When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
You can buy sand blasters from Harbor Freight for not very much money. I suggest you blast it then paint it with XO-Rust spray paint (being sure to align the nozzle with the dot).
A rust converter should work fine, as long as you remove loose scale and grease. How much sanding it needs will depend on how smooth you want the final paint to be. TBTR's suggestion about blasting is a good option.
Just wire brush the loose stuff off; this will also smooth-out the surface. Then apply the rust converter, which will turn the remaining rust into an inert coating which will not rust further. This coating can be used as a primer, although I would choose to prime it with zinc chromate before painting a metallic paint that approximately matched the appearance of the bare metal on a new part.
P.S. Make sure that any points of electrical connection and grounding are free of paint so conduction can take place.
Looks to me like a good excuse to buy a small media blaster.
I need to drop the tank on my '77 to change the fuel gauge sending unit.
How bad is that job?
Well my spare tire carrier, rear end and trailing arms were already removed for a rebuild. I had quick access to do the job and all the room in the world. The tank came out (in the best way I can describe) in a tumbling motion. After you syphon the gas and remove the support bar, you pretty much can grab it with both hands and tumble it forward. It will rotate down and you can cut the rubber hoses and disconnect wires to sending unit before dropping it fully down. It will "squeeze" past the metal shield that protects the cabin. With my exhaust unbolted it was no problem getting it out.
If I did it again, it would probably take me 10 minutes to get it out once the spare tire was removed.
Well my spare tire carrier, rear end and trailing arms were already removed for a rebuild. I had quick access to do the job and all the room in the world. The tank came out (in the best way I can describe) in a tumbling motion. After you syphon the gas and remove the support bar, you pretty much can grab it with both hands and tumble it forward. It will rotate down and you can cut the rubber hoses and disconnect wires to sending unit before dropping it fully down. It will "squeeze" past the metal shield that protects the cabin. With my exhaust unbolted it was no problem getting it out.
If I did it again, it would probably take me 10 minutes to get it out once the spare tire was removed.
Thanks for the info....
I have side pipes and no spare tire carrier, so access should be pretty decent.
When I rebuilt my rear suspension, I used a hydraulic ATV lift to raise the rear end back into place. I'll probably try that with the tank job, too.
Get a roll of "clay" weatherstripping from Home Depot. I call it "clay" because it handles somewhat like modeling clay. Use it to build a dam around the rusted area and pour in the evaporust to cover the rusted spots.
From: Las Vegas - Just stop perpetuating myths please.
Originally Posted by Strokemyaxe
What do you think? The tank isn't original from what I can tell. No sticker. Rust isn't horrible. Should I sand, convert and paint?
For something like that on the outside and looks like tank is already removed I would just paint that area with molasses for 2 days. Just on the outside though. Normally for parts I can dunk I use vinegar but molasses allows you to paint it on. U won't need much for that small area.
Good luck.
BTW u just need to wash the molasses off when done.
Molasses... You learn something new every day. Just read about. I wonder if I can use that to remove the light surface rust on my undercarriage before painting... Seems it is the right consistency to brush on and in all the hard to reach places a wire wheel can't go.
As far as the tank, used the evaporust, paper towels and plastic wrap as suggested. I'll check results tomorrow.
For something like that on the outside and looks like tank is already removed I would just paint that area with molasses for 2 days. Just on the outside though. Normally for parts I can dunk I use vinegar but molasses allows you to paint it on. U won't need much for that small area.
Good luck.
BTW u just need to wash the molasses off when done.
Alright, my evaporust is worn out. Used too much to be effective now. So I picked up some molasses. I'm curious to see how well this works, how messy it is, how hard it is to get off. If it works well, I may try painting my frame with it.
You have to flood the area with Evaporust. keeping it wet with paper towels won't do it. Use the "clay dam" method I suggested, and let it soak for 48 hours.
From: Las Vegas - Just stop perpetuating myths please.
Originally Posted by Strokemyaxe
Alright, my evaporust is worn out. Used too much to be effective now. So I picked up some molasses. I'm curious to see how well this works, how messy it is, how hard it is to get off. If it works well, I may try painting my frame with it.
How should I apply it? Concentrated?
Open the jar and brush it on Dude. Aint rocket science. Give it 2 days and if it dries and flakes/falls off just apply more. I wouldnt go past 2 days w/o a washing and inspect.
I read online to dilute it. I did. Doesn't look like it is doing much. I'm testing on the exhaust pipes since I will be replacing these pretty soon anyway. Going to brush on some of it concentrated.
Give it 2 days and if it dries and flakes/falls off just apply more. I wouldnt go past 2 days w/o a washing and inspect.
