sent you an email Marc-

I don't think flex is really a problem... If you feel it is- you can simply use two longer bolts through the motor (3") and drill two holes in the headlight assembly- and there won't be any flexing!!!!

Another thing-

On several discussions of the headlight spring design- nobody could come up w/ why it was a slotted- as the spring tension keeps the pin from moving... SO you can removed the top pair of springs and the force to open the headlights is lessened quite a bit. You could remove all the springs going electric- but you's have to redesign the linkage/bracket as the springs keeps it centered.

Pic is for the bottom bolt through


DSCN5381 by Richard Hayes, on Flickr

 

I agree. As do many others, I believe. $399 seems about right to me. They make nice stuff, but I think the Miata motor route beats them out for the money.

 

I decided on Richards setup.....I went the stainless route and everything looks nice. I found some used probe motors on ebay. I think it was around 225 total for richards setup and the used motors. He shipped quickly too and was helpful. Hopefully ill be installing in the next few weeks so I'll post an update.

 

Hi Richard,

The reason I can see why the linkage is slotted and the springs keep the pin in the forward position is when the headlight door is closed the vacuum actuator can pull the pin back in the slot against the tension of the springs and keep the closed door at a slight tension. I guess this is to stop any movement or rattling of the doors.

When I did the electric conversion I re-drilled the motor arms so that the pushrod travel would be slightly longer then what the door linkage required. I then adjusted the pushrod length with the doors fully open and the linkage kicked back into the up locked position. When the doors are fully down and sitting on the linkage stop, I have got the motor arm pulling the pin back in the slot about 1/16". This keeps a slight spring tension on the closed doors.

As for flex I just used two of your brackets per side.

Brad

 

Got your email Richard, You and 454Lvr have mail. I'm using just one bracket per side. I started out using Simpson post caps way back at the beginning. Flex wasn't an issue then, and the post caps are not nearly as strong as the purpose-built brackets. I have the laser cut brackets now, just because my post caps were so mangled by the trial and error method I used to clear the hood and a/c condenser. Years later and they still work just fine, still have all the springs on, too. Maybe I'll take two off, though... lol

 

Brad... that is a really sweet installation! What did you use for a spacer between the brackets? Looks nicer (and stronger) than what I have!

 

Thanks I just turned up a bit of aluminium bar stock. I was going to use some 3/8" tube as a spacer but figured it would be just as quick to drill and turn 0.5" stock.

 

This looks like a really neat idea! I will have to look into this further as I can't stand all those vacuum hoses under the hood.

 

The mill I use is a TAIG, the only small mill I know of that's made in the US. I bought mine "CNC ready," than added the motors and a controller. They're not too expensive if you do it this way. It's really a hobbyist mill, but that's all I have room for. I don't even have 220V in my garage. Most of my work with this is electronics-based, things like cutting out chassis, making custom *****, engraving panels, etc. However, I occasionally use it for other things, usually one-offs where no one makes the item or I want, or it's something I can make better. Most of my work is aluminum, which lends itself to anodizing. Clear anodizing protects aluminum extremely well, and it's very inexpensive if you do it yourself. A few examples of my work:

Had this old variable transformer lying around, but needed it to be metered. Used the mill to build a bracket system using 1/4" 6061 plate, then remounted the guts in a modern case. The bracket had to be really stout, because the transformer core is heavy and the new case is only light gauge aluminum.



Built an "EZ loader" for my Smith and Wesson. This was a completely custom one-off design.



My T-bucket originally had friction shocks on the front, and I wanted standard hydraulics. So, I made a set of shock brackets from 3/8" 6061 plate. The holes for the shock bolts were cut oversize and bushed with Oilite sleeve bearings from McMaster-Carr.



Sorry, didn't mean to hijack the thread. Just thought some of the other DIYers here might be interested.

 

Drawmain, you have a PM