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I recently bought a wire set that's supposed to be the same as factory for my '82. Right after I bought it, I spent more time looking around the motor, and I've discovered there aren't any factory wire looms or hold downs. Even underneath, all I see are tie-wraps and similar to keep the wires out of trouble. In a few places, they're routed up against the block or other metal surfaces in a way I don't like. Now I'm concerned that I'm going about this the wrong way. It might have been better to buy the wire management pieces first, then cut a set of Taylor wires to fit. At this point, my question is whether anyone has tried to route the original length wires UP from the exhaust manifolds, rather than down and toward the rear? Is there any other way to salvage this that wouldn't require buying all the factory hold down parts? It's probably a long shot, but... any pictures of a stock-length wire set run over or under the manifolds with CUSTOM management would be really helpful. If you've done this but don't have pictures, a description of what you did and the parts you used would be just as good.
From: Las Vegas - Just stop perpetuating myths please.
Yea the stock routing for most C3 was down the back of the motor and up to the plugs but under the exh manifolds with the front 2 plug wires going in between the motormount and block. Used tin shielding to. Im not understanding what u say u find for your routing now. But when i tried the stock routing the thick 8mm wires would not fit inside the motor mounts and i dont like how wires #5 & #7 lay together. So I just bought a cut and fit your own set - several mfrs sell'm. With my headers i have the front 3 plug wires come down from over the vlv covers but the last wire goes down behind the block and up under the header pipe to the plug. Yea looks kinda well kinda stupid but its totally functional. Once i learned how to trim and crimp the wire i started making all my own wires.
I recently bought a wire set that's supposed to be the same as factory for my '82. Right after I bought it, I spent more time looking around the motor, and I've discovered there aren't any factory wire looms or hold downs. Even underneath, all I see are tie-wraps and similar to keep the wires out of trouble. In a few places, they're routed up against the block or other metal surfaces in a way I don't like. Now I'm concerned that I'm going about this the wrong way. It might have been better to buy the wire management pieces first, then cut a set of Taylor wires to fit. At this point, my question is whether anyone has tried to route the original length wires UP from the exhaust manifolds, rather than down and toward the rear? Is there any other way to salvage this that wouldn't require buying all the factory hold down parts? It's probably a long shot, but... any pictures of a stock-length wire set run over or under the manifolds with CUSTOM management would be really helpful. If you've done this but don't have pictures, a description of what you did and the parts you used would be just as good.
454- I just changed plug wires on my 454, which has aftermarket wire looms. See if photos help. I have some wire ties just to keep things in place. RA
Last edited by ronarndt; Jan 4, 2016 at 03:08 PM.
Reason: add photo
I recently bought a wire set that's supposed to be the same as factory for my '82. Right after I bought it, I spent more time looking around the motor, and I've discovered there aren't any factory wire looms or hold downs. Even underneath, all I see are tie-wraps and similar to keep the wires out of trouble. In a few places, they're routed up against the block or other metal surfaces in a way I don't like. Now I'm concerned that I'm going about this the wrong way. It might have been better to buy the wire management pieces first, then cut a set of Taylor wires to fit. At this point, my question is whether anyone has tried to route the original length wires UP from the exhaust manifolds, rather than down and toward the rear? Is there any other way to salvage this that wouldn't require buying all the factory hold down parts? It's probably a long shot, but... any pictures of a stock-length wire set run over or under the manifolds with CUSTOM management would be really helpful. If you've done this but don't have pictures, a description of what you did and the parts you used would be just as good.
The '82's wires run down alongside the rear of the block into stamped steel covers on both sides that protect them. If those covers aren't there a previous owner got frustrated and trashed them.
...The '82's wires run down alongside the rear of the block into stamped steel covers on both sides that protect them. If those covers aren't there a previous owner got frustrated and trashed them...
The tie wraps are the give away. The factory did not use tie wraps.
Last edited by Easy Mike; Jan 4, 2016 at 04:25 PM.
The channels for routing the wires are nearly impossible to see (and access) from the top but reasonable from underneath. Up on four jack stands with front wheels removed is simplest way to get reasonable access. The covers/channels are wide but very shallow "V"s.
On my '79 somebody got frustrated and simply ripped/cut apart the wires that go through the channel and just ran new wires sans looms/hold downs/etc. As you might guess the wires weren't in very good condition
they are such a pain to mess with especially if they are grimey with a bad oil leak, like mine were, i took them off routed my wires on top like old school and called it a day
the way it is is discourages upkeep and as a result they get neglected, plugs, wires, the whole shebang
When I first bought my restomod frankenvette, I wasnt even AWARE that there was a prescribed way to route wires through factory sheet metal. I tried some of those looms that bolt to valve covers but couldnt get my set of MSD wires to fit, so I stuck with good old school traditional over the top routing. My headers play hell with my wires and Im constantly burning boots, even with the asbestos sleeves. One of these days when Im rich I may buy a universal set and trim them to be routed under the headers, but thats a whiles away.
When I first bought my restomod frankenvette, I wasnt even AWARE that there was a prescribed way to route wires through factory sheet metal. I tried some of those looms that bolt to valve covers but couldnt get my set of MSD wires to fit, so I stuck with good old school traditional over the top routing. My headers play hell with my wires and Im constantly burning boots, even with the asbestos sleeves. One of these days when Im rich I may buy a universal set and trim them to be routed under the headers, but thats a whiles away.
yeah, never ending grief from hot pipes messing with ignition, ran on 6 or 7 cylinders more than once
yeah, never ending grief from hot pipes messing with ignition, ran on 6 or 7 cylinders more than once
I wound up beating the ever loving snot out of the #2 pipe on the drivers side to make clearance. Broke my heart to pound on those ceramic coated Heddmans like that, but I had NO other choice. I tried heat wraps, asbestos sleeves, 90 degree boots, swearing and voodoo curses. Before I made the clearance dents, Id sit at and idle, once every 3-4 weeks and just feel the engine skip, just a hair. Go home, check the plugs, burnt again. Since I did the 'dent' mod, Ive had no issues.
I wound up beating the ever loving snot out of the #2 pipe on the drivers side to make clearance. Broke my heart to pound on those ceramic coated Heddmans like that, but I had NO other choice. I tried heat wraps, asbestos sleeves, 90 degree boots, swearing and voodoo curses. Before I made the clearance dents, Id sit at and idle, once every 3-4 weeks and just feel the engine skip, just a hair. Go home, check the plugs, burnt again. Since I did the 'dent' mod, Ive had no issues.
Thanks to everyone for the excellent photos. After thinking about this more, I've decided to route the wires underneath. The set I bought is designed to fit that way, and I think it will make a big mess if I bring them out the top through the rams horns. Also, this is a Crossfire car, and there are enough ugly black hoses and tubing running across the top side already. So, this leaves me with having to figure out how to install the wires so they won't get burned or worn through.
I'm pretty sure I'm missing all the sheetmetal in the pics above. The motor maybe still has the two wire holders on each side circled in the diagram below. The 2-wire clips (arrow) are missing:
Let's say I replace the missing holders and route the wires so they can't contact the manifolds or block. Do you guys think the wires (especially the boots) will be OK without the heat shields?
Thanks to everyone for the excellent photos. After thinking about this more, I've decided to route the wires underneath. The set I bought is designed to fit that way, and I think it will make a big mess if I bring them out the top through the rams horns. Also, this is a Crossfire car, and there are enough ugly black hoses and tubing running across the top side already. So, this leaves me with having to figure out how to install the wires so they won't get burned or worn through.
I'm pretty sure I'm missing all the sheetmetal in the pics above. The motor maybe still has the two wire holders on each side circled in the diagram below. The 2-wire clips (arrow) are missing:
Let's say I replace the missing holders and route the wires so they can't contact the manifolds or block. Do you guys think the wires (especially the boots) will be OK without the heat shields?
i took all of mine off, they are on ebay, i'll make you a reasonable deal, it you are so inclined to go that way, i did booger the one next to the starter, didn't want to remover the starter. pm me if interested
Mine were all in the stock wire runs when I bough my 73. I removed the two side chrome pieces and all the shielding under the manifolds when I switched to headers a few weeks ago (except the V wire routes on the sides of the block). Installed Summit headers and the short Accel header spark plugs. The wires come right up from under the block and connect to the plugs with the 90-degree connector. Perfect fit and no where near the headers. No need for asbestos socks. Clean installation too. Take your time and do it right. The factory routing really is the best when you take into account the hassles of the hot header/manifolds when trying to route over them. Cleaner is better, and it really does not take that much more effort. And this coming from a man with very little patience.
It never ceases to amaze me that GM purposely routed the plug wires under the motor mounts. This must have been part of their long term plan towards today's impossible to service motors.
It never ceases to amaze me that GM purposely routed the plug wires under the motor mounts. This must have been part of their long term plan towards today's impossible to service motors.
Will the boots slide out through the space between the mounts and block? It's not necessary to unbolt the motor mounts to replace the wires, is it?
Routing Spark Plug Wires
