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Power steering interchangability

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Old Feb 4, 2016 | 10:22 AM
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Default Power steering interchangability

So here's my story. I have a '77 and did the 350/454 swap. Added side pipes. Now Im looking into hydroboost (and then Steeroids). So I have the hydroboost unit on the way, and I bought a P/S pump with two return lines. (p/n: GM 15267670) Anyway, that pump is a press fit pulley and my current pump is keyed. (Since I went through all the trouble of getting pulleys, brackets, and such for the big block swap) So really my question is whether or not the Saginaw pumps are interchangeable with the reservoirs? So I can use my original over-priced pulley. Thanks....
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Old Feb 4, 2016 | 10:37 AM
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All 63-74 pump are keyed. The reservoirs will interchange on all the pumps. My suggestion is to take a day trip to Canton and have them build your pump with a keyed shaft. They will also leak check it and set the line pressure.
Mike
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Old Feb 4, 2016 | 10:53 AM
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Thanks for the info. My current pump is still pretty new, so I figured I'd swap out the pumps so I'd have a dual return for the hydroboost. I read too many mixed reviews about how bad the "T" in the line was so I might as well do it as best I can the first time. I was planning on just trying and see, but I figured I'd ask. Will I 'need' a rebuild kit? Do the o-rings or gaskets or anything tear easily on disassembly?
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Old Feb 4, 2016 | 10:58 AM
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Which pump pulley do you have? ... I believe there are 2 types ... 'cast iron' and 'stamped steel' (I'm guessing it's steel). I think the BB uses cast iron, and the SB uses the lighter stamped type. Hopefully other CF members will chime in with more particulars.

Good luck.
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Old Feb 4, 2016 | 11:03 AM
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I have monster cast iron pulley. I made the original big block setup (alt, p/s, a/c) Though the A/C is installed yet. Thats why I need to switch the pumps & reservoirs, to keep the keyed pump for the cast iron pulley.
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Old Feb 4, 2016 | 11:25 AM
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You will need the reseal kit, around 10 bucks. Change all the orings. The big round one for the res. and the three square cut orings on the backside. Don't use the bolts to pull the res on. Lube the large oring generously and take your time lining it up.
Mike
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Old Feb 5, 2016 | 04:59 PM
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Default I've done that.

77vet, I first fitted a Borgeson box to my '74 coupe, but later fitted a Hydroboost and am very pleased with the overall performance. I am still using the original '74 factory pump, but removed it and did some modifications. I brazed in a male dash 6 AN fitting in the neck of the reservoir (for the HB return) and replaced the factory return nipple with another dash 6 AN male fitting. So my HP line goes from the pump TO the HB, then FROM the HB TO the Borgeson, then FROM the Borgeson TO the pump with a much shorter hose that's fitted with a female dash 6 AN end. The HB return line goes straight to the (neck of) the pump.

A bit of a bird's nest of hoses, but it works well and does not leak. I also scrapped the factory master cylinder and distribution block and used an aluminum Holden master cylinder that has an inbuilt proportioning valve and this cleans up the brake line routing really well.

Hope this helps.

Regards from Down Under.

aussiejohn
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Old Feb 5, 2016 | 05:05 PM
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Thanks for the reply. Ive already ordered the dual return pump, HB, and seal kit. All I have left now is the fittings and lines. I plan on replacing the MC one of these days, just because I dont like the rusty color. If it works then Im good, if not then Ill just find another way. I'm looking forward to installing the fittings on the pump since using the stock connections are a PITA.
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Old Feb 5, 2016 | 05:54 PM
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+ 1 for the Borgeson, drives like a modern car and nothing under the engine except the drag link. I have HB also and used a dual return pump from a pick up truck.

Last edited by '75; Feb 5, 2016 at 05:54 PM.
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Old Feb 6, 2016 | 08:22 AM
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FYI, these are the locations that Saginaw recommends where you send your return flow back to the pump reservoir. You really want the flow to return where there is a head of fluid. You really don't want the fluid to "splash" back into the reservoir by locating the return up at the reservoir neck.



Please disregard the large spout on the very top of the pictured reservoir. That reservoir just happens to be a "remote fill" type where there is very limited access to the pump cap. Makes you wonder why Corvette didn't use that remote fill concept in order to gain access to fill the C2/C3 pump.
Jim

Last edited by Jim Shea; Feb 6, 2016 at 08:27 AM.
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Old Feb 7, 2016 | 01:56 AM
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Default I fully agree!

Originally Posted by Jim Shea
FYI, these are the locations that Saginaw recommends where you send your return flow back to the pump reservoir. You really want the flow to return where there is a head of fluid. You really don't want the fluid to "splash" back into the reservoir by locating the return up at the reservoir neck.
Jim
Jim, thanks for clearing that up, you are exactly correct. Initially, when I fitted the Borgeson, I brazed the return line into the neck and just plugged the stock return nipple. I did this to avoid the 180 degree turn in the return line and the difficulty in getting in there with a screwdriver or wrench. I had all sorts of problems when I first took it for a drive, the PSF was foaming because it was returning above the fluid level.

Then I pulled the pump out and brazed a dash-6 male AN fitting where the factory return nipple was and had a 90 degree female dash-6 AN fitting swedged onto the return line. I blocked the AN fitting in the neck and the system worked as it should have. Later, when I fitted a Hydroboost, I used the reservoir neck fitting for the HB return line and due to the minuscule amount of fluid returned from the HB, I have had no further problems.

However, if I recommend the HB to anyone else, I will suggest that they braze the return line into the reservoir body BELOW the fluid level line.

Regards from Down Under.
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Old Feb 7, 2016 | 04:22 PM
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Originally Posted by aussiejohn
Jim, thanks for clearing that up, you are exactly correct. Initially, when I fitted the Borgeson, I brazed the return line into the neck and just plugged the stock return nipple. I did this to avoid the 180 degree turn in the return line and the difficulty in getting in there with a screwdriver or wrench. I had all sorts of problems when I first took it for a drive, the PSF was foaming because it was returning above the fluid level.

Then I pulled the pump out and brazed a dash-6 male AN fitting where the factory return nipple was and had a 90 degree female dash-6 AN fitting swedged onto the return line. I blocked the AN fitting in the neck and the system worked as it should have. Later, when I fitted a Hydroboost, I used the reservoir neck fitting for the HB return line and due to the minuscule amount of fluid returned from the HB, I have had no further problems.

However, if I recommend the HB to anyone else, I will suggest that they braze the return line into the reservoir body BELOW the fluid level line.

Regards from Down Under.
John,
The secret is not only dumping the fluid back below the fluid level in the reservoir, but also you want to locate the return flow so that it is away from the pump intake in the housing. If the flow is directly at the intake any air in the fluid will not have a chance to rise to the surface in the reservoir.

As shown on my drawing, there are actually only three correct return spout locations.

Jim
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