When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I am starting my rebuild of my 1970 350 300 hp. The car is not all original. Any suggestion for a intake and carb? The motor will be upgraded with a mild cam. Or should I stick with the stock setup?
Just make sure you get a combo that will fit under the hood. A good Edelbrock Performer or Air Gap is a good basic choice. The Q-Jet is a great carb and is the best alternative, in my opinion.
Just make sure you get a combo that will fit under the hood. A good Edelbrock Performer or Air Gap is a good basic choice. The Q-Jet is a great carb and is the best alternative, in my opinion.
All depends on how you want the feeling in the 'seat of your pants' is when you step on it.
If you are not out for blistering power....I would advise using the stock stuff. The Quadra-Jet is enough carb and will work fine...but also depends on what you are going to be doing with the car.
If you go with an Edelbrock intake and another carb...you can run into issues with the linkage bracket, an air cleaner that will work, the vacuum fitting location on the intake at the back, having to deal with a new fuel line set-up from the pump to the carb (which can NOW be GREATLY EFFECTED by heater hose fitting location in the intake).
IF you go with a new intake...MAKE SURE YOU RE-USE the fitting in the intake for your heater core due to the orifice is much smaller than what you might buy and THINK is correct.
A few ponies maybe, but the power is made in the heads and cam, so don't expect much with stock pieces. If you're doing the intake, the exhaust needs to be freed up also to see any real gains.
If you go with an Edelbrock intake and another carb...you can run into issues with the linkage bracket, an air cleaner that will work, the vacuum fitting location on the intake at the back, having to deal with a new fuel line set-up from the pump to the carb (which can NOW be GREATLY EFFECTED by heater hose fitting location in the intake).
DUB
This, so much this!! I have a crappy 1.5" air cleaner on mine right now because the throttle linkage bracket is in the way so a drop can't be installed.
I'm open to suggestions on a fix if anyone knows of one off the top of their head.
Thanks I would like to kick up the performance as much as possible. How much HP will a new carb and intake get you over the stock?
If your existing Qjet is working well, changing carb and intake won't provide any gains that you could feel. Setting up your ignition advance, exhaust improvements, upgrading camshaft, heads and gearing, in that order, is the way to go. Of course, you should upgrade the bottom end along the way.
If your existing Qjet is working well, changing carb and intake won't provide any gains that you could feel. Setting up your ignition advance, exhaust improvements, upgrading camshaft, heads and gearing, in that order, is the way to go. Of course, you should upgrade the bottom end along the way.
Thanks, the more I am hearing I am leaning towards keeping the stock intake and the Qjet. I plan to rebuild the bottom of the motor, upgrade the cam and rebuild the heads. Then add headers and new exhaust.
Thanks, the more I am hearing I am leaning towards keeping the stock intake and the Qjet. I plan to rebuild the bottom of the motor, upgrade the cam and rebuild the heads. Then add headers and new exhaust.
That's a good plan. Just fyi, I use a Qjet on the fairly mild 383 in my car and it has run 12.15 in the quarter, so a Qjet will not slow you down.
The only reason I am upgrading my intake is because I picked up a polished Edelbrock 21011 for $70, and it will look good. No performance reasons at all. If you want to dress up your engine, then do it. But performance gains are minimal. But in saying that, a nice higher flowing intake will support and compliment any future mods you may do.
If you're going to pull the heads off to get them rebuilt I would consider new heads.
Cost to rebuild your old heads could run quite a lot if valve guides need put in and springs need replaced, valve seals, not to mention valves may need replacing as well. When all done you may have a $800 or more set of stock heads that still don't flow any better.
Dart iron eagle ss heads with 165 cc runners and a 67 cc chamber to bump your compression a little, fully assembled run just over $1000.
Darts run big on the intake tract so 165 cc may be more like 172 or more, also 67 cc chamber may be more like 69 or 70. But GM ran big too. I found my 76 cc chambers to be as large as 80 cc's.
New springs, valves,guides and seals, and flow better than stock. Just a thought.
Thanks for all of the input. I plan to meet with a potential builder that has been recommended this coming weekend. I need to make a decision soon. The chassis if ready to go see pic.
This, so much this!! I have a crappy 1.5" air cleaner on mine right now because the throttle linkage bracket is in the way so a drop can't be installed.
I'm open to suggestions on a fix if anyone knows of one off the top of their head.
Start your own thread and post photos and then PM me so I can get a link to it.
I have been down this road more times than I can count where I have to custom make up stuff because I choose NOT to use some of the parts that GM offered ( such as the Holley fuel line for an LT-1).
Thanks, the more I am hearing I am leaning towards keeping the stock intake and the Qjet. I plan to rebuild the bottom of the motor, upgrade the cam and rebuild the heads. Then add headers and new exhaust.
I went through this with a customer who has an engine built for his 1974. He had a DART 400CID block with some good heads and use the Edelbrock intake and the Quadrajet and WITH the factory 1974 air cleaner. IT works perfectly.
The exhaust manifolds are STOCK 2-1/2" 'ram horn' design and had a special cast iron looking heat coating applied to them so all of the A/C brackets and such would work. And the car has WICKED POWER.
Custom bent and made stainless steel chambered exhaust from Allen's..and a Bow-tie overdrive 700r4 transmission....which is why the exhaust had to be custom made due the transmission pan shape is COMPLETELY different..and a stock system is WAY too close for my comfort.
SO...just to let you know it can be done....all it takes is careful measuring and using clay to verify heights where needed.
Another vote for just replacing the heads. I just picked up a set of Blue Print heads for about $900. 195cc intake, 64cc chamber, all aluminum... vs paying a shop to fix up my old heads. I feel good about the purchase.
On a side note, anyone want to buy some used cast phase II bowtie heads to help me recoup some of my costs of the new heads? Only 4 leaky valves and 2 busted off valve cover studs
Last edited by AboveTheLogic; Jan 25, 2016 at 07:36 PM.
Another vote for just replacing the heads. I just picked up a set of Blue Print heads for about $900. 195cc intake, 64cc chamber, all aluminum... vs paying a shop to fix up my old heads. I feel good about the purchase.
On a side note, anyone want to buy some used cast phase II bowtie heads to help me recoup some of my costs of the new heads? Only 4 leaky valves and 2 busted off valve cover studs
Hi AboveTheLogic
I saw your post and wanted to say thank you for your purchase of BluePrint Engine's Muscle Series aluminum heads.
Don't hesitate to contact if you have any questions on installation of your new heads. We are here to help.