Which pushrods to use?
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
Which pushrods to use?
Hi!
I´m swapping he cam at my 69 427/390hp to the "COMP Cams Xtreme Energy Cam".
While I´m at it, I also would buy new push-rods. I was told, if the stock ones are in good shape, I can reuse them. But how do I see if they are good or not?
And if not, it is confusing me because there are so many different pushrods, I don´t know which ones to use.
Please can you help me?
I´m swapping he cam at my 69 427/390hp to the "COMP Cams Xtreme Energy Cam".
While I´m at it, I also would buy new push-rods. I was told, if the stock ones are in good shape, I can reuse them. But how do I see if they are good or not?
And if not, it is confusing me because there are so many different pushrods, I don´t know which ones to use.
Please can you help me?
#2
Safety Car
Three things to look for:
1) roll the pushrods on a flat surface and make sure it's not bent.
2) inspect the ends of the push rods for wear, damage and deformation, if one of the lobes went flat the ends of the pushrod(s) might be beat up, anything that involves a valve train issue is likely to damage the ends of the push rod as will lack of oil.
3) make sure that the oil port through the center is open and clean of debris, not plugged off. more than likely if the push rod is plugged off, it will show damage at the rocker end due to lack of lubrication.
Since your only changing the cam and lifters, you might be able to get away with out measuring the geometry of the rocker, unless your going with a lot taller lifter such as a roller lifter or are changing the heads, I don't think it would cause enough geometry difference to be an issue, you could always measure the length of the lifters and compare to see how far off they would be and post what the difference is. I've never had to change pushrods with just a camshaft change. If you do end up buying new push rods buy one piece, they cost a little more but are tougher and if you are buying new pushrods it wouldn't hurt to measure the geometry to be sure that you've got the right size.
1) roll the pushrods on a flat surface and make sure it's not bent.
2) inspect the ends of the push rods for wear, damage and deformation, if one of the lobes went flat the ends of the pushrod(s) might be beat up, anything that involves a valve train issue is likely to damage the ends of the push rod as will lack of oil.
3) make sure that the oil port through the center is open and clean of debris, not plugged off. more than likely if the push rod is plugged off, it will show damage at the rocker end due to lack of lubrication.
Since your only changing the cam and lifters, you might be able to get away with out measuring the geometry of the rocker, unless your going with a lot taller lifter such as a roller lifter or are changing the heads, I don't think it would cause enough geometry difference to be an issue, you could always measure the length of the lifters and compare to see how far off they would be and post what the difference is. I've never had to change pushrods with just a camshaft change. If you do end up buying new push rods buy one piece, they cost a little more but are tougher and if you are buying new pushrods it wouldn't hurt to measure the geometry to be sure that you've got the right size.
Last edited by bluedawg; 02-13-2016 at 03:47 PM. Reason: Attack of the drunken Ferrets, stealing your sardines and gang rapping your cat....
#3
Team Owner
Member Since: Oct 2004
Location: altered state
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St. Jude Donor '05
Best wishes for the cat BD
#5
Le Mans Master
One piece 3/8" diameter is what you should use. If your old ones have welded ***** on the ends.....get rid of them!
Something like these: http://www.competitionproducts.com/images/CC7372-16.gif
Something like these: http://www.competitionproducts.com/images/CC7372-16.gif
Last edited by Solid LT1; 02-14-2016 at 01:32 AM.
#6
Dr. Detroit
Member Since: Mar 2012
Location: New Braunfels Texas
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I agree with replacing them with swaged one piece units.....
Trends performance in Michigan makes most of the one piece pushrods for the aftermarket...
They also make wrist pins and are owned by Diamond Pistons.
http://trendperform.com/
Jebby
Trends performance in Michigan makes most of the one piece pushrods for the aftermarket...
They also make wrist pins and are owned by Diamond Pistons.
http://trendperform.com/
Jebby
#8
Safety Car
I can't stress enough about break in! I've only wiped out one cam that I installed in my life and it was a BBC 427. Use the correct lube on the lobes, lifters and pushrods ends. Use the break in oil with the high levels of additives. Make sure when that engine fires it's ready to go 20 minutes at high alternating RPMs and change out that break in oil when recommended. I would even run new break in oil a second cycle. Always use the additive or correct performance oil for the life of the engine.
I wiped my cam because I had to shut my engine down 5 minutes into the break in and then restarted it. Back then we didn't have additive on the market yet and I was using diesel oil. Very expensive lesson.
#9
With all do respect. BBC have heavier valves, more weight in the rocker arm, takes more valve spring pressure to control the valves. The push rods are real long more prone to flexing, then you add in the push rod is being pushed on at a 4 degree angle instead of strait like a sbc with short length push rods. The rocker arms check them out really good for wear in the push rod cup there a lot more wear prone then a sbc. bottom line good push rods are the right way to go in any BBC regardless if its a hydraulic cam or anything else. If your broke on your *** try to use the original stuff. But remember this point everything has a life cycle and how close to used up is the metal in your original push rods for the price tag of far superior thicker chrome moly new stuff.
You are also using an extreme energy cam that has a far more quick opening rate, higher lift then what the factory used and will need stiffer then original valve springs to control everything. BUY YOURSELF SOME GOOD PUSH RODS. Not the welded up thinner wall tubing factory junk.
Last edited by Little Mouse; 02-16-2016 at 10:06 PM.