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Old Jan 8, 2016 | 02:35 AM
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Originally Posted by gkull
yes at some point of angle milling the head bolt holes would cause interference. Generally you are talking less than .060 cut and that is so trivial as to the angular change of a 23 degree head
Thanks George......
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Old Jan 8, 2016 | 09:46 AM
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Originally Posted by bmans vette
Just a quick question for those that know in real experience.....

If you angle mill the heads, does that change the head bolt/stud alignment? In other words, do you have to modify the original headbolt hole in the head to line up?

Just curious...

Txs
Bman
Typically you spot face the head bolt holes to keep them flat.

JIM
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Old Jan 8, 2016 | 12:12 PM
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Originally Posted by 427Hotrod
Typically you spot face the head bolt holes to keep them flat.

JIM
Txs Jim.

I learned something today....
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Old Jan 8, 2016 | 01:37 PM
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Originally Posted by 427Hotrod
This correct and you're doing it right with AFR. You always want to mill the intake face of the heads...NEVER the manifold. Folks who cut manifolds just married the heads and manifold to be a set and eliminated easy swaps to other parts later.

My BBC heads have been angled milled like crazy! And any intake I use bolts on with no drama.

Pay attention to valve clearance in the pockets. Not sure about your pistons/cam..but be sure the different angle doesn't run things into each other.

Angle milling also reduces intake flow somewhat most of the time..so a little work to get it back in line is in order. But you never know unless the heads are on a bench.

But I'd have bought some heads to work with that 406!!

JIM
The intake face of the head, not the face of the intake, is getting milled, same with the bolt holes, spot faced on the head not the intake.

Already have, the 406 now has a set of Dart SHP's with 197+cc's.
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Old Jan 8, 2016 | 02:39 PM
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All my vette motors are fully studded and the even though the blocks are blue printed (supposedly) It is still a pita to get heads on and off because of stud to head hole clearance.

427 motown SBC



Last edited by gkull; Jan 8, 2016 at 02:40 PM.
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Old Jan 8, 2016 | 10:50 PM
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Originally Posted by REELAV8R
The intake face of the head, not the face of the intake, is getting milled, same with the bolt holes, spot faced on the head not the intake.

Already have, the 406 now has a set of Dart SHP's with 197+cc's.
Gotcha...was congratulating you on doing it the right way!


Now even better...I see the 406 has some heads...but you know you could have gone bigger??

Just messin' with you....


JIM
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Old Jan 9, 2016 | 12:44 PM
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Originally Posted by 427Hotrod
Gotcha...was congratulating you on doing it the right way!


Now even better...I see the 406 has some heads...but you know you could have gone bigger??

Just messin' with you....


JIM
Sorry, I guess I read that wrong. Yes bigger.....Lol.

Cool thing about AFR's is that here is a 180cc head that flows better than my 195cc Darts or pretty much any other 200 cc head and it's doing it with less volume. Tony Mamo knows what he's doing.

It should be a win-win for the 350. More velocity and greater flow.
Maybe I'll hit that 300 RWHP yet. That should keep me happy for a year or two.
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Old Jan 9, 2016 | 01:05 PM
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Originally Posted by REELAV8R
That should keep me happy for a year or two.
Ah yes....."the dreaded year or two".
Goes well with the......."while I was at it"

My present affliction....
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Old Oct 12, 2016 | 12:51 PM
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Thought I would update this thread on my AFR heads and the outcome.

It took a while as I also got the rear diff rebuilt and the ratio changed from 3.08 to 3.55.

I ended up polishing the exhaust ports and the combustion chambers on the heads and left the intake tract and ports alone on the new AFR heads. Heads angle milled to 56cc's and confirmed with cc'ing the heads when they arrived. Actually one head was 55.5 cc's but close enough. The intake valve actually protrudes below the deck surface.

Intake ports confirmed at 180 cc's as advertised vs the Dart heads that were significantly oversized when they arrived.

I also took the time to port out the performer 2101 intake manifold. I opened up all the smaller CSA's to at least 1.95 square inches. Made all the transitions in the main plenums to the port runners gradual, raised the roof and opened up the volume of the main plenums. Left the finish as a textured surface left by the burr for maximum fuel suspension and a good surface turbulence vs a laminar flow attempt.

On initial start up the engine sounded roughly the same at idle, that's where the similarities ended though.
Immediately it was apparent the engine had significantly more snap as I flicked the throttle open, instant throttle response.

On the road the engine is much louder than it was before. Now at 10.6:1 CR vs the previous 9.9 CR.
The throttle response is so quick it now is impossible to accelerate as I did before without spinning the tires. I have a new torque converter that stalls at 3000 RPM vs the previous 2600, and the engine is developing significant torque now by that RPM.
My 0 to 60 times were 6.5 to 6.7 seconds with the 3.08 and Dart heads.
Now it's difficult to get a good 0 to 60 due to wheel spin, even on grooved concrete after spinning the tires to make them sticky. But best time so far with some wheel spin and backing off the throttle is 5.45 seconds.
Keep in mind these times are at 3500 feet not sea level so are going to be slower than a sea level time. A sea level time if the tires could be made to stick may be around 4.8, 4.7 or thereabouts.
Would really like to get it on a 1/4 mile track now.

Dyno will definitely be in it's future to see the differences from the other heads.
All in all a success. The additional velocity of the smaller 180 cc intake tract is apparent with the throttle response. The intake manifold now more closely follows an ever diminishing CSA to the head for good velocity into the head as well.

Last edited by REELAV8R; Oct 12, 2016 at 12:53 PM.
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Old Oct 12, 2016 | 01:26 PM
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Nice job, amazing what some airspeed, compression will do.
Wanting to go a little smaller on heads here also. Used to be heads were so crappy all you could do was try and go bigger lots of good options these days.
Next time someone says Gen 1s are no good and why not put a used LS1 in you can pound a little common sense into them.
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Old Oct 12, 2016 | 03:37 PM
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Thanks cuisinartvette, I expected there to be some improvement over the Dart heads, I just didn't expect it to be so dramatic.

It's almost as big a difference as when I went from stock to the Dart heads. For sure the cam likes what I did.
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Old Oct 12, 2016 | 04:35 PM
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Awesome news. Good to read all your plans came together. Myself I would be reluctant to mill brand new heads.

So I looked over your thread but not sure your motor size now or what cam you have. Just some FYI as my Camaro has severe traction problems also but I've been reading it now needs lower control arm relocation brackets to get it to squat and hook. Not sure how you would change the Corvette trailing arms for this but it reads like you are headed in that direction for better traction.

Thx for the update. Pretty cool project you completed.
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Old Oct 12, 2016 | 05:55 PM
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Originally Posted by cardo0
Awesome news. Good to read all your plans came together. Myself I would be reluctant to mill brand new heads.

So I looked over your thread but not sure your motor size now or what cam you have. Just some FYI as my Camaro has severe traction problems also but I've been reading it now needs lower control arm relocation brackets to get it to squat and hook. Not sure how you would change the Corvette trailing arms for this but it reads like you are headed in that direction for better traction.

Thx for the update. Pretty cool project you completed.
Thanks Cardo. It's still my stock 2 bolt main 350 block, stock bore. Cam is a retro roller 270/270 219/219@.050 108 LSA with .549 lift.
I'll worry about traction when it comes time to change the tires I figure. That will be sooner now I suppose.
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Old Oct 12, 2016 | 08:35 PM
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Great result, congrats!
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Old Oct 12, 2016 | 10:16 PM
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Ya thanks for the update....I wish more guys would do that.

You just need some of those sticky street tires now to have some fun....

Last edited by OMF; Oct 14, 2016 at 10:04 PM.
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Old Oct 13, 2016 | 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by sstocker31
Ya thanks for the update....I wish more guy would do that.

You just need some of those sticky street tires now to have some fun....
Me too. Usually you end up wondering how whatever they did worked out.

I can say that the AFR heads are in my opinion worth the money. Everything checked out within spec. Valve guide clearances, spring rates and valve install height, chamber, intake and exhaust volumes were all within a very small error or right on the money.
All I did was shim up the spring a bit to get more seat pressure and get the spring compressed dimension closer to coil bind while open, other than smoothing out the CNC grooves where needed.
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Old Oct 14, 2016 | 05:10 PM
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You got to be kidding me! All of this to go from 10 to 10.5!

5 isn't going to do crap for you! Just tune it more aggressively after making sure you have a good carb and headers and you will be happy!
TCracingCA, Read the whole thread.
The Dart heads do not flow nearly as well as the AFR heads and had damaged valve guides.
The AFR heads have appropriately sized intake runners for proper intake charge velocity.
This is an altitude build. Every bit of compression is going to matter. It went from 9.9 to 10.6 BTW.
The results speak for themselves. It's a different beast with this combo.
Carb and headers are already in place, as is cold air intake and appropriate timing adjustment and curve.

It amazes me how many people are willing to tell you what won't work but have no idea what will.
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Old Oct 14, 2016 | 07:00 PM
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Originally Posted by REELAV8R
TCracingCA, Read the whole thread.
The Dart heads do not flow nearly as well as the AFR heads and had damaged valve guides.
The AFR heads have appropriately sized intake runners for proper intake charge velocity.
This is an altitude build. Every bit of compression is going to matter. It went from 9.9 to 10.6 BTW.
The results speak for themselves. It's a different beast with this combo.
Carb and headers are already in place, as is cold air intake and appropriate timing adjustment and curve.

It amazes me how many people are willing to tell you what won't work but have no idea what will.

Stupid Iphone and probably Iphone user (me!). I thought I was at the end of the thread, so I replied , and after that loaded realized the phone hadn't loaded Page 2 yet!, because I saw different posts in front of mine, where you had bought new heads! Good move! I deleted immediately within a minute or so, but you are fast! Glad to read you are happy! Let us know when you make the next jump in compression to like 12.5:1 and I will come back in!

Last edited by TCracingCA; Oct 14, 2016 at 07:02 PM.
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Old Oct 15, 2016 | 10:45 AM
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Originally Posted by TCracingCA
Stupid Iphone and probably Iphone user (me!). I thought I was at the end of the thread, so I replied , and after that loaded realized the phone hadn't loaded Page 2 yet!, because I saw different posts in front of mine, where you had bought new heads! Good move! I deleted immediately within a minute or so, but you are fast! Glad to read you are happy! Let us know when you make the next jump in compression to like 12.5:1 and I will come back in!
I feel your pain with the apple anything, I'm responding to this on an iPad.

Guess I just happen to be on when you responded before you could delete. I don't see your post now.
I'll probably stick with a compression in which I can run pump fuel for the time being. Although if a guy did it right 12.5 is likely doable with premium. So far I'm mixing the fuel to 88 octane with no detonation, may try lower. 9.9 cr tolerated 85 octane with no problems.
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