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Holley Sniper new comp for FiTech

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Old Jan 19, 2017 | 09:49 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by gdh
Another Sniper review and FiTech comparison by former FiTech owner:

http://www.chevelles.com/forums/89-e...ed-fitech.html
That is my thread. It has plenty of pictures to compare, and some honest straightforward (non-sponsored, non-infomercial) feedback from an average Joe, an owner of both a Fitech GoEFI4 and a Holley Sniper setup.

Thanks for linking it. There's several Holley Sniper and Fitech EFI threads on that site. Please all feel free to contribute, read up, join up, or even just lurk, and learn...lol

To add my recent opinions/experiences to it...

Holley Customer Service is great. They have their own forum, and they actually respond to you there, via email, or even by phone...

Fitech Customer Service, for lack of a better description, just flat out sucks...They regularly jerk people around, pass bad info, and are very inconsistent with their advice and tech help...Not to mention, they literally stole most of the tech that us Fitech buyers/users found out for ourselves, and shared on the Chevelle forum...
Bottom Line: WE did their R&D, for free. I also was the chump who got to figure out the issues with their Fuel Command Center...but that's another gripe, for another day...and a part I would never recommend to anyone. Not worth the risk, nor the headaches.

Anyway, I had 2 minor issues since October when I installed it. IT, being the Holley Sniper. One was a problem running timing control, and the other was a defective wideband sensor, which they replaced, no questions asked...

The Holley seems to easily learn, and does so much faster than the Fitech, from what I have experienced.

The Holley has quite a few more options than the equally priced Fitech...Nitrous control, Launch Control, 2 step, AC control, ability to run aftermarket digital gauges, etc...The Fitech can do some of those things, but you'd need a more expensive version, anywhere from $200-$300 more...

The Holley touch screen, absolutely blows away the Fitech version. The Fitech isn't even in the same zip code, IMO. The Fitech handheld actually was internally shorted after 9 months on my car, randomly keeping it from starting, and took 5 weeks to be replaced...which was also when I was 100% done with Fitech, for what it's worth...

My car, a weekend toy, big block 71 Chevelle, had the Fitech on there, and learned, and been dialed-in/tweaked on for a total of 10 months...The best ever ET/MPH was 11.72@114.75.

With just a mere 2 days of cruising around, learning, (and ZERO tweaking) the Sniper, 1st trip to the track (2 weeks later) ran an 11.51@116...

Also, not a huge deal, but it is when you are "almost done" your EFI conversion, and have to run to the speed shop, or parts store, looking for those last couple things...The Holley Sniper includes them all...

Fitech requires, but does not include, a 5/16" to 1/4" air cleaner stud adapter.
Holley includes a regular old 1/4" stud, like most every carb in the world, and it, uses...

Fitech requires, but doesn't include, any sort of throttle linkage bracketry.
Holley includes throttle bracket, and kickdown bracket.

Holley also includes a Coil Driver, that you would use if you wanted to run Timing Control, but not run an MSD/Crane ignition box.

I do like the fact that the Fitech handheld can be unplugged inside of the car, where the Holley is hardwired at the handheld, and can only be unplugged at the throttle body connection.

Fitech only grants you access to their laptop tuning software with the more expensive units.

Holley will use their EFI software, and it's more fine tuneable abilities, and it is free with the Sniper. We'll just need to buy the adapter...although it has not been released to the public yet.

I did have to replace the supplied Coolant Temperature Sensor with one sourced locally. The Holley supplied one was reading 15-20 degrees too low, and not allowing the computer to stay in "LEARN MODE". It needs to be able to stay above 160 degrees, in order to LEARN...Fitechs also have the same issue...the sensors are hit or miss...probably a Chinese part problem...

Overall, I am very glad to have made the change. Dollar for Dollar, it is a No Brainer on which one to use...

Last edited by rel3rd; Jan 19, 2017 at 10:02 AM.
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Old Jan 19, 2017 | 12:41 PM
  #42  
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Awesome......my 82' 454 pickup build is sooooo getting one of these!!!!

My own Vette......ummmmm, no.
I love technology but the Vette needs to stay old school

EDIT: I just read the instructions for this and it has Timing Control too! This is excellent as the truck is getting full MSD ignition......I am getting somewhat excited about this! The peanut port 454 that I am building will love this setup......instant MONSTER torque! This truck is going to be a RIP!



Jebby
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Last edited by Jebbysan; Jan 19, 2017 at 12:58 PM.
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Old Jan 19, 2017 | 02:12 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by Jebbysan

EDIT: I just read the instructions for this and it has Timing Control too! This is excellent as the truck is getting full MSD ignition......I am getting somewhat excited about this! The peanut port 454 that I am building will love this setup......instant MONSTER torque! This truck is going to be a RIP!

Jebby
I ran the Fitech minus the timing control, and the Holley without it until very recently. I noticed right away, that the idle is much smoother, and the acceleration is smoother.

FWIW, I tried 3 different times to use the timing control with my MSD 8361 distributor, and MSD 6425 Digital 6AL box...Everywhere, everyone, says you absolutely need to PHASE THE ROTOR...which I did....3 times and car ran horrible, stalling and backfiring...Tried it one last time, with rotor as is, and car runs fantastic...

I figured the car has always ran great, and has never had a so-called properly phased rotor since I built the engine 3.5 years ago, so why start "phasing it" now? Especially since it runs great...

Zero hesitation, zero hiccups at any speed, any rpm, any gear...

Street: (slow roll, 2nd gear, from a week ago)

https://youtu.be/vkvduDfnBaU

or Strip:

https://youtu.be/Z0GujnG2sDE

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Old Jan 19, 2017 | 02:21 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by rel3rd
I ran the Fitech minus the timing control, and the Holley without it until very recently. I noticed right away, that the idle is much smoother, and the acceleration is smoother.

FWIW, I tried 3 different times to use the timing control with my MSD 8361 distributor, and MSD 6425 Digital 6AL box...Everywhere, everyone, says you absolutely need to PHASE THE ROTOR...which I did....3 times and car ran horrible, stalling and backfiring...Tried it one last time, with rotor as is, and car runs fantastic...

I figured the car has always ran great, and has never had a so-called properly phased rotor since I built the engine 3.5 years ago, so why start "phasing it" now? Especially since it runs great...

Zero hesitation, zero hiccups at any speed, any rpm, any gear...

Street: (slow roll, 2nd gear, from a week ago)

https://youtu.be/vkvduDfnBaU

or Strip:

https://youtu.be/Z0GujnG2sDE

I will have to read it again but in the instructions they say to mark the balance at 15 degrees then phase the rotor at 15. Why?
0 is 0 as 15 is to 15........does anyone know why they would say this?
When we set up the first FP Meany stuff in the late 90's and early 00's, you put it at zero and leave it.......we "phased" rotor by drilling a hole in the cap and hitting it with a light.

Jebby

Jebby
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Old Jan 19, 2017 | 03:20 PM
  #45  
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Hi guys, love learning.

If a person has a car with an oldschool dizzy that uses vacuum advance with weights, is the sniper provisioned for updating to an electronic timing advance distributor that the computer in the sniper controls?


there was a post above that seemed to suggest this was not pissible.

then i just read a couple posts up saying that it can control timing.

ive never owned an old school car but would like to buy one and then put a sniper on it. could i pull the oldschool dizzy and put on an hei dizzy like my L98 c4 has and somehow have the sniper control timing electronically?

cheers. VT
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Old Jan 19, 2017 | 03:30 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by Jebbysan
I will have to read it again but in the instructions they say to mark the balance at 15 degrees then phase the rotor at 15. Why?
0 is 0 as 15 is to 15........does anyone know why they would say this?
When we set up the first FP Meany stuff in the late 90's and early 00's, you put it at zero and leave it.......we "phased" rotor by drilling a hole in the cap and hitting it with a light.

Jebby

Jebby
I dropped mine in, made sure it matched at IDLE, and then made sure it matched at 3500 or so, using a setting called INDUCTIVE DELAY, which they do NOT even mention needing to do...My timing on the handheld matches my balancer timing dead on... Using my test distributor cap, my rotor is about a half a rotor blade's width off, but definitely has no issues because of it. When it was phased exactly as they say it needs to be, using an adjustable rotor, it ran horrible. So now I have a $40 adjustable MSD rotor on the bench...

Originally Posted by VikingTrad3r
Hi guys, love learning.

If a person has a car with an oldschool dizzy that uses vacuum advance with weights, is the sniper provisioned for updating to an electronic timing advance distributor that the computer in the sniper controls?


there was a post above that seemed to suggest this was not pissible.

then i just read a couple posts up saying that it can control timing.

ive never owned an old school car but would like to buy one and then put a sniper on it. could i pull the oldschool dizzy and put on an hei dizzy like my L98 c4 has and somehow have the sniper control timing electronically?

cheers. VT
If you wish to use timing control, the Sniper is meant and designed to be used with either a LOCKED OUT MSD (a direct plug in), or a HOLLEY DUAL SYNC EFI distributor (direct plug in w/adapter). I actually ordered one, $425 + $25 adapter harness, well over a month ago, and after seeing it's expected ship date keep being delayed, (presently end of February, I believe) finally gave up and cancelled it. I then tried the MSD one more time, sans the rotor phase step...with perfect success.
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Old Jan 20, 2017 | 01:43 AM
  #47  
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Here is my write-up on the Sniper.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...r-install.html
Bee Jay
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Old Jan 20, 2017 | 05:37 AM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by rel3rd
I ran the Fitech minus the timing control, and the Holley without it until very recently. I noticed right away, that the idle is much smoother, and the acceleration is smoother.

FWIW, I tried 3 different times to use the timing control with my MSD 8361 distributor, and MSD 6425 Digital 6AL box...Everywhere, everyone, says you absolutely need to PHASE THE ROTOR...which I did....3 times and car ran horrible, stalling and backfiring...Tried it one last time, with rotor as is, and car runs fantastic...

I figured the car has always ran great, and has never had a so-called properly phased rotor since I built the engine 3.5 years ago, so why start "phasing it" now? Especially since it runs great...

Zero hesitation, zero hiccups at any speed, any rpm, any gear...

Street: (slow roll, 2nd gear, from a week ago)

https://youtu.be/vkvduDfnBaU

or Strip:

https://youtu.be/Z0GujnG2sDE

Wow......what are you running?

Jebby
Reply
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Old Jan 20, 2017 | 07:14 AM
  #49  
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rel3rd
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Originally Posted by Bee Jay
Here is my write-up on the Sniper.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...r-install.html
Bee Jay
Nice job sir.

Originally Posted by Jebbysan
Wow......what are you running?

Jebby
Disclaimer:
This is a 4200# (with me in it) weekend toy. It's far from a dedicated anything...not a race car, and surely not a gas miser, LOL.

It's a 439 BBC, Turbo 400 with 3200 stall, and 3.90 gears.

The run above was an 11.51@116 (1.60 sixty foot)
That was one of the last passes before I enabled and started using timing control. I believe it will go 11.40's the way it is now. I'll know soon enough. Just waiting for the track to open back up.

The car's been 11.31@117 with more gear (4.10's) and looser torque converter stall (4200rpm)

This is an 11.34@117 (I didn't like revving this high through the traps, which is why I swapped to 3.90 gears)


And for giggles, the car has been 11.75@115 with that old 4200+ stall converter, and very tame 3.08 gears...lol. I think this video was only 11.89, but different launch got me the untaped 11.75, and also took out the 3 year old torque converter...


I'm actually 99% sure I'll be running the 3.08's this year, as I try my luck at bracket racing. The 3.08's are just so much easier on the engine. As you can hear, I barely hit 3rd gear at the track, and with the looser converter, there's still plenty enough to still have fun on the street...

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