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Hi Guys, just purchased my first 79 vette.
I want to remove the seats to repaint them, etc...and cannot find the proper tool to remove the side funny looking nuts on the top part. What tool can I use for that?
Also blinkers stopped working, where is the blinker fuse located on a 79?
Hi Guys, just purchased my first 79 vette.
I want to remove the seats to repaint them, etc...and cannot find the proper tool to remove the side funny looking nuts on the top part. What tool can I use for that?
Also blinkers stopped working, where is the blinker fuse located on a 79?
Thanks in advance.
You do not have to separate the back from the seat bottom to remove the seat. Remove the two bolts holding the seat to the floor in front of the seat then slide the seat forward and remove the bolts holding the seat to the floor in the rear. You can fold the back of the seat forward, lift up and remove the seat.Take the seat apart on the work bench and work on it on your workbench.
The fuse box a 1979 it on the fire wall above your left foot close to where the master cylinder attaches. (Not easy to get to)
Last edited by thegazman; Feb 3, 2016 at 12:29 PM.
The acorn nuts on my seats fall off on their own. Can I have yours? They're actually just a press fit, FWIW.
Like thegazman said, it unbolts from the floor using the prescribed method. Even if you removed the seat bottom, IIRC the rails mount both from the bottom and the top(on at least one of the seats), so you wouldn't get out anyway.
There's a fuse as well as a cylinder in the upper corner (can't remember which one off the top of my head) of the fuse box called a "turn signal flasher" which can go bad and prevent the bulbs from flashing.
Awesome, thank you all, very helpful.
Will get to work!
Originally Posted by Shark Racer
The acorn nuts on my seats fall off on their own. Can I have yours? They're actually just a press fit, FWIW.
Like thegazman said, it unbolts from the floor using the prescribed method. Even if you removed the seat bottom, IIRC the rails mount both from the bottom and the top(on at least one of the seats), so you wouldn't get out anyway.
There's a fuse as well as a cylinder in the upper corner (can't remember which one off the top of my head) of the fuse box called a "turn signal flasher" which can go bad and prevent the bulbs from flashing.
Forgot to ask one more thing…there will always be one more thing right?
Driver side door does not close properly, have to slam it to close, sits low on the door handle end, it seems.
I checked the hinge pins and the top one has a play to it,the top bushing in it is not there or disintegrated.
Ordered new pins and bushings, bushings seem to be too big…damn…
when trying to pull the old top pin out, the pin head is to big and will not go past the door frame on the inside (where it curves in) w/o damaging the same.
Also it seems like the hole at the bottom of the top hinge does not line up with the other three. The bottom one that is.
any suggestions?
when trying to pull the old top pin out, the pin head is to big and will not go past the door frame on the inside (where it curves in) w/o damaging the same.
Also it seems like the hole at the bottom of the top hinge does not line up with the other three. The bottom one that is.
any suggestions?
Pictures are worth a 1000 words.
remove the hinge from the door and post. replace pin, reinstall?
Ive never had to do door pins. Can they even be done on the car?
remove the hinge from the door and post. replace pin, reinstall?
Ive never had to do door pins. Can they even be done on the car?
Yes, they're fairly annoying. You have to disconnect the mount in the door to take pressure off the pin. Some light hammering and prying will be involved as well. I reinstalled my pins from the bottom and set them up with a clotter pin so they wouldn't slide back out, although the knurling helps as well IIRC.
Forgot to ask one more thing…there will always be one more thing right?
Driver side door does not close properly, have to slam it to close, sits low on the door handle end, it seems.
I checked the hinge pins and the top one has a play to it,the top bushing in it is not there or disintegrated.
Ordered new pins and bushings, bushings seem to be too big…damn…
when trying to pull the old top pin out, the pin head is to big and will not go past the door frame on the inside (where it curves in) w/o damaging the same.
Also it seems like the hole at the bottom of the top hinge does not line up with the other three. The bottom one that is.
any suggestions?
79vette joe,
Welcome to the joys of working on a C-3. They take a lot of patience, perseverance and some creativity. When doing a project, I've found it usually takes a LOT longer than planned, and one ends up going 'deeper' into it that one originally thought. Just think of it as an opportunity to learn and to improve and restore your machine… a little at a time.
Here is a video of a hinge replacement, though it looks like a mid-70s model. Likely some, if not many things, carry over to our 79s.
Be sure to take lots of photos before disassembling things, get yourself an AIM (digital is really nice for searches) if you don't have one. Both really help to figure how things come apart, where lubrication is needed, and go back together.
This is awesome, thanks!
here is a pic of the car...
Originally Posted by G-Sting
79vette joe,
Welcome to the joys of working on a C-3. They take a lot of patience, perseverance and some creativity. When doing a project, I've found it usually takes a LOT longer than planned, and one ends up going 'deeper' into it that one originally thought. Just think of it as an opportunity to learn and to improve and restore your machine… a little at a time.
Here is a video of a hinge replacement, though it looks like a mid-70s model. Likely some, if not many things, carry over to our 79s.
Be sure to take lots of photos before disassembling things, get yourself an AIM (digital is really nice for searches) if you don't have one. Both really help to figure how things come apart, where lubrication is needed, and go back together.
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79 L82, How to remove seats
