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As far as gas leak, sent carbs off to be restored, even though the fuel lines seemed almost impossible to connect there is a small leak on middle carb bottom side at phillips scew. Thought timing was ok but after warms up and u cut off it spits and spudders. Also factor temp gauge read 220 which is to high. Went with alumn radiator everything else is stock.
Cliff
As far as gas leak, sent carbs off to be restored, even though the fuel lines seemed almost impossible to connect there is a small leak on middle carb bottom side at phillips scew. Thought timing was ok but after warms up and u cut off it spits and spudders. Also factor temp gauge read 220 which is to high. Went with alumn radiator everything else is stock.
Cliff
Would it be too much trouble to tell us what you're dealing with?
What kind of car is it?
What year is it?
What engine is it"
OE tri-power or aftermarket?
You know, IMPORTANT facts like that................
Probably not. I`ll get you a reliable four barrel intake and carb and take that leaky tri power off you hands if you want.
LOL you beat me to it! In all seriousness yes you can and should be able to get it dialed in. The leak at the phillips screw is probably the accelerator pump diaphragm.
LOL you beat me to it! In all seriousness yes you can and should be able to get it dialed in. The leak at the phillips screw is probably the accelerator pump diaphragm.
Sorry for qns on car. 1968 427 tripower. All stock and original.
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I'm not sure the tripower is causing timing and overheating issues. After fixing the leak, I'd dial in the timing first then tackle the overheating. Back in the day my L89 tripower was my DD and was very reliable.
yes it can be dependable and reliable. problem you need to overcome is "all stock and original". a 48 year old original carb is going to need to be rebuilt (x3)...likely your ignition system as well. are you running the original TI box? is the cooling system all stock and original as well?
yes it can be dependable and reliable. problem you need to overcome is "all stock and original". a 48 year old original carb is going to need to be rebuilt (x3)...likely your ignition system as well. are you running the original TI box? is the cooling system all stock and original as well?
Had carbs rebuilt and restored at where I thought was a reliable place. Just finished rebuild. Distributor has been rebuilt (non point) and has an MSD box. Also bought alumn radiator
Would it be too much trouble to tell us what you're dealing with?
What kind of car is it?
What year is it?
What engine is it"
OE tri-power or aftermarket?
You know, IMPORTANT facts like that................
No not at all Big Toe
68 stingray L68 (427 3x2) OE tripower.
Only upgrade is alumn radiator, MSD Box and Rebuilt distributor
Sorry it took so long, busy saving lives. Fixed gas leak in center carb, was running hot and timing problems. I guess you can tell I am not a very good mechanic but enjoy it.
I'm not sure the tripower is causing timing and overheating issues. After fixing the leak, I'd dial in the timing first then tackle the overheating. Back in the day my L89 tripower was my DD and was very reliable.
Can you be a little more vague at describing your problems?
68 stingray L68 (427 3x2) OE tripower.
Only upgrade is alumn radiator, MSD Box and Rebuilt distributor
Sorry it took so long, busy saving lives. Fixed gas leak in center carb, was running hot and timing problems. I guess you can tell I am not a very good mechanic but enjoy it.
68 stingray L68 (427 3x2) OE tripower.
Only upgrade is alumn radiator, MSD Box and Rebuilt distributor
Sorry it took so long, busy saving lives. Fixed gas leak in center carb, was running hot and timing problems. I guess you can tell I am not a very good mechanic but enjoy it.
Had carbs rebuilt and restored at where I thought was a reliable place. Just finished rebuild. Distributor has been rebuilt (non point) and has an MSD box. Also bought alumn radiator
your carbs will not make your car over heat you got two separate problems, however wrong timing will affect the temp of the car. When you assemble the fuel line you might wanna use this plastic tape you wrap around the threads of the fuel line than screw it in snag. There a pain in the a-- there like 8 connections but once you get that done you can ajust the timing of the car. once you do all that time to adjust the a/f mixture of the center carb,there no adjustment for the end carbs. turn the two mixture screws all the way in ( clockwise) back them out half a turn so the motor runs, Get a vacuum gauge hook it up to the intake manifold with the engine at normal idle tune the screws one at a time counter clock wise whitching the vacuum gauge,as the vacuum rises the idle will rise too after you reach the high point if will fall you wanna kept the high point go to the other side and do the same thing now with that done the idle might be to high so just lower the idle to where you want it. Good luck
your carbs will not make your car over heat you got two separate problems, however wrong timing will affect the temp of the car. When you assemble the fuel line you might wanna use this plastic tape you wrap around the threads of the fuel line than screw it in snag. There a pain in the a-- there like 8 connections but once you get that done you can ajust the timing of the car. once you do all that time to adjust the a/f mixture of the center carb,there no adjustment for the end carbs. turn the two mixture screws all the way in ( clockwise) back them out half a turn so the motor runs, Get a vacuum gauge hook it up to the intake manifold with the engine at normal idle tune the screws one at a time counter clock wise whitching the vacuum gauge,as the vacuum rises the idle will rise too after you reach the high point if will fall you wanna kept the high point go to the other side and do the same thing now with that done the idle might be to high so just lower the idle to where you want it. Good luck
Thanks
Will follow directions. Center carb was leaking fuel realky bad. Lucky
Thanks for the info
I agree. But I have to wonder whether a tri-power big block for a daily driver would be the way to go.
well any carb'd vehicle from the 60's may not be the best choice for a daily driver, but you have to remember, the tri-power is really just a 2bbl carb 80% of the time and is just like any other 2bl v8 of the era...just has a couple extra carbs/barrels that are vacuum actuated under full throttle. not much different than a quadrajet in theory, just a few more failure modes possible with the extra carb body's/vacuum & fuel lines, etc...that is where people get tripped up once they've been apart and monkeyed with...