what convertor for 700R4
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 302
Likes: 2
From: Sayville New york
what convertor for 700R4
winter is here so i am making the transmission conversion from turbo 400 to 700R4. the transmission is complete and i have to purchase convertor.1971 corvette with engine dyno. (10 pulls) 520 HP from 408".roller cam from 2000rpm to 6500,air gap intake 1500 up and gears are 3.55 . not a track car used for street and spirited driving 0 to 100mph. Nitto extreme drag radials 275/60/15 and suspension work. nobody on this forum ever mentions the rpm convertor they used with O/D trans with no lock up .love to have a consensus of opinions.
Last edited by Captain bob; Feb 6, 2016 at 03:44 PM.
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,346
Likes: 160
From: new iberia la
I run a 2500 Stall with my 700r4 525HP Stroker, 3.73 gears. Why would you not want a Convertor lock-up? You can always install a manual over-ride for your "spirited" driving days ..and still lock up at cruising speeds.. I highly recommend an auxiliary cooler with any high stall T/C ..... Slip = Heat
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,714
Likes: 42
From: Austin Texas
I have had a great experience with these guys also. Give Lane a call or really any of them.
Check this out, I ordered a 2600 converter for my TH400. Then, I swapped out to a 2004R. Turns out they have a policy for this. You can send your old unit in and they rebuild it for $175 (i think). So they swapped me to a 2004r converter for the price of a rebuild. THAT is the kind of guys they are.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 302
Likes: 2
From: Sayville New york
i really wanted to know the rpm every body was using and why. i have a friend with transmission shop and i use his special high performance convertor builder just wanted pros and conns of actual driving different between 2500 rpm and 2800 plus rpm or whatever you have encountered . rule number one Never build with lock-up i could care less about 180 rpm as compare to having murphy`s law (clutch) in the convertor.
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,346
Likes: 160
From: new iberia la
i really wanted to know the rpm every body was using and why. i have a friend with transmission shop and i use his special high performance convertor builder just wanted pros and conns of actual driving different between 2500 rpm and 2800 plus rpm or whatever you have encountered . rule number one Never build with lock-up i could care less about 180 rpm as compare to having murphy`s law (clutch) in the convertor.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
Your most important call will be to a quality performance converter manufacturer. Search the web for list of manufacturers; ask around (here and elsewhere) for which of them is GOOD (design, quality, performance, reliability, warranty); and make your selection. THEN, call them and ask for their technical group. They will ask you questions about your car/engine/drivetrain and how you will be using the car. With that info, they will offer you 2 or 3 possibilities which will best serve your needs and you can make the final choice.
One glaring issue is whether you want the converter to have a lockup function in it (or not). My understanding is that if you get that feature and it is NOT turned 'on', the transmission will operate just like one without L/U and it will still be just as reliable and durable as one which does not have the L/U feature. Check this out thoroughly with the manufacturer so that you have all the info needed to make a good decision on this. If the L/U feature will cause no loss of tranny strength/reliability when you put mega-power thru the trans, then you should get the L/U feature and use it when you drive on the street. If so, you will need a L/U controller to make it operate properly. (A simple switch is NOT the way to hook it up.)
One glaring issue is whether you want the converter to have a lockup function in it (or not). My understanding is that if you get that feature and it is NOT turned 'on', the transmission will operate just like one without L/U and it will still be just as reliable and durable as one which does not have the L/U feature. Check this out thoroughly with the manufacturer so that you have all the info needed to make a good decision on this. If the L/U feature will cause no loss of tranny strength/reliability when you put mega-power thru the trans, then you should get the L/U feature and use it when you drive on the street. If so, you will need a L/U controller to make it operate properly. (A simple switch is NOT the way to hook it up.)
Last edited by 7T1vette; Feb 6, 2016 at 06:30 PM.
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 1,170
Likes: 201
From: Willoughby Ohio
. I think you meant http://www.ptcrace.com/ .
I have had a great experience with these guys also. Give Lane a call or really any of them.
Check this out, I ordered a 2600 converter for my TH400. Then, I swapped out to a 2004R. Turns out they have a policy for this. You can send your old unit in and they rebuild it for $175 (i think). So they swapped me to a 2004r converter for the price of a rebuild. THAT is the kind of guys they are.
I have had a great experience with these guys also. Give Lane a call or really any of them.
Check this out, I ordered a 2600 converter for my TH400. Then, I swapped out to a 2004R. Turns out they have a policy for this. You can send your old unit in and they rebuild it for $175 (i think). So they swapped me to a 2004r converter for the price of a rebuild. THAT is the kind of guys they are.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 1,170
Likes: 201
From: Willoughby Ohio
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 21,953
Likes: 1,445
From: Reno Nevada
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified
behind my two solid rollers I used the precision industries Vigilante 9.5 inch 3500 and 3800 stall with 700R4
don't take advice from someone who has never used a 9.5 inch. Mine was also multi disk
don't take advice from someone who has never used a 9.5 inch. Mine was also multi disk
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 1,170
Likes: 201
From: Willoughby Ohio
George is correct about the multi disk lockup converter if you go that route. Most people will suggest a 3000 to 3500 stall for your build. I would talk to the builder of your transmission and get his input also.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 8,351
Likes: 75
From: Tampa Bay FL
i really wanted to know the rpm every body was using and why. i have a friend with transmission shop and i use his special high performance convertor builder just wanted pros and conns of actual driving different between 2500 rpm and 2800 plus rpm or whatever you have encountered . rule number one Never build with lock-up i could care less about 180 rpm as compare to having murphy`s law (clutch) in the convertor.
Last edited by TedH; Feb 10, 2016 at 05:51 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 21,953
Likes: 1,445
From: Reno Nevada
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified
highly efficient 9.5's have very little slip when cruising down the freeway. At some power level up in the 600's even multi disk lockups fail from excessive load like WOT at high speeds.
When my multi disk failed it was no big deal I drove it without lockup for about two years before pulling it out and getting a 5 speed
When my multi disk failed it was no big deal I drove it without lockup for about two years before pulling it out and getting a 5 speed
Team Owner
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 43,136
Likes: 155
From: Thomson Georgia
I run a 2500 Stall with my 700r4 525HP Stroker, 3.73 gears. Why would you not want a Convertor lock-up? You can always install a manual over-ride for your "spirited" driving days ..and still lock up at cruising speeds.. I highly recommend an auxiliary cooler with any high stall T/C ..... Slip = Heat
