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I have installed the steeroids on my 82. I dimpled the #1 header and all clearance for the steering knuckles is good. The problem is the lines on the top of the rack actually make contact with my oil pan...wtf.
Has anyone else had this problem?
Do I just wanna bend the lines down?
do I now have to run a cooling unit for the p/s fluid?
I have a 7 qt pan and maybe I have to go back to a stock pan? now would be the time to do that I guess...
so many questions...
Any input will be appreciated.
Thanks
Fred
I have installed the steeroids on my 82. I dimpled the #1 header and all clearance for the steering knuckles is good. The problem is the lines on the top of the rack actually make contact with my oil pan...wtf.
Has anyone else had this problem?
Do I just wanna bend the lines down?
do I now have to run a cooling unit for the p/s fluid?
I have a 7 qt pan and maybe I have to go back to a stock pan? now would be the time to do that I guess...
so many questions...
Any input will be appreciated.
Thanks
Fred
I was looking into to doing that same thing that you have done. I am pretty sure you need to go back to a stock pan. I went with the Borgenson conversion instead of rack and pinion to avoid the issues you are having. It was also only $612 compared to $1300. You might want to think about going that route if its not to late to send the steeroids back.
That's odd - I am running a Milodon stroker oil pan and my steeroids lines all clear the pan (part number 30907). it's pretty deep, as I have a 4 inch stroke.
Are you possibly running older rubber mounts that may have compressed, or missing the spacer plates that sit between the mount and the block?
I remember some 16 years ago, doing my own rack install that the lines hit the pan so bent them down, but the rack bellows also hit the stock oil pan, so I took a 2x4 and a 3 lbs hand sledge to the bottom bulge of the pan, bent it up about 1/2 an inch to ensure clearance, and been that way since, not an issue.....too lazy to pull pan much less engine....so it got done from under not trying to reform the entire pan now, just ding it enough to clear......
That's odd - I am running a Milodon stroker oil pan and my steeroids lines all clear the pan (part number 30907). it's pretty deep, as I have a 4 inch stroke.
Are you possibly running older rubber mounts that may have compressed, or missing the spacer plates that sit between the mount and the block?
Your pan looks the same as my Moroso stroker 6qt pan.
I have a buddy who has done several old 70's car rack and pinions. He saw mine and said the only way would be to fabricate special mounting brackets for the rack components. I just took his word for it. I also have Hooker super comp sidepipe headers in there as well.
The Borgenson is a direct bolt in with no fabricating required just a little header denting. I just decided to go with the Borgenson, since I could not find one person regret the Borgenson conversion, several people that had both said the lock to lock on the Borgenson is shorter and the actual steering quality they could not tell a difference. Also the Borgenson was less then half the price of VBP Rack Attack or Steeroids.
I installed the rack when my last motor with a stock pan was in the car. I was worried about the clearance with the new stroker pan, but had no issues.
Hooker side pipes do require clearancing with the R&P's u-joint. That was the worst part of the installation for me.
I installed the rack when my last motor with a stock pan was in the car. I was worried about the clearance with the new stroker pan, but had no issues.
Hooker side pipes do require clearancing with the R&P's u-joint. That was the worst part of the installation for me.
Ur in Ohio as well, once I get my 72 done, if we are at a car show we could drive each others cars and see for ourselves the difference in steering, Rack vs Borgenson, lol! Then be able to answer everyones debate over which is better.
I might be open to that - we actually aren't that far apart - Clarksville is maybe 30-40 minutes from Monroe. I need to get the front end alignment checked first. I got it pretty close after some work last summer, but want to get it checked out by a professional. No one good (that I am aware of) near me.
Love the paint job by the way -Cool look, especially with the scoop. Body/Paint work is on my list, but only after I get past paying tuition for my daughter. I read the post about why you added the flames - too bad about the reason, but you definitely turned a negative into a positive.
Last edited by cooper9811; Jan 31, 2016 at 11:02 PM.
Fred, you shouldn't need to go back to a stock oil pan. Sometimes the hardlines get a little tweaked so it may require some minor bending by had to push them away from the pan. Also, cooper9811 nailed it concerning the engine mount rubber/dimensions in how they can vary by maybe 1/4". Our test car has had several different Milodon 7 qt pans and they have cleared without a problem.
You don't need to run a cooler, especially for street driving.