to have it figured out, call them up they're happy to school you.
Confirm the lower radiator hose has a coil spring in it. The water pump can and will suck the lower hose closed, that's what the spring prevents.
Wouldn't be the first time a lower hose was shipped without one.
Someone has already mentioned, check the simple stuff first.
Confirm the lower radiator hose has a coil spring in it. The water pump can and will suck the lower hose closed, that's what the spring prevents.
Wouldn't be the first time a lower hose was shipped without one.
Someone has already mentioned, check the simple stuff first.
How is it these old threads appear at the top of the pile as though they are new?
OP ML
this is how to stop it ... read this thread ... in the last year or so the forum began this "related thread/topic" feature that scrolls right at bottom...
... you'll be looking at a current thread & without much notice ... you'll be into something ten years old.
read the thread ... then change a few settings ... and it won't trick you into this anymore.
They dont, the website has related threads at the bottom of the existing threads and if you arent paying attention when scrolling you will not see that is listed as related thread and usually an older post. You can disable this option in your user CP options.