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Fella's........boy it's been a year I bet, since I posted anything.
But here's a question I need help with.
I need to change that rubber bushing under the rearend on our 81.
Anyone have a youtube vid or just some advice getting it out and in?
Make this real easy.............
Bryan in calif. 72 degrees and sunny....
72 degrees! All I can say, is, 50 more mornings to April. So, I replaced my snubber when I put the diff in after a rebuild. I think you'll need to remove the drive shaft to give yourself enough room to get to it. It is tight. I hope someone else will chime in to confirm. Mine is a 72, there might be some differences in the 81. I don't know if you will have to remove the mounting bracket or not. It's not difficult, but it is awkward.
Last edited by mortgageguy; Feb 10, 2016 at 09:05 PM.
Thanks for the reply.
I was looking over youtube vids, and noticed the earlier models have a front bracket/mount pad that can be unbolted for easy access.
Such lucky people...
Not so on the bat wing cars.
The snubber cushion is not that hard to replace on your car. The issue you'll have is that all that is available is the 1979 and older style which will require you to slightly enlarge the mounting hold in the front.
Yes......thanks willcox.
However, I can't pry that thing down for nothing or nobody.
Bolts out, seems loose, but it requires something more to pull that thing down.
Cars on jack stands placed on the frame (under bird cage).
I thought rolling it up on ramps may take the load off, But nope.
So I removed the spring bolts from the trailing arms as well.
Nope.
Ok.....who you gonna call.......
Yes......thanks willcox.
However, I can't pry that thing down for nothing or nobody.
Bolts out, seems loose, but it requires something more to pull that thing down.
Cars on jack stands placed on the frame (under bird cage).
I thought rolling it up on ramps may take the load off, But nope.
So I removed the spring bolts from the trailing arms as well.
Nope.
Ok.....who you gonna call.......
There's no moving that diff to repalce that bushing unless you losen the two bolts that holds the cross member. Spray some rust free type lubricant around the mounting pad (cone shape), then losen the two bolts that holds it. DO NOT REMOVE them all the way. the lubricant should losen the mount pad to the point it will drop on its own, if not pry on it until it drops. That should give enough room to move the diff and extract the large bushing. good luck.
Ok........the cross member your talking about is what the bat wing
is bolted to, correct?
I removed the two bolts. Maybe I better slide them back in. and try again.
I noticed the bracket attaching the strut rods could be loosened, and
maybe that would let the rear rotate down. With the jack supporting.
Keep it coming guys.
There's a trailing arm bushing video on you tube that does a good job on how to break down each side. Dropping the batwing is pretty much self explainitory. Those bushing hold up pretty good and if they don't look bad, I would leave them alone. The trailing arm in the tough one if you have the high mileage , well used corvette. A sawzaw will be your friend. I'll be doing mine this winter on my 82.
Ok........the cross member your talking about is what the bat wing
is bolted to, correct?
I removed the two bolts. Maybe I better slide them back in. and try again.
I noticed the bracket attaching the strut rods could be loosened, and
maybe that would let the rear rotate down. With the jack supporting.
Keep it coming guys.
My apologies. I forgot to mention the leaf spring must be disconnected from the trailing arm. Yes. I recommend you put the bolts back in and live them lose, and as mentioned losing up the strut rod mounting bolts will also allow the diff to move easier.
I have to knock off for today.
Put the bat wing bolts back in to hold things. (loose). Removed the end bolts for the leaf spring to take pressure off of the diff. Put the floor jack at the spring/diff mount. That makes the diff easier to pry downward.
Fighting a leaking down floor jack. Like I have 3 hands. (Lucky if I have all my fingers when I get done)....
Thanks willcox for the pic. Rest of you guys too.....
Okay.......................Whew, Got it done. Not going there again. I took a look at the rubber type, and made a Teflon bushing to fit in it's place.
Now I'm bleeding the brakes. (And I'm bleeding as well).
Another problem arose as I'm removing the RH wheel. Nuts are off, wheel is loose, But I can't slide the stinking thing off the lugs. Just rocks. I'm thinking I'll put the wheel back on
Drive the car back and forth with the nuts loose and see if it make a diff.
Block of wood.............Give me some more info. Sounds like it's in my budget....
p.s. This wheel always does this. I just keep forgetting.
(hard to find good help).