I decided to fix the horn on my '68 that the PO had jury-rigged with a cheap Wal-Mart horn button screwed to the lower dash panel, a length of red 18 ga wire running from the fuse panel to the switch and then to the front of the car where bubba had fastened a single horn that looked (and sounded) like it was off a Vespa motor scooter. I replaced the "horn" with the two correct horns, plugged them into the wiring harness, spent 30 minutes with a mirror and light getting the correct green wire plugged into the horn relay and then started on the horn button in the steering wheel. I had all the parts needed, since I was not sure what I would find when I started to dig into bubba's work. First thing I found was PO had cut off the little arm on the horn contact. Everything below the hub appeared to still be there, since I could get the horn to blow by sticking a small screw driver down the insulated contact hole and then grounding the screw driver to the steering column. Everything seemed to be going well until I pulled the hub. I fastened my puller to the two threaded holes in the hub and started to pull. I was cranking the puller pretty hard when it finally let loose- or so I thought. Instead of the hub coming off the column, my puller pulled all of the threads out of one of the threaded holes on the aluminum hub.


So- I quit for the night and am trying to decide if I can thread larger holes in the hub so I can pull it or if I can run a ground wire thru the hub and fasten it to the contact piece of the horn button. BTW, I still have the Wal-Mart horn button, so that is an option too. I love these old cars. RA

 

If you are referring to the spline piece; reattach the steer wheel via the 6 screws, thread the castle nut back on until flush with top of shaft, now for the no no part : use your knees behind the wheel and use 2 fairly large sledge hammers [ 3 pounders] placing one on the nut, then smack it HARD. The pressure from your legs and the shocks loosens it. Safety glasses and HD gloves required. WARNING: Smacking two sledge hammers together is a no no as it has a tendency to cause the hammers to chip or shatter. Having a partner to swing the hammer is helpful. T

 

Thanks, Terry, but there is a little too much Bubba in your method. I plan on taking the steering column out of the car again.... not that much work....and using my shop press to get the splined hub off the steering shaft. Less chance of damaging the horn and turn signal parts or smashing my fingers.


"Having a partner to swing the hammer is helpful." This reminds me of the old Abbott and Costello joke. "I'll hold this and when I nod my head, hit it." and of course the other guy hits his head when he nods it.


RA

 

Odd that the puller pulled the threads out of the hub... You should be able to re-tap the holes to the next fine thread size up. If you do make sure to put grease in the hole and on the tap, this will help retain the metal flakes that come off and keep them out of the column.

For future notice.. when using the puller on one that feels stuck... When the puller is real tight, lightly tap on the hub while it's under a load from the puller. This will usually free the hub from the shaft. You may have to repaint the hub and be careful not to damage it..

Willcox

 

I left a message on your website asking if hub part # 36861 will fit a 68 without tilt wheel. The description states it is for 67 telescopic and 67-68 replacement. I want a replacement hub in hand in case I damage the one on the steering column while trying to get it off. Can you check? RA

 

i just checked that number on our site, the description is wrong. That hub fits 1963-1966 without tele wheel. I've corrected it...

68 without tele wheel was a hub all by itself.. it only fit 1968. We have the correct one but one look at this and I feel sure you'll go back to tapping new threads.

https://willcoxcorvette.com/catalogs...c_part_year=18

 

With respect for those that have gone before us and back in the day I thought I was a hot shot mechanic, one of my jobs included replacing a steer wheel that was worn down to the steel. Examining the job I noted there were no holes to use a puller to remove the steer wheel. I tried different ways of removal with no success and I'm sure the old timers by now were laughing at this hot shot. Ah, but this hot shot had one more way to remove this stubborn hand wheel. He had learned to respect the knowledge and experience of others. So he went up to one of them and humbly asked how. This particular gentleman [with a slight snicker on his face] took me over to my job and walked me through this procedure, it worked perfectly. As my career advanced to lead tech then supervisory and onto becoming service manager I passed that BUBBA method on to many of those that that worked in my department. So I thought that I might pass that 50+ year old tried and true BUBBA method on. T

 

I got the hub off the steering column using my shop press and promptly drilled two BFH (last word is holes) and tapped threads so I can used my puller next time. Also put anti-seize on the spline, added a new turn signal cam, horn contact plate and put the whole works back in- beep beep- it works. Corrected a bad ground wire for the heater- now heater fan works. Routed the antenna cable from radio to back, through bulkhead, installed new antenna- radio works. Finished last door ajar switch, which required removing access panel in wheel well- switch works. Added a second rear convertible compartment convenience light and separate on-off switch- lights work. Put all interior trim and kick panels back in place and vacuumed interior- interior looks nice. Selected mounting location for fire extinguisher on console between seats. Padded arm rest fits nicely over it. Removed all excess "bubba wires" and tidied up engine compartment. Took photo of car in its good condition before something else needs fixing. Sat down and took nap. RA

 

"You Da' Man!"