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I've decided to go with side pipes on my 69 350/350. How do you guys re-work the rear panel to fill the rear tail pipes openings? Is there a seam? Do you "smooth" the whole area? If you smooth, then how do you have a removable panel........inquiring minds want to know.....
Hi 69,
As usual there are various ways to approach the rear panel… each having different appearances and costs.
The first way is to buy one of the reproduction rear valance panels available that fill the void on each side when the original under the car panel is removed. Although these panels are suposed to fit they often take a bit of massaging of the fiberglass on the panel and body to get a good fit prior to painting. $
Next option is to use the under-car exhaust valance and fill the gaps using fiberglass mat and resin and then paint… this often makes the panel so it can't be removed but some people like the no-seam look. $$
Lastly you can buy an original or reproduction side exhaust panel, and the necessary fiberglass flanges needed to fill in the voids left in the quarter panels when the exhaust bezels are removed. This requires bodywork and paint $$$
So it's up to you what you want the finished look to be and what you're willing to spend.
It depends to some degree also on what type of side exhaust you put on your car (69 style/ Hooker) as to which route you might take.
Regards,
Alan
This is a 71 with an original side-exhaust valance and filled gaps in the quarters. The seam is real and the valance is removable as it was originally.
Beautiful....since I do paint and body I think I'll make two half pieces on each side so it will still be a seam. I can use sheet metal and attach by the screw holes for the chrome trim....then fiberglass over the top of the sheet metal. That should make it pretty sturdy....
The first picture is a Ecklers lower panel where the seam follows the exhaust cutout. The quality of the glass work was crap and required quite a bit of work to fit correctly.
The second picture is the same panel but with the seam glassed in.
Awesome car...love how it sits right down on the tires.....it looks like if I glass in the whole section I can still reach the back of the lights etc....I really like that slick look. It would also be much easier that what I am planning.
Hi rp,
Wabco's pictures really show the various possibilities…. very nice looking car!
Regards,
Alan
Thanks Alan, I didn't like the way the seam followed the shape of the exhaust cutout. If it had been a straight line as in your picture then I wouldn't have glassed the seam.
Regards
Brad
Well like Alan mentioned there are a number of ways but I will add 1 more. I purchased a side exhaust panel on the forum. Removed all the paint. Laminated the ends of the valance to make a mold. Then I reversed the sides to obtain the attaching flanges and then used VPA to fill in the remaining part of the under exhaust.
ZIO
Awesome car...love how it sits right down on the tires.....it looks like if I glass in the whole section I can still reach the back of the lights etc....I really like that slick look. It would also be much easier that what I am planning.
What size tires are you running?
Thanks RP. Yes, you can still get to the back of the lights ok. I didn't glass the panel under the bumper, only the exhaust cutout section and the sections between the bumpers and License plate bezel.
The rear tires in the first picture are 275/40r18 on a 18x9.5 rim. In the second picture there 305/35r18 on a 18x11" rim. In the second picture the rear quarter panels have been replaced with 2" CIC flares.
Regards
Brad
Thanks RP. Yes, you can still get to the back of the lights ok. I didn't glass the panel under the bumper, only the exhaust cutout section and the sections between the bumpers and License plate bezel.
The rear tires in the first picture are 275/40r18 on a 18x9.5 rim. In the second picture there 305/35r18 on a 18x11" rim. In the second picture the rear quarter panels have been replaced with 2" CIC flares.
Regards
Brad
Can you give me more info in the 18x9.5 wheels? Offset etc. Do you have to have offset trailing arms. Did they have any issue rubbing?
The first picture is a Ecklers lower panel where the seam follows the exhaust cutout. The quality of the glass work was crap and required quite a bit of work to fit correctly.
The second picture is the same panel but with the seam glassed in.
Love the stance of your car. I know a lot of work was done to get it that way. Really looks great.
ZIO
Hi rp,
You asked about ACCESS with the valance bonded in place.
From what I've seen the bonded valance doesn't limit access. I think the only situation it causes is that when/if the body is being removed or replaced it takes some TIPPING of the body to get it to clear of the rear crossmember and tank. With a removable valance the body can be raised and lowered vertically.
Depending on the means you're using to lift or drop this may or may not cause a problem.
On a modified car the filled seam gives a very nice smooth appearance to that part of the body.
But I also like seeing cars with well done seams because I realize the effort it takes to achieve that.
Regards,
Alan
My goal is to have an "almost" original car....I think the straight seam gets me closer to that goal.......but I must say the smooth look is really cool......I'll have Hooker/Dougs side pipes but other than that we will be almost stock except for some internal engine modifications.
Rear Panel with side pipes
