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That's a very desirable block with "2482" main caps, those are nodular versus run-of-the-mill cast on most.
If piston-to-wall clearance is more than you want, you can pick up a thou or two with coatings. This will help reduce clearance as well as wear.
Jim, are you really running .028 quench on that big bore engine of yours? I knew you liked 'em tight (to keep the rods from stretching IIRC, LOL), but that's way close.
Yes, looked in to crate motors but 4K min is not in the budget right now. My plan is to get the #'s matching motor back together and running with original heads and maybe a solid cam. Keep it stock looking. I figure I can get this done for around 2K. Then when i have some funds saved I will take another newer 350 roller block I have in the garage and build a stroker. Priority 1 is to get this car on the road by spring. Thanks for all the input!!
Do any of you have specs on the original L46 pistons? Trying to figure out the weight of them and determine if the new pistons and rod combo will require the crank to be re-balanced???
Yes, looked in to crate motors but 4K min is not in the budget right now. My plan is to get the #'s matching motor back together and running with original heads and maybe a solid cam. Keep it stock looking. I figure I can get this done for around 2K. Then when i have some funds saved I will take another newer 350 roller block I have in the garage and build a stroker. Priority 1 is to get this car on the road by spring. Thanks for all the input!!
Do any of you have specs on the original L46 pistons? Trying to figure out the weight of them and determine if the new pistons and rod combo will require the crank to be re-balanced???
O.k. I was figuring on about 3k for your rebuild, still if you have roller block why not just build that now instead of putting 2k into a 60 over 45 yr old block?
I realize the value of original motor but at end of day you still have it to keep with car to retain value or rebuild later.
I will look into specs on my Pistons to see if I can help with balance nos.
Good luck
Get a Dial Bore indicator and see where you really are.....
My machine shop does a nice "10 pass" hone with a Sunnen and plates if the bores are not far out. This breaks in nicely.
427Hotrods recommendations for piston to wall are on the money....
Definitely zero deck the block.......
Replacing cam bearings is also a good recommendation......
The machine shop will have to replace your cam bearings because hot tanking the block destroys them. Having the same machine shop hone or ball hone the cylinders is very cheap and if you are using the old Pistons they will make everything uniform. If everything is within spec, new rings and bearing is all that's needed. If you are at the end of the spec scale with the Pistons, you can get file fit rings or total seal rings to get that proper fit and longevity back.
Your next headache is cam specs and compression as many guys are talking Quench with you. It makes a difference and it all starts with the compression. Everything else will be chosen based off that and of coarse your intended rpm range. If budget allows a nice set of heads makes all the difference but let's get the short block done first!
Jim, are you really running .028 quench on that big bore engine of yours? I knew you liked 'em tight (to keep the rods from stretching IIRC, LOL), but that's way close.
Well....my deck is whacked pretty good...my pistons stick OUT of the block .009". When it was N/A I ran .037" head gaskets for .028" total clearance.
The current Turbo version is using some .041" MLS gaskets...so I'm WAY out to .032" now!
If you look closely, you can see how the top area is pretty clean and the bottom side is a touch shiny from a 'lil kissin' going on! Right where I like it....bearings always look like new...and this thing regularly goes into the 7500-7800 RPM range.
No problems on 93 octane with 11.56 compression on the street, track or dyno.
Get a Dial Bore indicator and see where you really are.....
My machine shop does a nice "10 pass" hone with a Sunnen and plates if the bores are not far out. This breaks in nicely.
427Hotrods recommendations for piston to wall are on the money....
Definitely zero deck the block.......
Replacing cam bearings is also a good recommendation......
Jebby
How can I zero deck the block and keep the VIN # intact??
That's how they do it...they stop it manually early and leave that portion. Depends on machine...many are a large circular cutter so it's tougher.
If it's reasonably close, you can juggle pistons/rods to make up a few .000" usually or get the right pistons that put it closer and use thin gaskets. For a build like this it's not the end of the world if it's in the ballpark. Tighter is better, but I wouldn't lose any sleep if it ended up in the .045" range for sure.
JIM
Last edited by 427Hotrod; Nov 4, 2015 at 02:38 PM.
Well....my deck is whacked pretty good...my pistons stick OUT of the block .009". When it was N/A I ran .037" head gaskets for .028" total clearance.
The current Turbo version is using some .041" MLS gaskets...so I'm WAY out to .032" now!
If you look closely, you can see how the top area is pretty clean and the bottom side is a touch shiny from a 'lil kissin' going on! Right where I like it....bearings always look like new...and this thing regularly goes into the 7500-7800 RPM range.
No problems on 93 octane with 11.56 compression on the street, track or dyno.
JIM
Hey Jim, it looks like you are leaving a lot on the table by not getting flame travel across all the piston thus the clean spots. It is difficult with a dome piston and zero quench.
I assume they cut the deck with a large fly cutter. The diameter of the cutter has to be large enough to machine the whole deck surface. At the end of the pass, its impossible to stop prior to the vin # and still have the surface finished enough to clear the heads....
With a factory spec .100" forged dome piston (11.0:1 CR) with 1.560 CH + 5.7 rods and 3.48 stroke, the piston top should end up at 9.0". Factory deck height is 9.025" plus a .015 head gasket puts me right at .040 quench.
My other option is to go with forged Wiseco pistons flat top (10.5:1 CR) that have an extra .015" (1.575") CH. This would allow me to use a little thicker gasket (.025 - .030) to achieve a .035-.040 quench.
Is there any advantage to using a thicker gasket on a deck that may not be perfect vs. a dome or flat top forged piston???