When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Well, I pulled the trigger and ordered a 200-4r from Monster Transmission, something I've been planning for quite some time now. It won't arrive for about a month, so I'm taking my time pulling the old TH350, and that has led to a few questions...
First, any suggestions to stop the flexplate/torque converter from rotating while trying to undo the converter bolts? One came out easily, but the others are very tight and the damn thing just wants to turn.
Second, can I just unbolt the driveshaft at the transmission yoke, or do I have to unbolt it at the diff as well?
And finally, any idea just how high I need to get the car on jackstands to slide the tranny underneath? Basically, what's the measurement to the top of the bellhousing with the tranny sitting on the ground?
As usual, thanks in advance guys!
Well, I pulled the trigger and ordered a 200-4r from Monster Transmission, something I've been planning for quite some time now. It won't arrive for about a month, so I'm taking my time pulling the old TH350, and that has led to a few questions...
First, any suggestions to stop the flexplate/torque converter from rotating while trying to undo the converter bolts? One came out easily, but the others are very tight and the damn thing just wants to turn.
Second, can I just unbolt the driveshaft at the transmission yoke, or do I have to unbolt it at the diff as well?
And finally, any idea just how high I need to get the car on jackstands to slide the tranny underneath? Basically, what's the measurement to the top of the bellhousing with the tranny sitting on the ground?
As usual, thanks in advance guys!
1
or maybe a prybar stuck in a hole to prevent the flywheel from moving in that direction.
2 I would remove the ds completely, it will make sure its not in your way,can wrap the ujoint cups on the shaft so they done get lost. Do you have to have the ds shortened for the new tranny?
Obivously high enough for the top of the tranny to clear the transmission, will vary on if you are using a tranny jack.
If you do not have the tool hold the crank balancer nut with a breaker bar. If you heat the bolts with some propane or map gas it will soften the thread locker they use and they will break loose.Hope it helps.
Chuck
Okay, now I did this at home with 4 jack stands 2 jacks and a bunch of wood blocks. My jack only goes up 17 or 18 inches max. So I could not lift the car high enough to put the trans on a jack and roll it under the car. I had to put the trans under the car and then put it on the jack. Here is how that went.
Used a wrench to hold the converter in place.
Put the trans on a towel and lifted the tail and angled it under the car.
Then used some framing studs as simple machines. Had to think back to third grade on this one.
Basically just lifted it up an inch or two at a time on one side using 1x4 spacers, then went to the other and lifted it up.
Yes, I made a transmission jack adapter out of plywood.
KaBlamo! it bolts right up.
And here is the best part of all! I left the mount bolts loose till I could verify they would align. They did perfectly. (Naturally there is a bolt under the crossmemeber)
Hope that helps. Its a great upgrade.
ps. to get the bolts out I used a little 2lb sledge and hit the wrench to break the bolts free. so instead of a steady pull it gets a one time tap like an impact.
Last edited by johnt365; Dec 13, 2015 at 01:17 PM.
I've removed the TH350 trans from my car, on jack stands, several times.
I always remove the driveshaft completely to get it out of the way.
The bottom of my frame rails is 15 inches above the floor. The top of the bellhousing is higher than that (I don't have it here to measure). When I lower the trans, I remove the converter, then slide the trans onto a piece of thick cardboard. Then I drag it to the side while lifting the tailshaft to lower the bellhousing to get under the frame. Its easy.
Last edited by BKbroiler; Dec 13, 2015 at 01:15 PM.
A couple other tips. if you're running 2 1/2" true dual exhaust, there's a good chance you'll have to put a crease in the left pipe or it will hit the trans pan lip. Also the bracket that holds the pipes centered in the cross member hole no longer fits.
Remove the fan so it doesn't crack the shroud as the engine tilts back.
Remove the distributor cap so it doesn't get cracked against the firewall.
After the trans was reinstalled I had a muffler shop install V-band clamps at the headers and rework the pipes in that area to allow the pan to be removed easily. If the trans needs come out I can remove those sections of pipe and not have to drop the whole system.
1 You can hold a flat screwdriver in the flexplate teeth and let it hit the starter nose or bell housing to get the converter bolts loose or tight.
2 There's plenty of room to unbolt the front of the driveshaft and zip tie it to the battery cable that runs in the tunnel above it.
My spare 2004R has a deep aluminum pan on it and the top of the trans is just under 18". The regular pan is 1 1/8" shorter than the deep.
I remove mine the exact same way.
One thing that has not been mentioned when you remove your drive shaft you have to universal joint caps that can fall off just wrap them with tape so they stay in place.
I use vice grips on the flex plate. Then as it rotates the vice grips hit the side of the trannie stopping the flex plate from further rotation. Then loosen the bolts.
Don't forget to unbolt and remove the filler tube before you drop it.
Pulling The Transmission...
Hope that helps. Its a great upgrade. 
