On my 77, I was careful to measure my original tie rods and I transferred that measurement to my new ones. The problem is I forgot which one was drivers and which ones is passengers. One is longer than the other and I don't remember which one is which. Would I be able to tell by the fact that they are right hand and left hand threads? I need to get the car alignment close enough to be able to drive it a few miles. If not... I will need to get it flatbedded for alignment.

 

center the steering wheel and use a tape measure to roughly get zero toe-in. This should be good enough to get you to the shop.

 

I always put the left hand threads on the left side and the right hand threads on the right side to make the final toe-in adjustment a LOT easier. Do as I suggest and you'll find out why when you go to adjust your toe-in.

 

From the factory, the left hand threads are always at the steering arm and the right hand threads are always at the relay rod.

This paper explains the reasoning.

http://jimshea.corvettefaq.com/?p=1021

Also the production adjuster tubes had a notch machined into the end with the LH threads.

Jim

 

If you do this to your own car that's bad enough but don't post bad information.
It takes exactly the same amount of time to do the job correctly and the alignment shop won't ask 'is Bubba your mechanic'?

 

Since each tie-rod adjustment sleeve is right and left-hand threaded (so you can turm them and actually get adjustment) and the thread direction on the two steering links is FIXED, it is impossible to have the parts installed incorrectly/reversed.

 

Am I missing something? It shouldn't matter if you install them 'backwards', as long as you measured/transferred the lengths correctly. If you install the right on the left, and vice-versa, your toe should still be the same, but the steering wheel might not be centered - not a big deal for a short drive to an alignment shop?

 

 

GENERALLY, but not always, the inner tie rods have the grease fitting facing the center of the car, while the outer tie rods have the grease fitting pointing downward (as installed on the car).

 

Yes! The tie rod ends cam be swapped and it will work just fine but to me it's pride of workmanship.
A good alignment shop would put everything back in properly and charge extra to do it.

Jim Shea took the time to post the proper way to do it so why not?

To center a steering wheel you turn one sleeve in and the other out.

 

As far as setting a new part to "the same measurement" as the old one, it is important on HOW you make the measurement. For tie-rods, the only distance that matters is from the center of the joint base to the end of the adjustment sleeve (in which the tie rod is engaged)...as long as you haven't replaced nor adjusted that sleeve.

Counting the number of threads engaged is not the same, as variations from one piece to the next can be quite different.

 

Peterbuilt, you are not correct. If the tie rod assemblies are assembled to the car correctly, (i.e. tie rod ends with LH threads are the outers and attach to the steering arms), you need to rotate the adjuster sleeves IN THE SAME DIRECTION and the SAME AMOUNT in order to center the steering wheel. Turning them in the same direction and rotating the sleeves the exact same amount will change the centering of the steering gear (and the steering column) but will not change your front wheel toe setting.

Now, what happens if you mix your tie rod assemblies and end up with a LH treaded outer tie rod end at one steering arm and a RH threaded outer tie rod end at the other steering arm. Now, you must rotate the adjuster sleeves in opposite directions (the exact same amount) in order to attain the same centering as above.

Most GM vehicles have inner and outer tie rod end assemblies that are visually different. Corvettes are the exception. On Corvette there are four tie rod ends that are exactly the same (i.e. same castings, same Zerk fittings, same ball studs, etc) all the same except for the machined LH and RH threads.

Jim

 

Take a look at the sketch at the top of this picture. It probably explains rotating the adjuster tube a lot easier than my verbal description in the previous posting.


Jim

 

Back to Jgcable's original problem - he removed the tie rods, put the new ones together matching the ones he removed, but now doesn't remember which one goes on the right vs left, and was worried about having the get it towed to the alignment shop. Even if he puts the right on the left, and vice-versa, it won't affect his alignment. As long as he makes sure that the left handed threads are the outers, he should be good to go...

 

I apologize for posting WRONG information,
Follow Jim Shea's advise and turn both sleeves the same way to center the steering wheel.

 

Here is the latest pic of my front end. New or rebuilt everything.

 

jg- looks really nice. I just finished a complete rebuild also. I did not have the pretty pink bushings for the sway bar, so mine is just plain Jane black. Question- how did you get the rubber bottoming bumper for the upper A arm installed? I tried silicone and soapy water to get the little conical tab thru the hole on the frame. I finally gave up, cut the tab off and used Permatex super glue for rubber and glued it in place. Let the A-arm down to press it in place overnight and then I could not even get it to budge. It should last a while, I hope. RA

 

I used a screwdriver. First I put some ArmorAll on the little nub. I then pushed it into the hole starting one side only. The side that was still sticking out I pushed it in with a screwdriver while twisting the bumper around and they popped right in.

 

One thing I wanted to mention was about the mounting tabs on the KYB shocks. They are really short. The factory stock shocks had plenty of "slot" for the mounting bolts to grab onto. The KYB shocks had shorter lower tabs so the screws are barely into the slots. I added some larger washers to be on the safe side.

 

jg- I tried the screwdriver method and could not get it to work. When I pushed on the second side that was sticking out, the first side popped back out again. I must have a defective screwdriver. Or maybe I'm defective.