Hello,
Before anyone posts alignment, YES it is done, tires have been checked for pressure and rotated so that is not the issue, new VBP 460lb coil springs, new global west lower a arms, new 1 1/4 sway bar, new poly bushings on uppers, new ball joints, new PS pump and slave cylinder, new brakes all around pads and rotors.
I have all that done the steering is still wanting. It drives straight and doesn't fight you but when you let go of the wheel it starts turning itself right, not extreme but much past 2 to 3 seconds your in the next lane. There is no pull on the brakes, braking does not affect it whatsoever. Now that I am over the pnuemonia I can go out and check everything that they did while I was sick.
I just put on a new PS pump and slave as the old was leaking everywhere. Getting ready to go out and loosen upper a arm bolts and sway bar bolts as I am thinking the new poly bushings might be bound up since they lowered it after they had tightened all the bolts. Thinking since it was all tightened with no load on it very likely has some poly bushing binding or they didn't adjust the valve control screw after installing the new slave cylinder. Which would be causing my right pull issue.
Before I put on a new gear box or control valve I'd just replace it with Steeroids or VBP Rack Attack. Your opinions on which of the 2 are better or any issues you had installing them. Looks pretty simple installation. I thought that about my Jeep TJ when I went to put a 6" lift on it too, lol! That turned out to be a huge endeavor.

 

The Borgeson conversion is better than the rack conversions. None of the current serious professional autocross guys run a rack, they all use the Borgeson. Even the owner of Ridetech has stated that these cars are better suited to the Borgeson conversion.

 

I assume you know there is a crown in most roads to let water drain. If you are on a 2 lane highway in the left lane your car will tend to pull to the left when you let your hands off the wheel. The same goes if you are in the right lane, it will tend to pull to the right.

If you are in the left lane and it pulls to the right then try it on a few highways. If it always pull to the right even on a 3 lane highway then you have an issue. Sometimes tires will make it do this so maybe rotate the tires and see if the car behaves the same.

 

so what wrong with the stock steering?, I've driven cars with racks, they all feel the same to me

what are you benefiting with all that work and money?

 

The rack is the best option for the C3 in my opinion as most sports cars come with a rack form the factory.
Fewer connections for slop and better steering ratios for a sports car,

If you want it to stop pulling take it to a good shop and have them dial in more caster on the right side but as MotorHead said roads are crowned and grooved so it may not be consistent on all roads.

Neal

 

Its not the crown in the highway, I can take my hands off the wheel in a parking lot from a stop and move forward and watch the wheel turning itself right as I creep even at 5 mph. the faster I go the more it wants to pull right. Tires have been switched left to right with no change.

 

I guess you don't realize that the Borgeson conversion has fewer connections and a better ratio than the factory system.

This is a direct quote from Bret Voelkel, the owner of Ridetech:

Quoted from post #43 of this thread:

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ech-booth.html

 

If i am following you, you still have the stock control valve? there is a cover in the end of the control valve that you remove kind of like a front wheel bearing dust cap except it is flat. Inside there is a 7/16 nut that adjusts/centers the control valve. Barely turn that nut until it stops pulling.
It should already be close so that is why you should only turn it in tiny increments and then drive. Keep adjusting until you are satisfied.

 

Adjust the control valve, its probably just your power steering pushing the wheel slightly off centered.

I don't see anything really wrong with the factory steering as long as its in good working condition and adjusted properly.

 

I didn't see where the OP stated he had installed the ridetech suspension,

I believe he is still running the factory C3 suspension so no issues with the rack system.

The statement you quoted is discussing the ridetech suspension,

I had forgotten about the centering adjustment as centryoldracer has sugested, be careful while adjusting it can slam the wheels to one side if turned quickly. I would suggest you read up on how to make these adjustments.

Neal

 

Already did, I actually you tubed it last night when I thought of that. Its supposed to be in the 40's this week so I was waiting on it. They did put on a new slave cylinder with new bushings. If they did not adjust the valve after the extra rubber from new bushing may be enough to give it a slight push.

I'm no alignment specialist but as I'm reading the alignment sheet(what parts I can) and I dont think they are within specs of anything. I have the matching Global west upper a arms coming this week, I'm going to put them in when I put in VBP's 550 coils in and send back their 460 coils. My front end looks like a 4x4 right now.

 

After reviewing everything today about the Borgeson, I cant find one person upset with the Borgeson switch. It eliminates the PS control valve, slave cylinder, has a 12:1 ratio, a direct bolt in and half the price of a rack attack or steeroids. I do have a 6qt Moroso stroker pan and Hooker super comp sidepipes and I think the racks will be a lot more potential pain with those. I've seen several posts with guys trying to figure out how to solve header and other clearance problems as well as modifying the support brackets. So if I do decide to do a change it will probably be the Borgeson. The lock to lock improvement will be nice.

 

Two things cause pulling with the stock steering, control valve adjustment, and caster. The car will pull to the side with the least caster.

 

Yup that is why I said to go in tiny increments because it will rip your hands off if you crank on it as soon as you start the engine.

 

A few thoughts on the different options for a C3's steering...

If you are looking to retain the C3's OEM steering for whatever reason and cheapest route to a noticeable improvement to the OEM system, then hands down, a custom/blueprinted OEM box (NOT a standard rebuilt OEM box) is the way to go. I have a Gary Ramadei rebuilt box and the steering is better than when it was brand new from the factory with Zero play, great feel, and terrific steering response BUT it does still retain the 16:1 factory steering ratio which is a little slow by new car standards. This result is using the blueprinted box with the factory OEM power steering cylinder and PS control valve which have never been touched...probably would be even better when I rebuild those 2 components. The rag joint was replaced in the 90's with a GM Delco unit purchased from a dealer. Cost is Half of the borgeson conversion.

The Borgeson unit has 2 big advantages and probably would be the best upgrade choice for 99% of C3 drivers since this system eliminates the PS control valve and the power steering cylinder (and the rag joint if one chooses). Like I always say, anything that eliminates slop/play in the C3 suspension/steering (think of Heim joint struts rods/ spreader bars, poly upper/lower control arm bushings) will greater improve the steering response/handling/feel of a C3 and the Borgeson box falls in this category. In addition, running PS steering fluid to the Borgeson Box is a much better lubricant than grease in the OEM box. Remember though that the Borgeson box is STILL a recirculating ball steering box like the OEM box but with a 12:1 steering ratio versus the OEM box's 16:1 steering. To me it is the Borgeson steering ratio of 12:1 that is the BIG advantage over the OEM box, not really much of anything else (if the OEM PS valve and PS steering are in good working order like mine). I always wonder if there would be much of difference between a blueprinted/custom rebuilt OEM box IF it came with 12:1 ratio versus the Borgeson's 12:1 ratio...doubt it....Almost no car manufacturer utilizes recirculating ball steering any longer (BMW was using recirculating ball steering up to about 10 years ago, as an example, in their 5 series cars, believe it or not). R&P steering is simply easier to manufacturer, less costly to make, with better steering feel....BUT

As for Rack and Pinion conversions, I am not a fan for a C3 due to the cost, modifications needed to make it fit, and slight benefits over the Borgeson unit along with reduced turning radius (probably best for the track). Cost 50% more than the borgeson conversion.

Hope that helps!

 

Been there, done that........

 

Yep, already ordered the Borgeson unit, will be here tomorrow from Jegs $612.

 

Great price!

 

You'll like it. I had a blueprinted OEM box (done by Tracdogg2) and the Borgeson was still a big upgrade. I think what I didn't like about the factory setup was the assist. Due to the design it has a lag. Doing a quick left-right it always felt like the assist wasn't keeping up. The Borgeson has no problem keeping up. The other difference is that for some reason the steering wheel now feels like it has a direct connection to the wheels that was missing before. Maybe the lack of a connected feel was caused by the control valve?


I think a non-assist OEM box probably has great feel, but that wasn't an option for me with a big-block.

 

Thank you for this useful post. I did not realize you loose turning radius with a R&P set up as I was thinking about doing one. One of the things I love about the C-3 is the tight turning radius, U turn instead of 3 point. Didn't even know about Borgeson that sounds like a good route.