Replacing brake pedal spring....impossible?
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 1,085
Likes: 96
From: Roselle Illinois
Replacing brake pedal spring....impossible?
I noticed my brake lights sometimes had stayed on after using the brakes, and after looking closer, the PO has a regular spring attached to the pedal and to the dash. Looking way up around where the pedal is attached, I don't see the orange coil return spring. I bought the spring, but it looks like I have to take out the dash and steering column just to get near it.
Has anyone ever done this task/mission before? Suggestions?
Has anyone ever done this task/mission before? Suggestions?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 3,116
Likes: 598
I noticed my brake lights sometimes had stayed on after using the brakes, and after looking closer, the PO has a regular spring attached to the pedal and to the dash. Looking way up around where the pedal is attached, I don't see the orange coil return spring. I bought the spring, but it looks like I have to take out the dash and steering column just to get near it.
Has anyone ever done this task/mission before? Suggestions?
Has anyone ever done this task/mission before? Suggestions?
There is no way around it. The pedal assembly will need to come apart. When I did my auto to manual pedal switch over I never found a way to do the work without removing the assembly from the car.
I also removed the seats to make it easier to lay on my back.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 1,085
Likes: 96
From: Roselle Illinois
Auto or Manual.
There is no way around it. The pedal assembly will need to come apart. When I did my auto to manual pedal switch over I never found a way to do the work without removing the assembly from the car.
I also removed the seats to make it easier to lay on my back.
There is no way around it. The pedal assembly will need to come apart. When I did my auto to manual pedal switch over I never found a way to do the work without removing the assembly from the car.
I also removed the seats to make it easier to lay on my back.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 11,183
Likes: 3,335
From: North of Toronto - Ontario
I'm not sure there is enough room in the cavity to pull the pin completely out while the bracket is up in place.
The pin will pull part way out before it hits the side.
As I recall I couldn't drop the brake pedal itself, maybe there's enough room to get the spring it but somehow I didn't think so...
M
The pin will pull part way out before it hits the side.
As I recall I couldn't drop the brake pedal itself, maybe there's enough room to get the spring it but somehow I didn't think so...
M
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 3,233
Likes: 657
From: Thunder Bay
Even if you could do it with the pedal assembly in the car, you would have to remove the steering column and instrument cluster. Once you have these out, removing the pedal assembly is no big deal.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 1,085
Likes: 96
From: Roselle Illinois
Thanks for the insight guys! Not what I was hoping for....completely removing the steering column sounds monumental. Or is it easy as disconnecting a harness, removing the support bolts, unbolting the firewall plate and disconnecting the rag joint? Then it just comes out?
I want it right and this generic spring zip tied to the pedal now is driving me crazy!
I want it right and this generic spring zip tied to the pedal now is driving me crazy!
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Had a 1976 L-82, 4-sp
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 5,338
Likes: 1,213
From: Some days your the dog and some days your the hydrant.
Royal Canadian Navy
Thanks for the insight guys! Not what I was hoping for....completely removing the steering column sounds monumental. Or is it easy as disconnecting a harness, removing the support bolts, unbolting the firewall plate and disconnecting the rag joint? Then it just comes out?
I want it right and this generic spring zip tied to the pedal now is driving me crazy!
I want it right and this generic spring zip tied to the pedal now is driving me crazy!
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 3,116
Likes: 598
Thanks for the insight guys! Not what I was hoping for....completely removing the steering column sounds monumental. Or is it easy as disconnecting a harness, removing the support bolts, unbolting the firewall plate and disconnecting the rag joint? Then it just comes out?
I want it right and this generic spring zip tied to the pedal now is driving me crazy!
I want it right and this generic spring zip tied to the pedal now is driving me crazy!
Also be carefull removing you steering column. The 79 column fits closely around the dash pad and can easily damage the dash edges. It is easier with a helper, but it all can be done by yourself. To re-install the column I used a helper to guide it into place at the rag joint.
As for electrical connections I had problems figuring out how they came apart. Also take note of the brake switches and their position ( count the threads ) They move in and out quite easily so when they move you can set them back.
My 78 I had them out 3 times already during the auto to manual conversion. I am now on the 4th to fix a problem with the clutch pedal making noise.
Last edited by cagotzmann; Jan 18, 2016 at 10:50 AM.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 1,085
Likes: 96
From: Roselle Illinois
It all comes apart easy expect for 1 nut. The upper left nut of the brake booster (from the inside). You will have the same problem putting the nut back on. You need a series of extensions and u-joints to get at it. Its very tight. But once you get the right combination to remove it, write it down so you can use the same to re-install. I found that after this step the rest is just time.
Also be carefull removing you steering column. The 79 column fits closely around the dash pad and can easily damage the dash edges. It is easier with a helper, but it all can be done by yourself. To re-install the column I used a helper to guide it into place at the rag joint.
As for electrical connections I had problems figuring out how they came apart. Also take note of the brake switches and their position ( count the threads ) They move in and out quite easily so when they move you can set them back.
My 78 I had them out 3 times already during the auto to manual conversion. I am now on the 4th to fix a problem with the clutch pedal making noise.
Also be carefull removing you steering column. The 79 column fits closely around the dash pad and can easily damage the dash edges. It is easier with a helper, but it all can be done by yourself. To re-install the column I used a helper to guide it into place at the rag joint.
As for electrical connections I had problems figuring out how they came apart. Also take note of the brake switches and their position ( count the threads ) They move in and out quite easily so when they move you can set them back.
My 78 I had them out 3 times already during the auto to manual conversion. I am now on the 4th to fix a problem with the clutch pedal making noise.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 11,183
Likes: 3,335
From: North of Toronto - Ontario
Column is pretty easy (remove drivers seat of course) as you detailed.
The other thing to look at before you get too deep is if you can drop that channel that holds the brake pedal without removing the column support bracket. Maybe the two bolts can be loosened and the brake channel slide out but somehow I'm not convinced about that.
I think the drivers dash would need to be removed to get that bracket set off since it's bolted pretty high at the front
If you do go in that deep, that bracket set controls where the column sits in relation to the drivers dash (up and down / left and right).
There are 4 carriage style bolts that hold the two halves of the bracket together. If at all possible, leave those alone or you'll have to re-adjust everything when you go to put it back in.
If it was me, I'd go ahead and take it apart to get the spring fixed right but that's just me and I've been off the road for two seasons
M
The other thing to look at before you get too deep is if you can drop that channel that holds the brake pedal without removing the column support bracket. Maybe the two bolts can be loosened and the brake channel slide out but somehow I'm not convinced about that.
I think the drivers dash would need to be removed to get that bracket set off since it's bolted pretty high at the front
If you do go in that deep, that bracket set controls where the column sits in relation to the drivers dash (up and down / left and right).
There are 4 carriage style bolts that hold the two halves of the bracket together. If at all possible, leave those alone or you'll have to re-adjust everything when you go to put it back in.
If it was me, I'd go ahead and take it apart to get the spring fixed right but that's just me and I've been off the road for two seasons
M
Last edited by Mooser; Jan 18, 2016 at 12:10 PM.
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 12,399
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From: San Jose CA
If you have 1-2 u-joints and a good set of extensions, taking the brake booster nuts out is annoying but not awful.
One of the upper bolt threads retaining the pedal box was stripped, so I had to grind the bolt head off to get the pedal box out. From the wiper tray. With a dremel. That was awesome.
One of the upper bolt threads retaining the pedal box was stripped, so I had to grind the bolt head off to get the pedal box out. From the wiper tray. With a dremel. That was awesome.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 8,117
Likes: 104
From: charlotte north carolina
When you remove the column, bracket and firewall support, scribe lines in all pieces so that it can be reassembled in exactly the same(factory correct) position. That is, the steering box, rag joint and column are all in a straight line.
Had a 1976 L-82, 4-sp
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 5,338
Likes: 1,213
From: Some days your the dog and some days your the hydrant.
Royal Canadian Navy
Remove the dash panel. It's easy but note where the connections go especially the the dash bulbs! I made a little sketch.