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Okay, I just got back from a 60 mile round trip in 20 degree weather and here's what I found: When I got to the valley below it was fast idling at 1200 rpm in PARK and continued fast idling the whole time I was down there. After I pulled the 10 mile long 6% grade coming home it was idling at its usual 750 rpm in PARK so the additional heat from pulling the steep grade made a big difference. But then I noticed another thing that may be the key to my problem................my #3310 Holley was ice cold!
I'm running an Air Gap intake and I also have ram air so between the cooler intake manifold and the ice cold air going into my carburetor the choke housing just can't stay warm enough. My choke will come off when its in my garage with the hood open but the moment I close the hood and take it for a spin the choke will partially reengage.
Now I'm in the process of heating a big blob of A/C putty and I'll pound it into a flat disc shape about 3/8" thick then form it around the choke housing to help insulate it. There has to be a solution to this problem.
Here's the latest on my choke. After finding my Air Gap intake manifold was barely warm and my carburetor was ice cold after a 60 mile drive I realized my choke housing could never get heated enough to offset the ice cold carburetor it is mounted to and the effects of the bitter cold fan wash. I pounded a hamburger-sized patty of hot A/C putty then molded it around my choke housing to insulate it and shield it from the fan wash. After installing it I took it for a 5 mile drive and my choke stayed off so I may have finally solved the problem. The putty sure isn't pretty but as the air cleaner completely covers it it's appearance isn't an issue.
So now I'm waiting for my new pressure switch to arrive so I can cure my engine dying problem. Fortunately I'm not going anywhere for the next few days so the Monday delivery date will be okay.
Here's the latest on my choke. After finding my Air Gap intake manifold was barely warm and my carburetor was ice cold after a 60 mile drive I realized my choke housing could never get heated enough to offset the ice cold carburetor it is mounted to and the effects of the bitter cold fan wash. I pounded a hamburger-sized patty of hot A/C putty then molded it around my choke housing to insulate it and shield it from the fan wash. After installing it I took it for a 5 mile drive and my choke stayed off so I may have finally solved the problem. The putty sure isn't pretty but as the air cleaner completely covers it it's appearance isn't an issue.
So now I'm waiting for my new pressure switch to arrive so I can cure my engine dying problem. Fortunately I'm not going anywhere for the next few days so the Monday delivery date will be okay.
How did you come up with Albion, Rhode Island? My wife and I ran through that town this morning on our 5 mile run. If that glob falls on the road and I step in it...
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How did you come up with Albion, Rhode Island? My wife and I ran through that town this morning on our 5 mile run. If that glob falls on the road and I step in it...
About 10 years ago I had my '82 idling with it's air cleaner off and I happened to look down into the bore of the right throttle body. I actually saw ice forming at the front of the throttle blade and thought my engine could die if the ice got thick enough. It didn't die but it did start running real rough just before the ice began melting. As I had converted my '71's L-88 style hood to ram air this summer I am now wondering if carburetor icing could be a problem on a real cold humid day. If I begin to have an icing problem I'll have to modify my ram air hood to allow for a warm air inlet and a way to plug off the front intake. My hood also has a large rear vent to allow engine heat to escape out the rear so I'd have to plug that big opening too. Hmm.
In the meantime it looks like I may have gotten my choke re-engagement problem solved when I added the thick A/C putty to my choke housing. After driving it for 60 miles early this morning I was really surprised to find my carburetor was as cold as ice.
I also found my gas mileage is really suffering when my choke is partially closed so I'll have to get this choke re-engagement problem solved or disable it. A manual choke would certainly solve the problem but I hate the thought of having a shiny chrome plated **** under my dashboard.
Looking at this issue....for me...logic would tell me to fabricate a shield to deflect any air from hitting the choke coil. Nothing fancy because it would be for testing. AND then if it worked..I would make an air shield that would be worthy of me putting my name on it.
AND.....I personally do not slice into the wire that goes to the HEI. I knwo where I can get power from another source if needed.....REGARDLESS if it IS coming from the IGNITION circuit off of the ignition switch. I leave that wire dedicated to the HEI.
And...only being able to speculate. The wire that powers up this choke...I wonder if it is protected from heat.....so after a 30 minute drive...it is not laying in an area where it is now as soft as a cooked noodle....which many of us know...heat can effect how well a wire and carry current.
It is clear that some people have their OWN WAY of doing things.
DUB
EDIT:..Sorry...I did not read all the way through this thread...and did not knwo that he tried to protect the choke coil assembly.
Its supposed to hit the sub teens again tomorrow thru Thursday so I'll have the chance to drive it and see if my choke will come off. It appears ram air does have it's drawbacks in winter driving. For now its too risky to drive it because my fuel pump safety switch is bad and could kill my engine at any moment.
Its supposed to hit the sub teens again tomorrow thru Thursday so I'll have the chance to drive it and see if my choke will come off. It appears ram air does have it's drawbacks in winter driving. For now its too risky to drive it because my fuel pump safety switch is bad and could kill my engine at any moment.
I see you live in Alaska today. That explains the icing carburetor, you should move back to Texas.
About 10 years ago I had my '82 idling with it's air cleaner off and I happened to look down into the bore of the right throttle body. I actually saw ice forming at the front of the throttle blade and thought my engine could die if the ice got thick enough. It didn't die but it did start running real rough just before the ice began melting. As I had converted my '71's L-88 style hood to ram air this summer I am now wondering if carburetor icing could be a problem on a real cold humid day. If I begin to have an icing problem I'll have to modify my ram air hood to allow for a warm air inlet and a way to plug off the front intake. My hood also has a large rear vent to allow engine heat to escape out the rear so I'd have to plug that big opening too. Hmm.
In the meantime it looks like I may have gotten my choke re-engagement problem solved when I added the thick A/C putty to my choke housing. After driving it for 60 miles early this morning I was really surprised to find my carburetor was as cold as ice.
Maybe you could run a heat tube grid over the top of your carburetor to keep the air warm. Just secure it on with some putty and it should be fine.
Its funny how we modify our cars to make them uh "better" while often creating new problems. I modified my L-88 style hood to get ram air but then the ram air appears to be biting me in my butt during the cold winter months. After driving 60 miles and finding my intake manifold was barely warm and my carburetor was ice cold I now realize just how effective ram air is at reducing the intake temperature.
Here's the latest on my choke. After finding my Air Gap intake manifold was barely warm and my carburetor was ice cold after a 60 mile drive I realized my choke housing could never get heated enough to offset the ice cold carburetor it is mounted to and the effects of the bitter cold fan wash. I pounded a hamburger-sized patty of hot A/C putty then molded it around my choke housing to insulate it and shield it from the fan wash. After installing it I took it for a 5 mile drive and my choke stayed off so I may have finally solved the problem. The putty sure isn't pretty but as the air cleaner completely covers it it's appearance isn't an issue.
So now I'm waiting for my new pressure switch to arrive so I can cure my engine dying problem. Fortunately I'm not going anywhere for the next few days so the Monday delivery date will be okay.
The electric choke does not work by heating the choke housing. The bimetallic coil heats up due to resistance and releases the tension it applies to the linkage causing the choke to open. The coil is shot or the coil is not properly adjusted for cold weather. As you know these systems have been around for decades and nobody is re-engineering them the way you are.
The electric choke does not work by heating the choke housing. The bimetallic coil heats up due to resistance and releases the tension it applies to the linkage causing the choke to open. The coil is shot or the coil is not properly adjusted for cold weather. As you know these systems have been around for decades and nobody is re-engineering them the way you are.
Yes, but never forget he's a (so-called) mechanical engineer and that trumps any arguments that **** on his parade.