Motive Power Bleeder Question.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 546
Likes: 7
From: Kansas
I just worry that the reservoir will go empty seeing the calipers are bone dry.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 1,052
Likes: 389
From: Woodinville WA
My wife would have come back with sea clams.
I would use gravity to fill up most of the system, then the 'dry' pressure bleeder for the remaining air bubbles.
I would use gravity to fill up most of the system, then the 'dry' pressure bleeder for the remaining air bubbles.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 546
Likes: 7
From: Kansas
Racer
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 373
Likes: 6
From: Dover Delaware
Hope the suggestions using C clamps works...For all and any forum members looking to purchase a used "one time" to pressure check the system Motive Bleed Kit I will make them a very good price offer....
I had better luck using the "gravity bleed" procedure....
mk's78
Mike
I had better luck using the "gravity bleed" procedure....
mk's78
Mike
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 943
Likes: 73
BEVO76
I don't have a Motive bleeder, I have a 20 year old Snapon, so I don't know how the Motive is set up. As suggested, use a quick connect where the hose attaches to the plate that covers the master. Doing this allows for a male fitting to be inserted into the quick connected to bleed the air from the line before connecting to the plate. While bleeding, I always keep brake fluid in the unit, you have to remove the plate to constantly check the fluid level without it. You really don't want to be sending air down into the system. I place rags, old tee shirts under and around the master to catch any fluids. Not only are you bleeding the system, you are also flushing it, bleed until you get clear, clean fluid. Connect a clear hose to the bleeder fitting and down to an empty 20oz plastic bottle. Put the hose close to the bottom of the bottle and as the bottle gets some fluid in it you should see the small bubbles of air come out. When you move to another wheel, don't forget you will get bubbles as the air empties just from the hose itself. When your done and the pedal is nice and hard, pop the bleeder plate off, use your new turkey baster to bring the level to spec's and put the lid back on. Check the condition of the rubber liner on the lid first.
I don't have a Motive bleeder, I have a 20 year old Snapon, so I don't know how the Motive is set up. As suggested, use a quick connect where the hose attaches to the plate that covers the master. Doing this allows for a male fitting to be inserted into the quick connected to bleed the air from the line before connecting to the plate. While bleeding, I always keep brake fluid in the unit, you have to remove the plate to constantly check the fluid level without it. You really don't want to be sending air down into the system. I place rags, old tee shirts under and around the master to catch any fluids. Not only are you bleeding the system, you are also flushing it, bleed until you get clear, clean fluid. Connect a clear hose to the bleeder fitting and down to an empty 20oz plastic bottle. Put the hose close to the bottom of the bottle and as the bottle gets some fluid in it you should see the small bubbles of air come out. When you move to another wheel, don't forget you will get bubbles as the air empties just from the hose itself. When your done and the pedal is nice and hard, pop the bleeder plate off, use your new turkey baster to bring the level to spec's and put the lid back on. Check the condition of the rubber liner on the lid first.
Racer
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 479
Likes: 93
From: Tennessee
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 546
Likes: 7
From: Kansas
BEVO76
I don't have a Motive bleeder, I have a 20 year old Snapon, so I don't know how the Motive is set up. As suggested, use a quick connect where the hose attaches to the plate that covers the master. Doing this allows for a male fitting to be inserted into the quick connected to bleed the air from the line before connecting to the plate. While bleeding, I always keep brake fluid in the unit, you have to remove the plate to constantly check the fluid level without it. You really don't want to be sending air down into the system. I place rags, old tee shirts under and around the master to catch any fluids. Not only are you bleeding the system, you are also flushing it, bleed until you get clear, clean fluid. Connect a clear hose to the bleeder fitting and down to an empty 20oz plastic bottle. Put the hose close to the bottom of the bottle and as the bottle gets some fluid in it you should see the small bubbles of air come out. When you move to another wheel, don't forget you will get bubbles as the air empties just from the hose itself. When your done and the pedal is nice and hard, pop the bleeder plate off, use your new turkey baster to bring the level to spec's and put the lid back on. Check the condition of the rubber liner on the lid first.
I don't have a Motive bleeder, I have a 20 year old Snapon, so I don't know how the Motive is set up. As suggested, use a quick connect where the hose attaches to the plate that covers the master. Doing this allows for a male fitting to be inserted into the quick connected to bleed the air from the line before connecting to the plate. While bleeding, I always keep brake fluid in the unit, you have to remove the plate to constantly check the fluid level without it. You really don't want to be sending air down into the system. I place rags, old tee shirts under and around the master to catch any fluids. Not only are you bleeding the system, you are also flushing it, bleed until you get clear, clean fluid. Connect a clear hose to the bleeder fitting and down to an empty 20oz plastic bottle. Put the hose close to the bottom of the bottle and as the bottle gets some fluid in it you should see the small bubbles of air come out. When you move to another wheel, don't forget you will get bubbles as the air empties just from the hose itself. When your done and the pedal is nice and hard, pop the bleeder plate off, use your new turkey baster to bring the level to spec's and put the lid back on. Check the condition of the rubber liner on the lid first.
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Hello Mike,
I'm interested How good a price
Marshal
I'm interested How good a price
Marshal
Hope the suggestions using C clamps works...For all and any forum members looking to purchase a used "one time" to pressure check the system Motive Bleed Kit I will make them a very good price offer....
I had better luck using the "gravity bleed" procedure....
mk's78
Mike
I had better luck using the "gravity bleed" procedure....
mk's78
Mike
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 8,117
Likes: 104
From: charlotte north carolina
Do not pump the Motive to high pressure. If the pressure is too high, the fluid will fill the calipers so fast that air bubbles will be trapped. Also, tap the caliper with a rubber mallet as it fills to help dislodge small bubbles.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 546
Likes: 7
From: Kansas
I didn't get instructions with the Motive (odd). But from what I am tracking you only pump it up to 10psi let it sit to verify no leaks and then start bleeding.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 8,117
Likes: 104
From: charlotte north carolina
10 pounds is excessive. 3 or 4 pounds pressure is more than adequate. The fluid has a very low viscosity and doesn't need much force to force it through the lines. A lower pressure may take a few seconds longer to fill the calipers, but fewer air bubbles will be trapped.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 943
Likes: 73
Sending some good vibrations into the caliper is a good point. It doesn't have to be a rubber mallet if you don't have one. A wooden hammer handle, small brass hammer, screwdriver handle, anything to get some vibrations going. I start out with putting 25 psi in my system (snapon), it has a large tank and a long hose so there is some pressure drop, but I don't have to keep putting air back into it after each caliper. 10 psi might be a lot for the Motive tank, I would try what the manufacturer recommends, try their web site. I do each bleeder multiple times before moving on to the next wheel or until I don't see any more air bubbles (clean, clear fluid). Bleed the wheels in the correct order and I usually do it one more time after I get a good pedal just to make sure. If you have a particularly difficult time, I have used Russell speed bleeders in the past that solved the problem. Patience is the key and maybe a beer or two.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 546
Likes: 7
From: Kansas
Update....bleed the brakes and thought I had a bad caliper on the passenger rear because there was a small leak on the bottom of the trailing arm under the hub assembly. This leak only presented itself after I pressure tested the system at 10 psi (held that pressure for over an hour) and bleed the brakes.
Today I tore everything apart caliper and all on the right rear just to see if it was bad. But I didnt see anything abnormal. So I pressure tested the system again and this time there was no leak. However, I noticed a drip on the drivers side after everything was complete but the passenger side was fine.
When I bleed the brakes there are ZERO bubbles in the fluid with a firm pedal.
Im starting to think that when I go to bleed the brakes using the bleeder that some leaks by the clear hose and runs down the back side of the caliper. This would explain the NO loss in pressure or ZERO bubbles when bleeding. Therefore the small leak I think I am seeing is just residual fluid from the bleeding process when I remove the clear hose from the bleeder.
Anyone see this happen before?
Today I tore everything apart caliper and all on the right rear just to see if it was bad. But I didnt see anything abnormal. So I pressure tested the system again and this time there was no leak. However, I noticed a drip on the drivers side after everything was complete but the passenger side was fine.
When I bleed the brakes there are ZERO bubbles in the fluid with a firm pedal.
Im starting to think that when I go to bleed the brakes using the bleeder that some leaks by the clear hose and runs down the back side of the caliper. This would explain the NO loss in pressure or ZERO bubbles when bleeding. Therefore the small leak I think I am seeing is just residual fluid from the bleeding process when I remove the clear hose from the bleeder.
Anyone see this happen before?
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 546
Likes: 7
From: Kansas
Update....bleed the brakes and thought I had a bad caliper on the passenger rear because there was a small leak on the bottom of the trailing arm under the hub assembly. This leak only presented itself after I pressure tested the system at 10 psi (held that pressure for over an hour) and bleed the brakes.
Today I tore everything apart caliper and all on the right rear just to see if it was bad. But I didnt see anything abnormal. So I pressure tested the system again and this time there was no leak. However, I noticed a drip on the drivers side after everything was complete but the passenger side was fine.
When I bleed the brakes there are ZERO bubbles in the fluid with a firm pedal.
Im starting to think that when I go to bleed the brakes using the bleeder that some leaks by the clear hose and runs down the back side of the caliper. This would explain the NO loss in pressure or ZERO bubbles when bleeding. Therefore the small leak I think I am seeing is just residual fluid from the bleeding process when I remove the clear hose from the bleeder.
Anyone see this happen before?
Today I tore everything apart caliper and all on the right rear just to see if it was bad. But I didnt see anything abnormal. So I pressure tested the system again and this time there was no leak. However, I noticed a drip on the drivers side after everything was complete but the passenger side was fine.
When I bleed the brakes there are ZERO bubbles in the fluid with a firm pedal.
Im starting to think that when I go to bleed the brakes using the bleeder that some leaks by the clear hose and runs down the back side of the caliper. This would explain the NO loss in pressure or ZERO bubbles when bleeding. Therefore the small leak I think I am seeing is just residual fluid from the bleeding process when I remove the clear hose from the bleeder.
Anyone see this happen before?
Pro
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 669
Likes: 255
From: Duluth Georgia
The exact same thing you've describe happened to me and that's exactly what it was, a little gets past the clear tubing when you remove it from the bleeder.. I wiped mine down really good afterwards but probably a drip or two can get by.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 546
Likes: 7
From: Kansas
If something was wrong with the caliper I assume I wouldnt hold 10 psi for over a hour when pressure testing and I wouldn't be able to get the air bubbles out of the lines/caliper.