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Well I finally got both mounts out! I broke down and got the removal tool. $15 bucks but worth it. Soaked with PB blaster for couple times first. Passenger side came out with 3 or 4 good shots with the heavy hammer. Driver side was a different story. Had to apply heat and lots of hitting. After about an hour it budged. Then presoaked with PB blaster some more and few more hits and it finally popped. Probable could re use them but got new mounts. Threads unharmed. Now for new strut rods.
I finally got my vette in the garage ahead of this Blizzard we are having and I'll be tackling a complete rear suspension rebuild. Good to know persistence gets the job done but I really don't want to crack the wallet open for the special tool.
I finally got my vette in the garage ahead of this Blizzard we are having and I'll be tackling a complete rear suspension rebuild. Good to know persistence gets the job done but I really don't want to crack the wallet open for the special tool.
I read on here last spring where folks were using 3/8" (if I remember correctly) black iron pipe caps in place of the special tool. I picked one up from the local home improvement store and it worked for me.
I tried to reuse my mounts after removing them. The passenger side mount turned in its socket and the shock fell off the mount. I noticed driving around that it got really bouncy and looked under and saw my new bilstein shock dangling down. That was lovely.
Well I finally got both mounts out! I broke down and got the removal tool. $15 bucks but worth it. Soaked with PB blaster for couple times first. Passenger side came out with 3 or 4 good shots with the heavy hammer. Driver side was a different story. Had to apply heat and lots of hitting. After about an hour it budged. Then presoaked with PB blaster some more and few more hits and it finally popped. Probable could re use them but got new mounts. Threads unharmed. Now for new strut rods.
I put anti seize on my mounts when I had them out. I have already had to take them off again. It went much smoother disassembling everything this go round.
I read on here last spring where folks were using 3/8" (if I remember correctly) black iron pipe caps in place of the special tool. I picked one up from the local home improvement store and it worked for me.
Yep...the pipe cap alternative good. I've also read some use mount nut to pound on. I knew it was gonna be a tough job so I wanted every edge. I was really more concerned with damaging the ears on trailing arms. The tool is a good solid piece the takes most of the impact and threads deep over the stud surface. But whatever works. Basically posted this for use by others taking on this repair.
I finally got my vette in the garage ahead of this Blizzard we are having and I'll be tackling a complete rear suspension rebuild. Good to know persistence gets the job done but I really don't want to crack the wallet open for the special tool.
You may not hafta get the "special tool", but just to make you shudder a bit....I'm 'bout 1/3 the way thru doin' my complete rear suspension:
My Front End Susp ran me $1,300 doin' ALL of it myself except for sandblast & pwdr coating.
Rear End Susp. is gonna run me right at $2,000, due to the fact that the trailing arm rebuild (VTechcorvette doing) is $575 w/ shipping, and I'm goin' w/ the composite rear spring @ $330, & new Bilstein shocks [I put Bilsteins on the front end as well] & new tubular control arms w/ Heim ends @ $195, plus all NEW Spicer U joints (non-greasable type) & paint/pwdr coating everything, including underside of car, plus I'm having the differential looked at (for visual mainly...but putting in new seals & they're taking out the U-bolts that I had to cut go get the half shafts out!) & new fluids...approx. $300...SO...I just wanted U to know what U MIGHT run into...after all, you know the phrase "As long as I'm in there, I might as well fix/replace".....[BTW...my shock mounts both had to be replaced, as the nuts snapped right off of both!]
SO...yer wallet WILL be opened up for ALL those "unexpected" little surprises that cost purdy good $$$$$!!!
I tried to reuse my mounts after removing them. The passenger side mount turned in its socket and the shock fell off the mount. I noticed driving around that it got really bouncy and looked under and saw my new bilstein shock dangling down. That was lovely.
Don't be like me.
:edit: here is what I'm talking about:
Wow! That's an interesting part failure.
Any idea what the root cause was?
I bought new mounts and they went back on real tight for me. Anti seize first, line it up in the slots.....and then hit, turn the nut to tighten, repeat. I beat the end of it up doing this so a brass hammer is better choice.
Wow! That's an interesting part failure.
Any idea what the root cause was?
The original stuck-on shock mounts that I had to muscle out were re-installed. From what I can tell, the ribs on the mounts just weren't up to the job of countering the forces from the shock. I put new mounts on and haven't had this problem at all. I drove the car for about 2 weeks on occasion before this failure occurred.
The original stuck-on shock mounts that I had to muscle out were re-installed. From what I can tell, the ribs on the mounts just weren't up to the job of countering the forces from the shock. I put new mounts on and haven't had this problem at all. I drove the car for about 2 weeks on occasion before this failure occurred.
There is a good sized flat on the threaded end, too. I figured that would have help keep the shock mount in place.
Regardless of what you choose for the job, the purpose of the removal tool is to protect the threads on the mount and to keep you from mushrooming the head when you pound on it driving it out.
Shock/Strut Rod Mounts.
