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70 Corvette Clutch Fork, Spring

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Old Jan 26, 2016 | 09:51 AM
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Default 70 Corvette Clutch Fork, Spring

Hi All,
I have been gone from this Great site for some time, sold my 69 and since have went through several 69 through 72 Corvettes and Z28s. Now I have a 70 coup 350/350 HP 4 speed , with 52 K Miles an #s matching, obviously I was in Question about the Mileage but after close inspection and a good tear down for cleaning and Paint I have to say things you would expect to be Worn look like new are tight and Original equipment. The two things that were not salvageable was the Intake and Carb they had been removed and set outside for 30+ years. The Intake I saved but the Carb was Done. The only other thing that I found was the Clutch Fork Throw Out Spring was Broken and appears to have been broken before my tare down. Now my Question is. I have several Clutch forks with good springs, I have seen this particular problem before having to buy a new Clutch Arm just because of the Spring. My thought is to Bolt and Nylock one of my good Springs to the Original Fork. This is something I have thought about over the Years, Your Thoughts on my Idea would be Greatly appreciated. My reason behind this is I am not sure I alone can get the Spring Rivet Hammered in as tight as original with out taking it some where to have it done. Thanks Again, Garry
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Old Jan 26, 2016 | 10:08 AM
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you can buy just the spring although they are kinda pricey and yes setting the rivet can be a challenge, if it was me I think I would not use a nylock but one of the metal locking nuts
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Old Jan 26, 2016 | 10:14 AM
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Default My experience, ....

Originally Posted by firstvett69
Hi All,
I have been gone from this Great site for some time, sold my 69 and since have went through several 69 through 72 Corvettes and Z28s. Now I have a 70 coup 350/350 HP 4 speed , with 52 K Miles an #s matching, obviously I was in Question about the Mileage but after close inspection and a good tear down for cleaning and Paint I have to say things you would expect to be Worn look like new are tight and Original equipment. The two things that were not salvageable was the Intake and Carb they had been removed and set outside for 30+ years. The Intake I saved but the Carb was Done. The only other thing that I found was the Clutch Fork Throw Out Spring was Broken and appears to have been broken before my tare down. Now my Question is. I have several Clutch forks with good springs, I have seen this particular problem before having to buy a new Clutch Arm just because of the Spring. My thought is to Bolt and Nylock one of my good Springs to the Original Fork. This is something I have thought about over the Years, Your Thoughts on my Idea would be Greatly appreciated. My reason behind this is I am not sure I alone can get the Spring Rivet Hammered in as tight as original with out taking it some where to have it done. Thanks Again, Garry
I had a clutch fork too with a bad spring. Previous owner had installed the clutch fork incorrectly around the throwout bearing. So, I just bought a new spring with new rivet at a much lower cost than buying the whole clutch fork and installed the new spring on my old clutch fork. Yes, agree, it was a little tricky to get the new spring riveted tight on the fork as I did not have any rivet tools either. You can either find something steel that has a dished end that fits the rivet head or make a dished end with a grinder (or large drill bit) from round rod and then hammer the other side. With some careful hammering I got mine to tighten up just fine. I installed rivet cold as I did not want to disturb the spring temper. I would buy a new spring at less than $20 if it were me. Hope this helps.

Last edited by 20mercury; Jan 26, 2016 at 10:28 AM.
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Old Jan 29, 2016 | 10:41 PM
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A new fork and spring is only 25 bucks on flea bay......mine broke too.
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Old Jan 30, 2016 | 02:42 AM
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Originally Posted by kjr6306
A new fork and spring is only 25 bucks on flea bay......mine broke too.

link to new fork & spring please...
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