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Guys, I have known about these for a while but was told not to say much as they were not ready. Anybody who knows Detroit Speed knows they put out quality stuff. I was told they had these a while back but were not pleased with the operation. That has been cured. These are not cobbled together pieces. It is a total redo of headlight motors. Are they pricey? Maybe. But considering the cost to redo the vacuum system completly this is not bad at all. Will I buy these, eventually when I get back to the Vette. Right now the Cobra is eating my funds in a hurry and big time. Once that is complete the Vette will be back to getting work done. Just thought you might be interested.
The Miata/Probe motors used on many conversions (Cougars/GTO/Camaro etc) are really reliable- used on over a million cars- and still work when you pull them out of junkyard.
Here's why-
All encased in the motor- an ingenious contact system - after it travels 180º- the motor stops- hit the other trigger wire and it moves 180º and stops. Simple, reliable AND inexpensive!!!
The Detroit speed piece is current limit switched- some of the guys w/ the C2 conversion complain that when they hit a bump the lights will open and close.
Using a harness I whipped up- NO external electronics are needed.
And for what they are charging you can do 4 cars!!!
Not to mention us Corvette Forum Guys perfected it!!!
I have the complete McSpeed Killer Lights setup if I ever get around to installing it. Even have the upgraded rebuild kit with brass gears for the Firebird actuators.
How expensive is the Probe/Miata system if you buy the parts new?
Shoot me an email richard454 at comcast dot net
You can get the motors for less than $20/ea at your local pullapart.
Originally Posted by MIKE80
I have the complete McSpeed Killer Lights setup if I ever get around to installing it. Even have the upgraded rebuild kit with brass gears for the Firebird actuators.
The only issue w/ this set up is it requires cutting up your headlight actuator bracket...where as the Probe/Miata just requires a slight notch- on the top of the bracket as it doesn't weaken using the ones you have to chop the bottom out.
Not to mention you'll need external electronics to control($50-100)...and you have to watch out for the internal fuse that can burn up....
How expensive is the Probe/Miata system if you buy the parts new?
About $110 to $120 at AutoZone for new Miata motors, bracket a couple bucks for small pieces of plate aluminum.... template on Richard`s thread, relay about $5 at AutoZone....
I bought used motors off Ebay, got mine in for under a hundred!
About $110 to $120 at AutoZone for new Miata motors, bracket a couple bucks for small pieces of plate aluminum.... template on Richard`s thread, relay about $5 at AutoZone....
I bought used motors off Ebay, got mine in for under a hundred!
My headlights are working for now, but I'm definitely interested. I'd like to be prepared for a quick switch-out when these 30-year-old vacuum assemblies eventually fail. In fact, nothing would suit me better than getting rid of all these vacuum hoses.
Just to be sure I understand, are the motors being used for this in current production? Or are they an older part that might also be discontinued in the near future?
I see photos of the brackets at Richards site, but not templates. Do you have a link for those?
My headlights are working for now, but I'm definitely interested. I'd like to be prepared for a quick switch-out when these 30-year-old vacuum assemblies eventually fail. In fact, nothing would suit me better than getting rid of all these vacuum hoses.
Just to be sure I understand, are the motors being used for this in current production? Or are they an older part that might also be discontinued in the near future?
I see photos of the brackets at Richards site, but not templates. Do you have a link for those?
They made 3/4 million Probes 93-97 and 1/4 million90-97 Miatas...
I see photos of the brackets at Richards site, but not templates. Do you have a link for those?
Originally Posted by Richard454
They made 3/4 million Probes 93-97 and 1/4 million90-97 Miatas...
New or re-man. at your local auto parts store.
Bracket was easy.... but don`t forget the beer!
I made two for each motor, because I`d heard of them flexing a little when operating. So with them sandwiched between dual brackets, they don`t move at all! Note that the one for the back side does not need the hole for the rotating arm.
Many thanks to Richard for all the info & pictures for this.... and other cool ideas!
The only issue w/ this set up is it requires cutting up your headlight actuator bracket...where as the Probe/Miata just requires a slight notch- on the top of the bracket as it doesn't weaken using the ones you have to chop the bottom out.
Not to mention you'll need external electronics to control($50-100)...and you have to watch out for the internal fuse that can burn up....
Yeah, I already have all the electronics and everything for the install. I bought everything a few years back, just haven't installed it yet.
My vacuum system is new but my engine doesn't provide enough vacuum for the lights, so have to get out and help them go up.
Interesting. Nice alternative since I rarely drive at night and hardly ever use my headlights. If the brackets flex using aluminum why could you just not use steel plate instead of aluminum. The weight cannot be that much of a difference.
I knew that when my '72 was built, those stupid looking round lights were basically all they had to work with, and had those huge openings that looked geeky as hell, so bac in '98 here in Florida I hit a deer at night....about the size of a GSD and took out both of them busted all the castings to hell and back....
SO after fixing the body up, I put in a set of Ecklers sugar scoops and the tall/square lights available at the time.....did ok for some years, but never cared for the huge openings....looked stupid ......
But some years ago, I got hit in the left front by a Verizon truck in a parking lot, so new bumper/grill repair, and no way to fix the paint any more so repainted the car....but upon giving that ghost up, decided to put in later Camaro bulbs at near 1/2 the height, fab up the mounts from part off two Camaros in junkyard....brought lights forward about 1/2 way, and closed up the huge openings....looks a HELL of a lot better......
and knocked about 500 lbs of weight off the front end too.....
Interesting. Nice alternative since I rarely drive at night and hardly ever use my headlights. If the brackets flex using aluminum why could you just not use steel plate instead of aluminum. The weight cannot be that much of a difference.
As you probably have experienced in fabricating something for yourself. Even if you bend and make bracket out of thick steel...the dynamics of 'whatever' can put a stress load on the bracket and cause it to move. I have run into this more times than I care to remember and a lot of it deals with some key specific bends that GM can have in a part due to the dies used to stamping it out. Which allows GM to use a thinner gauge of metal But trying to put these key bends in the 90 degree bend of the part when using a box/pan break machine....just can not be done. Or at least I have not figured that one out yet. I make a lot of brackets out of thick 1/8" aluminum and have made them out of steel and come to find out that the bracket s still moves due to the 'angles of the dangles'. Yes...the movement is lessened...but until an additional brace or bracket has been employed...that is what stops any movement.
As you probably have experienced in fabricating something for yourself. Even if you bend and make bracket out of thick steel...the dynamics of 'whatever' can put a stress load on the bracket and cause it to move. I have run into this more times than I care to remember and a lot of it deals with some key specific bends that GM can have in a part due to the dies used to stamping it out. Which allows GM to use a thinner gauge of metal But trying to put these key bends in the 90 degree bend of the part when using a box/pan break machine....just can not be done. Or at least I have not figured that one out yet. I make a lot of brackets out of thick 1/8" aluminum and have made them out of steel and come to find out that the bracket s still moves due to the 'angles of the dangles'. Yes...the movement is lessened...but until an additional brace or bracket has been employed...that is what stops any movement.
DUB
The problem here might be the size of the foot. At 1-1/2" wide, it's probably too small relative to the work and weight involved. I suspect two brackets are required regardless of thickness if absolute stability is required. As for bending sheetmetal, that wouldn't be necessary in order to make brackets. Angle aluminum is readily available in sizes that will do the job. Pieces of 6061, 3" x 5" x 1/4" thick and 18"-24" long can be found on eBay for roughly $12-15. All it takes is cutting tools to turn a piece like that into four brackets.
Bear in mind it's not that easy to work with 1/4" aluminum, especially if the finished product is an odd shape and holes need to be precisely aligned. Even with a small CNC mill that I use for aluminum work, I think it probably wouldn't be worth my time to do this myself. Richard's price is very fair, and he can supply them in stainless. That's really the way to go.
The problem here might be the size of the foot. At 1-1/2" wide, it's probably too small relative to the work and weight involved. I suspect two brackets are required regardless of thickness if absolute stability is required. As for bending sheetmetal, that wouldn't be necessary in order to make brackets. Angle aluminum is readily available in sizes that will do the job. Pieces of 6061, 3" x 5" x 1/4" thick and 18"-24" long can be found on eBay for roughly $12-15. All it takes is cutting tools to turn a piece like that into four brackets.
Bear in mind it's not that easy to work with 1/4" aluminum, especially if the finished product is an odd shape and holes need to be precisely aligned. Even with a small CNC mill that I use for aluminum work, I think it probably wouldn't be worth my time to do this myself. Richard's price is very fair, and he can supply them in stainless. That's really the way to go.
I completely understand the foot of the bracket. I encounter it often when I have to fabricate some brackets where the supporting and function of 'whatever' causes for the bracket to flex. I also work with polished stainless steel. YES...it is much stronger when bent.
Yes...ordering or going out and buying angle aluminum I have done on many projects where I need that perfect flat foot in relation to a perfect 90 degree angle.
So I am not at all complaining. I was just saying that having an extra plate or gusset for rigidity and support...is fine by me. Just in case it came across differently
I envy you having a small CNC machine. MAN...that can open up so many possibilities for me when I fab stuff. I can get stuff made...but that is not the same as keeping it in house and able to make changes if needed.
New electric headlights
DSCN4669 by Richard Hayes, on Flickr
DSCN5113 by Richard Hayes, on Flickr
