flyeri

Correct on the booster, it can stay, but will have to be unbolted. You will have to support it and the master cylinder somehow and it will probably be easier to just take it out. Remember you will have to work in that area to get the clutch linkage and z bar in anyway.
Steering column and brackets have to come out. You will need to get the LH dash out of your way after the steering column is out.

It really is not that hard and taking it apart is easy. You will want a second set of hands when it comes to putting the pedal box back in.

I just had all of mine out to replace the plastic bushings in the pedal box.

lvmyvt76

68notray

I just completed the auto to manual swap. It is hard. Mine is a manual brake car, so the MC mounts on bolts that come through from the inside. Power brakes are opposite and easier. Had to tape the bolts to a 3' extension PLUS they are carriage bolts and will spin until the square head boss engages the bracket. Had to take seats, dash, column, wiper door all out

Gordonm

I would agree with DUB on this also. I would not drill it but weld it. I have always welded all the ones I have done. Actually not me directly. I have a welder buddy that does all my welding. I do not have the equipment or the skill so I do farm welding out. He is local and does make hose calls if need be.

DUB

Hopefully people know that you can buy the pedals and bushings and make an automatic car pedal assembly into a clutch car and do not need to buy the entire unit from another car. Just saying.

Oddly enough the pedals can not be serviced while the pedal assembly is in the car. The main pivot shaft can not come out....I have tried to save time

Not that this matters...but I might remove the master cylinder from the booster and get the booster out of the way....and this all depends on what I may need to do in the engine compartment area that would cause me to remove the master cylinder so I have better access to certain areas. As for supporting the booster/master cylinder assembly...that is not a concern and quite easy.

I have done this enough that I do not open up the brake system and have to deal with having to bleed the brakes out. Just one less step that I have to charge my customers for.

DUB

J-Vette1

I wander if the after market kits to convert an automatic to manual are of good quality. My worst nightmere is all the work getting these pedals swapped, and having some cheap material fail in a year. I think that happened with my T top bushings, but those are an easy replacement. Does anyone have any preferences or suggestions on the best pedal bushings??

DUB

Come join me in my 'nightmare' just a bout every day at work. From personal/professional experience. I do my best and not worry about the 'what-if's'. Worrying about stuff like that will drive you crazy...because I bet that when you go and drive your car, you are not freaking out that you might get into an accident and actually need to use your insurance....and leave the car in the garage. All I do is to take as many possible problems out of the equation SO I do not have to do it again. Sometimes my hands are tied and it is what it is.

Even the factory pedals can fail in time.

The pedals I have seen look really stout and the welds look like they penetrated well also.

As for the bushings..I do not see the need for any concern. They are plastic like the origianls. Getting them for a Corvette vendor (like Willcox Corvette) will do just fine.

DUB

J-Vette1

Even the factory pedals can fail in time.

The pedals I have seen look really stout and the welds look like they penetrated well also.

As for the bushings..I do not see the need for any concern. They are plastic like the origianls. Getting them for a Corvette vendor (like Willcox Corvette) will do just fine.

DUB[/QUOTE

Thanks for your feedback. I agree about the not worrying, once the work is done, but thought it was worth asking. I read some threads about the bushings, and someone said to stay away from the black colored ones. Someone else said they modified the hole and used a brass bushing and a bolt, after theirs failed. I guess its the engineer in me that has me worried about the material used by after market products, especially since so much stuff is made over seas nowadays.

DUB

Hey...it NEVER hurts to ask. And in can appreciate you being an Engineer...so I know how you think.

I am oftentimes suspect to specific parts being called out even though I run into them from time to time. So I am NOT doubting that people recommend to stay away from the black bushings...but I have to wonder who put them in and was there a burr or something that they did not see or take into account that cause pre-mature failure of that black bushing.

DUB

J-Vette1

Thank you for your advise so far. I just assembled the pedals (auto to manual conversion), and noticed the rubber stop on my old brake pedal assembly was gone (1972 Automatic). The pedal ( on return) was stopping directly on the brake light switch. The vendor that I bought my parts from lists the same part number for that rubber stop on both the brake and clutch, so I tried the one in the kit on my brake, and it seems like it is too thick (I lost a LOT of travel, compared to before). Any idea if the rubber stop on the brake side is thinner than the clutch stop. I should have taken a reference measurement before I pulled the old brake pedal out, but too late. I want to adjust the brake switch, while the whole assembly is out of the car.

DUB

Honestly...if I may...I would not loose a lot of sleep over the thickness of these rubber stop bumpers. You can always cut one down if needed.

I am guessing that this new rubber stop is about 1/4" thick where it makes contact. Even with the brake pedal now being slightly down...the brakes will still preform if the system is bled correctly.

It might be that due to the original rubber bumper was missing and the brake pedal was coming back so far that it messed withe brake light switch....you got used to it not being correct.

DUB

BLUE1972

It's not a bad conversion, just takes time.

Get the 5 speed with a neutral safety switch built in. You can only use the starter in neutral. It's easier to wire and allows for a remote starter in the future,

The Silver Sport, SST 5 speed comes with the switch.