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Old Nov 6, 2015 | 05:16 PM
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From: Quitman MS
Default Electric Vacuum Pump

Guys...input needed: Taking out the L48 in my '79 and installing a 383. I would like to run a Be Cool or DeWitts dual electric fan, an electric vacuum pump and get rid of the charcoal canister system if possible. If I go w/an electric vac pump, is there a high/low vacuum number i need to run? From what I understand, the brake booster, headlights, environmental controls, kickdown for the TH350 all run off vacuum. What should I be concerned with going into this? Btw...new carb will be added as well. Thanks for the inputs...always very helpful.
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Old Nov 6, 2015 | 05:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Tibbs
Guys...input needed: Taking out the L48 in my '79 and installing a 383. I would like to run a Be Cool or DeWitts dual electric fan, an electric vacuum pump and get rid of the charcoal canister system if possible. If I go w/an electric vac pump, is there a high/low vacuum number i need to run? From what I understand, the brake booster, headlights, environmental controls, kickdown for the TH350 all run off vacuum. What should I be concerned with going into this? Btw...new carb will be added as well. Thanks for the inputs...always very helpful.

A 383" will produce just as much vacuum as your L-48 unless it has a killer camshaft in it.
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Old Nov 6, 2015 | 10:40 PM
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Why are you getting rid of the charcoal canister system? It's a good system. Keeps your gas tank at an even pressure with the ambient environment and prevents gas vapor from entering the air (HC emissions). Zero impact on performance.

toobroke's comment on vacuum vs cam is correct. How crazy of a cam are you doing? I know people running cams in the low 230s on a 108LSA and no need for a vacuum booster.

Are you putting good heads on it? If not, stay away from crazy cams anyways.
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Old Nov 7, 2015 | 11:05 AM
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I would have to agree. You're not going to need a vacuum pump with any reasonable 383 build with a dual plane intake. Single plane and you can loose considerable vacuum.
My 350 has 219*@.050 with a 108 LSA and still makes 14" of vacuum at 800 RPM at 4000 feet.
Vacuum, or lack there of is directly related to the overlap.

To figure your overlap take your advertised duration on the intake and exhaust add them together.
divide that figure by 4
subtract the LSA (lobe separation angle) from that answer
Multiply it by two. Your answer is the number of degrees of overlap.
IE.
My cam: 270+270=540

540/4=135

135-108=27

27x2=54

54* of overlap.

Hot street driven cars lie in the 50* to 70* range of overlap.

Last edited by REELAV8R; Nov 7, 2015 at 11:06 AM.
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Old Nov 7, 2015 | 06:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Tibbs
Guys...input needed: Taking out the L48 in my '79 and installing a 383. I would like to run a Be Cool or DeWitts dual electric fan, an electric vacuum pump and get rid of the charcoal canister system if possible. If I go w/an electric vac pump, is there a high/low vacuum number i need to run? From what I understand, the brake booster, headlights, environmental controls, kickdown for the TH350 all run off vacuum. What should I be concerned with going into this? Btw...new carb will be added as well. Thanks for the inputs...always very helpful.
Wait til you get it up and running, see what vacuum you have available. Usually 10-12 inches vacuum will suffice for everything.. If you have a big duration cam, like me, mine is .571 lift and a 254* Duration, you will not have vacuum to run ANYTHING.. I installed an Electric Vac Pump with my Stroker in 08, constant 18 inches of vacuum for all accessories .. It is a little noisey on start up, but after that you never hear it cycle..
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Old Nov 7, 2015 | 07:38 PM
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Honestly, like the others have said, unless your running a high cam (from what I heard, over .500 lift) then you are good. I'm running a big cam, a Howard's .515/.525 roller and though about vacuum. But instead of buy a electric vacuum pump I'm modding a hydroboost system. Better brakes, less vacuum loss, and cleaner engine bay. So if you really think a pump is good, think about a hydroboost instead.
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Old Nov 7, 2015 | 08:28 PM
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Originally Posted by atthemattin
Honestly, like the others have said, unless your running a high cam (from what I heard, over .500 lift) then you are good. I'm running a big cam, a Howard's .515/.525 roller and though about vacuum. But instead of buy a electric vacuum pump I'm modding a hydroboost system. Better brakes, less vacuum loss, and cleaner engine bay. So if you really think a pump is good, think about a hydroboost instead.
I'm running .549" of lift. Not the major factor for vacuum, overlap is the major factor.
Increasing lift will make the overlap triangle larger on a given cam if everything else remains the same.

The better flowing heads you get the less duration you will need to fill the cylinders. Not the biggest cc heads, best flowing, with appropriately sized intake runner.
Excessively long duration cams for a street driven car makes for a lousy driving experience.

OP, maybe we should ask, what is the intended use for the engine?

Last edited by REELAV8R; Nov 7, 2015 at 08:33 PM.
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Old Nov 7, 2015 | 09:05 PM
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Originally Posted by REELAV8R
Excessively long duration cams for a street driven car makes for a lousy driving experience.
Not necessarily..It depends on building the proper combination of engine components, matched with transmission and rear gear ratio.. mine is a pleasure to drive in traffic , on the Interstate or in a Qtr Mile grudge match. Did I mention I also have Air Conditioning ?
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Old Nov 8, 2015 | 12:35 AM
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Originally Posted by fishslayer143
Not necessarily..It depends on building the proper combination of engine components, matched with transmission and rear gear ratio.. mine is a pleasure to drive in traffic , on the Interstate or in a Qtr Mile grudge match. Did I mention I also have Air Conditioning ?
Then it's not excessive for the combo. That's the point.
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