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Hi,
I was wondering if anyone has run into this problem or has any tips for me. I'm doing a frame off restoration and am working on fiberglass repairs, which I found a lot of good info throughout the forum. Although my driver floor plan seat belt mount is broken, I'm thinking someone tried to jack it up from there, and I'm not sure how to repair it. I tried heating it with a heat gun and bending it with a clamp, although it returns back to the original position.
First off that sure looks like a Rust Free clean Floor Pan. I'm not seeing what You are talking about as to what is bent. It must be the Steel Plate that surrounds the Seatbelt Nut. If so a Heat Gun would never get it hot enough. It looks as though its riveted in, I would drill out the Rivets and remove it. Once done it should be fairly straightforward to straighten. With so many reproduction parts available today the correct Rivets might be available along with the Plate.
I help members in the 'paint and body' section where on the Corvette Forum and I can not see what you are concerned about in your photo.
I see body damage...but I can not see or understand what you are trying to do with heat gun???
Your photos are not showing what you are describing....so...just 'saying' in the future....if you post a photo of damage....make sure the photo reflects what you can see. And if you have a doubt...then draw a line around it or to it or something to the effected area so we can see what you are seeing.
Sorry about that guys. I hope the below pics show it better. The seat belt 'bucket' is bent upwards in the inside where the fiberglass is cracked. I was guessing the metal bracket that is connected to the rocker is bent inward and was trying to find a way to bend it back.
Crack on the inside where it looks like that bracket is pushing the 'bucket' upward.
Guessing the 'rusty' bracket is bent and needs something done w/ it.
The bottom 'bucket' needs to be removed so the stress in the fiberglass can be relieved.
What year is your Corvette?
I know about the seat belt systems GM used...but the rusty pale on the side of the floor pan is kinda throwing me off. It looks like it is the design that uses the long steel rod being bolted in that location so the seat belt retractor mounted under the seat will allow the seat belt to be routed correctly.
I was afraid of that, the problem is that I can't figure out how to remove the rusty metal part that seems to be putting the pressure on with it on the stand since it appears to be welded or bolted to the rocker channels. Also, not sure how to work on it off the stand (another question I had for another day was how I was going to paint/de-rust the rocker channels)?
I was thinking more last night and maybe if I cut part way through it as high as I can go it will allow it to bend and hold in that position, then I can re-weld that line to get it back to its proper strength?? Sounds kinda iffy, so wasn't sure... I've been known to have some bad ideas.
It's a 75, its exactly what you are describing as far as the rod and retractor.
The NON rusty part that is on the bottom is held in by rivets or should be if my memory is correct.
AS for the rusty part on the side....try to take a good photo of it so I can see it and possible guide you in a procedure. All I can see it is from the side...which does no good.
PLEASE understand that I am trying to help you.....so all photos...even if you have to post several at different angles an a distance away for the area so I can have a perspective of what is going on GREATLY HELPS me. EVEN if you have to use the other side as a comparison.
If you car were in my shop...my head would be moving all around looking at this issue from different angles an comparing it to the other side so I can actually see where the problem is.
Actually found out one of the messages on the pics was too long, so here are the rest. The 1st 3 are of the bad/driver side, the following are the passenger/good side, and last tried to get both in the same pic.
The 1st one I think shows both bends, up top toward the wood and the "L" that goes under the bucket. They both seem a bit off, the bottom bend moreso. So, was thinking I'd cut horizontally part way through the steel on one or both bends to allow it to bend back, then re-weld the cut lines to re-strengthen it. Still hoping there is an easier/better way though.
THANK YOU---THANK YOU for the photos. They help me a lot.
I know I could fix this with no cutting or welding....and this is because I ASSUME that the floorpan is raised up like TeePee.
If you want to talk on the phone so I can tell you how I would do it....instead of me typing a long time for nothing....then PM me and I will give you my shop phone number and we can talk.
I am a bit concerned about that piece of wood I can see that may not be fitting flat against the underside of your rocker channel. It looks like it is a bit too wide.
ok, excuse me if I skipped the long discussion and only reacting to the last set of picture, so feel free to disregard if I'm out.
From those pic I'd drill the rivet and remove the metal plate, then proceed to repair the fiberglass.
Then test fit the metal plate and straighten it until it fit the fiberglass.
Reinstall with new rivets.
ok, excuse me if I skipped the long discussion and only reacting to the last set of picture, so feel free to disregard if I'm out.
From those pic I'd drill the rivet and remove the metal plate, then proceed to repair the fiberglass.
Then test fit the metal plate and straighten it until it fit the fiberglass.
Reinstall with new rivets.
You are excused..........but the bottom metal bucket plate that is riveted to the floor pan is not causing the problem. Even though it may need to come off and be riveted back in....the side metal plate is the problem and applying pressure to this area.
Restoration Help
..........but the bottom metal bucket plate that is riveted to the floor pan is not causing the problem. Even though it may need to come off and be riveted back in....the side metal plate is the problem and applying pressure to this area.