I started a thread in the audio/electronics section but have yet to get a response so I thought I'd try here. I am rewiring and redoing the interior in my 78 and figured I would install a security system with keyless entry. Most of it is pretty straight forward, my 2 areas of difficulty is 1) where do I connect the keyless entry to and three where is the best place to tap into the parking lights? The stock alarm has never been activated since I got the car so I was wondering what if any relays can be cleared out of the center console area and is there a wire there that will flash the parking lights? Thanx

 

If the keyless entry system you have is similar to the one I installed in my '79, flashing the parking lights is a bit of a pain. Why? Because the system is designed to work with modern cars that generally do everything by providing a ground path to a control device (think chip or relay). In other words the lead you have for the lights will simply close to ground to momentarily activate the lights.

Your car operates the parking lights by providing +12V power to them via the headlight switch. Thus you have to install a relay and use the lead from your RKE system to provide ground to the relay coil. If you want to do this, the best way I see to do it is to carefully splice (cut insulation only to remove a 1/4" or so section of insulation, interweave and wrap new stranded wire into the exposed wire and then SOLDER) into the power from the TAIL fuse (18 gauge orange) between the fuse box and the headlamp switch. Run such to both the relay coil and the common switched terminal of the relay. Then carefully splice into the 18 gauge brown wire coming from the headlight switch and connect it to the normally open terminal of the relay. Then connect your lead from the RKE system to the other relay coil terminal. Note that some RKE systems allow you to program either ground (-12V) or power (+12V) to tie into other circuits in the car. Be CERTAIN yours is set for ground (typically the default). Note that you DO NOT CUT EITHER WIRE--you simply splice in using what is called a "Western Union Pigtail Splice" that you SOLDER.

Personally, I didn't find that worth the effort so I just did the horn "chirp" alert lead. To get it to work all you have to do is carefully splice into the 22 gauge black on the harness side of the "harmonica connector" that connects to the turn signal switch. This is simple because the circuit is just like what is used in modern cars--grounding the relay coil in the horn relay operates the horns.

The factory alarm system is extremely primitive by modern standards. It operates ONLY a DEDICATED horn located on the driver front fender liner below the brake master cylinder. The only things you could remove are a relay and flasher installed in the center console just ahead of the shifter. You could potentially use the factory alarm relay to power the parking lights by bringing the power I mentioned above to that location--otherwise there is no power for the parking lights already available there.

Presuming to intend to use the ignition kill feature pretty much standard with both aftermarket RKE and alarm systems and want to abandon the factory alarm, I suggest that the alarm relay is much better used as part of the ignition kill as it is conveniently located extremely close to the neutral safe starter switch also in the center console. If you have an automatic, the neutral safe starter switch is the most convenient place to tap in for the ignition kill component. You would need to verify that the alarm relay contacts are rated sufficiently for the ignition kill. (I used a new 30A rated relay for my ignition kill.) If you have a standard the clutch start switch (at the clutch) is the best place to tap in for ignition kill. In either case you break the yellow wire that leads from the neutral safe or clutch start switch and connect each side to across the normally closed contacts of the relay. Get your power for the relay coil from the courtesy (orange wire always hot) circuit and provide ground for the relay coil from the RKE/alarm system lead. Keep any additional wiring length to the least possible using 12 gauge minimum wire and soldered connections.

I don't understand your question of, "Where do I connect the keyless entry to?". If by "where" you mean "which circuit" I suggest using the CTSY (courtesy) circuit as it is constantly powered and can handle very small additional loads like a modern RKE/alarm system module. Do not however use that circuit for anything requiring more than an amp or two.

 

i guess my question on the keyless entry is do I tap into the system before the lock unlock switch or after, where in the power door lock harness should I splice into? Thank you

 

The RKE system has a double-pole, double-throw relay that acts much like a four-way switch in home lighting. In other words it installs between two three-way switches (the existing door lock switches) to provide a third switch point. RKE systems may vary but it should connect by cutting both the pink and purple wires that run directly between the two switches linking the two common relay contacts in each switch. You then have four wires from your RKE module that must be connected exactly as specified in the instructions.

If the RKE system you bought is the same or similar to mine (sorry I'm traveling away on business and don't remember my brand) it comes with woefully inadequate instructions by design as they really want to to contact a professional installer for them to get a hefty commission. If you search on the web (their website and other places) you can find better instructions. The instructions may not match your exact model number but provided they are from the same manufacturer and the wiring colors for the door lock circuit are the same it will work if you wire the circuit exactly as specified. I keep stressing exactly because this type of circuit will only work properlhy with ALL of the wiring done in one and only one manner--no connections are interchangeable!!!!

 

Mike you have been a huge help thank you

 

You are welcome and no problem.

If you do set up the ignition kill component of the system be aware that the relay coil will be energized when the alarm is armed (car sitting). Be certain to get a relay rated for continuous use (most are). Also be aware that this will add a small but not negligible draw on the battery. A car clock and/or modern stereo head unit may draw about 8 milliamps/hour each while your typical automotive relay coil will draw 50-80 milliamps/hour.

Combined with the draw from your new RKE/alarm module itself plus clock, plus modern (I'm guessing) radio your car with alarm system armed will be drawing significantly more power than even the most gadget filled modern cars. No problem at all for a vehicle that sees frequent use but that's not really common for our old 'vettes Modern factory alarms often still use mechanical relays but of the bi-stable impulse latching variety (no current draw in either position) that require quite sophisticated circuitry.

Again I'm not certain of the RKE/alarm system you bought but I believe that most are quite similar. The point of all this is that if you use the ignition kill feature be aware of the current draw when it is armed by locking with the remote. No problem for a few days, but don't get in the habit of locking it with the remote when it is in a secure location to be parked for weeks. There are simple circuits that can reduce the holding current of a relay to nearly nothing but sadly they are extremely sensitive to the sort of voltage drop that will occur when the alarm system is triggered thus rendering arguably the most effective aspect of the system (ignition kill) ineffective.

 

The system I am installing is a Compustar CS720A. It is a basic system with:keyless entry, trunk release or auxiliary port, impact sensor, door sensor, and dome light monitor. It does have the ignition kill I am guessing the relays that came with the kit is for that. I took out the clock from the dash and I am running an oil temp gauge instead, the radio has a clock. I have installed many audio systems and have wired my share of dashes so I bought the system fully confident of my ability to install it, my confidence was shaken as I tried to decipher the instruction manual. I am just going to go system by system ( power up the box, wire to door contact pins, I think I have the door locks figured out with your help) I'll try to get as much of it as functional as I can. Thanx again. I am going to see if I can find a way to flash the lights I just think it would be a nice feature but if that turns out to be too involved or expensive I will live without it. Any other tips or advice is always appreciated.