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One day after I replaced my differential support bracket nut that had fallen off, I now have some kind of major failure in the drivetrain.
As I was driving I could hear a dry metallic spining sound but couldnt figure out from where. Then the car basically gave up on me by not going into gear so I pulled over 2 blocks from home. I put in reverse which worked fine. Then into first which seemed to barely work and just kept it in first all the way to my garage.
Got it up on blocks for inspection but saw nothing from the outside/underside. Started engine and ran through gears with wheels hanging and spinning and all gears seemed to work fine. So problem is while under load which I havent tried to repeat yet.
Thats why I am asking now for ideas on how to tell or test if tranny or diff is the culprit? All ideas appreciated.
Plan to check both fluid tonight and see if one is dry.
I will set down off blocks and try and go back and forth in driveway and see if I can isolate problem.
Ah, so it IS a manual transmission. When you said it barely moved in 1st gear were you saying the engine was revving but you were hardly moving? If so that would indicate a slipping clutch. Make sure your clutch pedal has at least an inch of free play before it gets stiff. If it doesn't have any free play it could slip something awful; especially in the higher gears.
Tranny fluid magnet plug had glob of puddy like hardened oil with metal flakes mixed in so not too good there. Tranny fluid level was not to the hole but maybe 1.5 inch below hole which is definitely a bit low.
So wasn't able to check back and forth yet. Try tomorrow.
Okay, you have found the problem. A TH350 only needs to lose a single pint of fluid to begin having shifting trouble and at one quart low it'll start slipping. Fill the transmission to the full mark and it'll start shifting normally again.
? Oh yeah, its 2B2R . Its been established the tranny is a standard, did you already forget? LOL!
Surfer, the oil went somewhere, do you see any evidence it went out the front seal and maybe oiled the clutch down?
You are the same person I told about the bushing problem. You only installed a nut with no bushing and no washer. Are you sure the nose of the differential isn't moving due to the missing bushing?
The big doughnut rubber bushing is still sandwhiched between the bracket and frame. I only had to improvise the outer rubber bushing or washer which actually now I'm not even sure what purpose it had.
In either case I see the bracket not going anywhere and shouldnt be a problem now. When it was loose it might have caused the damage I am seeing. Still not sure yet.
Filled tranny up and only used half a bottle of fluid so not as bad as I thought. Drove back and forth in reverse and first in my driveway with no issues. Guess I need to go back on the street and try and duplicate now.
Took test drive and immediately noticed dry rotational sound with spotty shifter issues.
So got tranny on the ground in less than 3 hours which is pretty good for me. Sure enough first thing was a little sleeve was still attached to input shaft of tranny. I'm like whats that? It was part of the TO bearing which had disinagrated into 3 seperate pieces.
This actually upsets me since I went out of my way to buy super HD TO bearing and this thing was no better than regular stock.
So could use some advice on really good TO brgs that last. THX
Good news is only TO brg instead of $1200 tranny rebuild.
Even a HD bearing will go if the clutch isn't set up correctly or if you ride the clutch. Stopping at lights and holding down the clutch the whole time is the worst thing you can do. The second worst thing is not having enough free play. That's that inch of movement before the pedal starts to disengage the clutch. Without that, the bearing just keeps spinning and burns up in 5000 miles. Simple NAPA parts hold up well for the price.