If you want the 195, ask for a line code THM p/n 269. Mike

 

The OP is not always wrong, but does tend to take his own narrow experience, of his own individual vehicle, and claim that it applies broadly to ALL vehicles....Just plain wrong most of the time. What works or not works on his car doesn't mean it is the same for mine. Example - his stand on double pumper carbs. He can't get them to run correctly and I can. He then claims that only race cars can run a double pumper - it is not a fact, it is his opinion. He says there are no fail open thermostats. Look at this
http://www.motoradusa.com/fail-safe.aspx He just doesn't have any knowledge of them, and makes blanket statements.

What kills me is people who don't know any better, thank him for mis-information, then go off and waste time and money. When he gives good info, all is good, but posts like this one.........

 

I work in the marine industry as an engineer also...I'm very familiar with the equipment you're referring to and you're comparing apples and oranges. The process you're describing REQUIRES a phase change in the water to occur to make water while an automobile cooling system is trying to AVOID a phase change to prevent "boil over". To get the phase change, you must input a lot of heat/BTUs before the water flashes off to steam...increase the flow rate and the water never increases in temperature sufficiently to make that phase change from a liquid to a gas.

Actually, what you describe is exactly what happens in the engine block when you slow flow too much...the water in the block gains too much heat and the temperature gets high enough to "boil over".

PS Many people not familiar with thermodynamics confuse the two engineering terms of heat and temperature...they are NOT the same thing. Heat is typically measured in BTUs and temperature is measured in C°/F°.

 

Plus in practise you are bound to run into cavitation issues at these high flow rates. Sure, you could increase the head pressure, but what then? You would have to increase the wall thickness of the cooling system components and increase weight. Why not just run a bigger radiator?

 

This is a very hard concept for people to understand but very important when dealing with heat transfer.

Neal

 

These old time information programs are still pretty awesome.

 

OK, you all maybe not notice it up north, or in lesser climates than 100f and 100% humidity, as in Florida......BUT......

I moved here from the Wash DC region and been into car hobby for some 60 years now....age 71.....moved here in '97 up in the 'northlands' was not an issue with water flow and engine over heating as the ambient temps were very seldom over 90f

BUT some years ago I noted one thing....and THAT was the narrowing of the water flow neck of various thermostats.....sure the thing would open at rated temps....proved that on a pot of water and my FLUKE meter and temp probe backed up with another instrument.....

trick IS even though the thing would OPEN at say 180f.....the flow rate was restricted to the 195 diameter some years ago....meaning the engine runs at 195++ depending on other thing, like radiator/ambient/fans/speeds/etc....I know this from personal observations in the parts houses over the years....

SO the solution is....drill holes to bypass the valve, on the stat skirt....

ALL this BS is because of the EPA and the .gov..... and so my solution is not purrrrrfect, but it works well enough....

yeh, in what passes for FLORIDA winters...it takes the engine some few more miles to warm up, BUT trick is....in summer I have the flow rate to keep the engine cool.....

I been through this toooo many times and am running a L98 engine with '89 F body radiator for V8 350 and Dual Spal fans sealed tight....

been all over this crap for some time with a IR digital gauge proven correct as well as the Fluke meter.....

SO I know first hand of what I speak, and OP is totally blown out of the water......

BECAUSE the stat makers reduced the flow rate of the stats....

WHICH maybe not make much of a difference if you have a DeWitts/similar radiator so over rated for most engines the reduced flow is not noticed.....I not getting into that, as no experience.....and not spending the $$$ to find out, no need to, MY solution works fine.....

 

Has anyone mentioned the myth of running your modern radial tires underinflated?

IBTL

 

Or the myth that automotive fans are typically asymmetrical so that they are out of balance so as to act as a rev limiter?

toobroketoretire, you are the living personification of the Dunning-Kruger effect.

 

I will respectfully disagree. Well somewhat that is. What You say about the change from water to steam is true, but I wasn't referring to that side of it, I was referring to the ability of the Heat to transfer from the Jacketwater side of the heat exchanger to the saltwater side. And to be able to look in and see the salt water boil. Its the only condition that I have ever been able to see the difference flow make instantly.
When we commission a new Diesel Engine we can always figure that the supplied engine driven water pump will flow more than the cooling system can use. So we take some machined donuts with us to install in the water line to slow down the flow. We generally strive for a 30 deg temperature change for the water going in and out. In other words if we want the Engine to run at 180 then we want the water to be no more than 150 leaving the Heat Exchanger. If the temp is 180 in and 170 out we would slow the flow down until we get the 30 deg drop.
Generally these engines have an Electric emergency pump that can be switched on if the mechanical driven pump fails. When an engine overheats it human nature to switch on the extra pump and cool it down. One only has to wait a minute or so to find out things have taken a turn for the worse.

 

Please provide your definition of "under inflated". To me under inflated means the tire doesn't contain enough air pressure to safely support the load that it is supporting and in the case of C3's 20 psi in a 255-60R15 is more than enough to support the 900 pounds that it is carrying. That's why quad tires only contain 2 psi or did you know that?

 

You need to learn to comprehend what I say in my posts rather than skipping over my posts then making a flash judgment. I said double pumpers were designed for track racing and that's why none of the manufacturers have ever put them onto street engines. The mechanical secondary carburetors are designed for 4000+ engine speeds as found in racing conditions, not for 550 to 5000 rpm use as found in street use.

And I never claimed nobody makes a fail-safe thermostat. I only said the Robert Shaw thermostats also fail closed just like the Stants. If you would replace your thermostat every two years like the manufacturers recommend they wouldn't fail. But when people think their thermostats will last a lifetime they WILL fail when the wax alloy pellet finally escapes it's confined space.

 

I started this post with the hope of educating the younger members who are new to tinkering on cars. C3 myths are just that; myths that got started many years ago by ignorant people to explain what they couldn't understand then other ignorant people perpetuate these myths by repeating them over and over; thinking that makes them true. No, a myth is still a myth regardless of how long it has been around.

But we are having fun, aren't we?

 

Some of you guys are so smart it makes my head hurt. That's not a slam, I mean it. My dumb *** is going back to oil change 101!

 

And clutch fans are made out-of-balance for two reasons. The uneven blade spacing makes them run quieter and the uneven blade spacing also limits how fast they can be driven by the viscous clutch.

 

A tire does so much more then support a specific load , your way wrong on this but I suspect you will argue until your last ..

Tires need to be filed to a minimum PSI which will be written on the sidewall. Not a PSI someone decides " Holds 900 pounds " My car is only 750 per corner does that mean I can run 18 or 15 pounds ??

Use GOOGLE it is your friend for correct answers

 

[QUOTE=toobroketoretire;1590842130]Every automotive forum has it's myths whether it be Mustang, Camaro, Chevelle, Corvette, or Mopar forums. These myths are started by ignorant people who believe these myths are true but with no evidence to back up their beliefs. Here's a list of the most common myths that you will often hear:

9. Distributors need to be shimmed to limit timing fluctuations. That's not true. When the engine is running the distributor gear and shaft are forced upward against the gear's thrust washer because of the helical gears and the torque needed to drive the oil pump. Timing fluctuations are caused by slop in the timing chain and upper distributor bushing; not distributor shaft end play.


Distributors are shimmed to reduce wear to the gears, which in turn will cause timing to fluctuate. Different intakes, different blocks, decking heads or block, etc. all has an impact on distributor height. Imagine just dropping in a new dizzy and cranking it down if the shaft is too long for the combination. Pretty dumb. Read this and stop making up your own myths:

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...6R7NwpRIqbNiFA

 

Thank you for your post, you have clearly demonstrated you are in the group of people not familiar with thermodynamics and totally confused about the difference between heat and temperature. By machined donut, I assume you're talking about an orifice...so you install the orifice while the ship is in seawater with a temperature of 35°F in Maine then expect to see the same 30°F drop across the heat exchanger when the ship goes to the Persian Gulf with 85°F seawater temps. Not going to happen in any world...

 

Clutch fans are not made out-of-balance and the uneven spacing is not what limits how fast they can be driven by the viscous clutch. The viscous clutch only transmits so much HP so the RPM limit is determined by the RPM at which the fan draws that amount of HP.

 

I really don't know why I keep reading this guy's threads. I guess I should be "toodumbtoknowbetter".