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Getting ready to bleed the brakes this week. Does the metal plate that goes over the master cylinder / brake fluid reservoir actually work or do I need C-clamps? I have seen some use both methods, but I want to make sure I have everything I need before I start. Im used to having the wife pump the pedal for an hour. Apperently this is much easier......we will see!
I just bled my '73 with the Motive Pressure Bleeder and it worked great. I really struggled in the past to get a firm pedal due to the dual bleeders. The Motive system was really quick, basically just the time it took to remove and replace the wheels. Once I pressurized the tank it held enough pressure for all four wheels. I too used two clamps to hold it on instead of the chains. One bit of advice, be a little careful when you release the pressure. Good luck.
I just bled my '73 with the Motive Pressure Bleeder and it worked great. I really struggled in the past to get a firm pedal due to the dual bleeders. The Motive system was really quick, basically just the time it took to remove and replace the wheels. Once I pressurized the tank it held enough pressure for all four wheels. I too used two clamps to hold it on instead of the chains. One bit of advice, be a little careful when you release the pressure. Good luck.
Awesome great tips....thanks for the heads up.
Im guessing you just pressureize the system with the tank and then open the bleeders one at a time untill there are no more bubbles and then close the bleeder.
How often were you filling the reservoir when you were bleeding or does the tank manage that piece?
If the tank when pressurized keeps the reservoir full did you have to suck some out when you were finished?
Im assuming this is the tricky part when you release the pressure? How did you do it? Can you just slowly unscrew the tank cap to let the pressure out? That would make sence to me.
Tank will keep reservoir full as long as you have pressure and enough fluid in tank. Release pressure from tank and disconnect power bleeder when done. I've not had to remove any excess fluid after releasing pressure. But she is full to top. I think a small amount of fluid gets pull back into bleeder when you remove pressure.
I would make sure I had plenty of fluid in tank to do all four before I started. Fluid is cheap
Last edited by Bloodzone; Feb 14, 2016 at 03:27 PM.
Clamp is the way to go. Small piece of wood on the bottom to protect the master cylinder and I use a piece 2x4 or angle iron across the top. It keeps the pressure back to front even.
I used 2 construction wood clamps instead of C clamps, but they worked great. I too don't put fluid in my can because my Vette uses DOT 5 and my others use DOT 3, and I don't want to have to clean it out completely every time. Great tool btw, and it gave me the best brakes my 79 has ever had.
Just so I'm clear: you don't have to put fluid directly into the tank itself? So it's just air pressure doing the job? If so, this would help in clean up and safety of the paint.
I have the professional Aamco Brake Bleeder.. (I actually have two of them) and a long long long time ago I made lower plates with bolts and wing nuts to attach it to the master cylinder... Why? Because no matter how tight we got the chains the darn things would leak.
I ditched the goofy chains for a better design and it never leaks now. I'm not familiar with how yours would bolt on.. But I will say that when you turn on the pressure if you hear any hissing at all you've got a leak.
Last edited by Willcox Corvette; Feb 14, 2016 at 09:08 PM.
If the tank when pressurized keeps the reservoir full did you have to suck some out when you were finished?
Im assuming this is the tricky part when you release the pressure? How did you do it? Can you just slowly unscrew the tank cap to let the pressure out? That would make sence to me.
It may leave the level slightly higher than you want. Stop and pick up a cheap turkey baster to remove any excess.
It may leave the level slightly higher than you want. Stop and pick up a cheap turkey baster to remove any excess.
Funny you say that....the wife just left for the store and I told her to get one....lol.
Im going to fill the tank seeing I replaced the entire rear end this winter. The calipers were off and drained so there not much fluid in them. I dot want to run the resivoir dry.
Funny you say that....the wife just left for the store and I told her to get one....lol.
Im going to fill the tank seeing I replaced the entire rear end this winter. The calipers were off and drained so there not much fluid in them. I dot want to run the resivoir dry.
I hope you didn't ask her to pick up c-clamps too.
Just so I'm clear: you don't have to put fluid directly into the tank itself? So it's just air pressure doing the job? If so, this would help in clean up and safety of the paint.
You got it. It is much less messy without filling the tank and the air pressure is all you need to do the job. I pressurize the tank at 15 psi and let it set for a couple of minutes to make sure I have a great seal with the c-clamp.
If you have a newer style motive I suggest using air line quick connects. I did that in mine so if I need to refill the master I can just quick disconnect the bleeder. This keeps the pressure in the tank so I don't have to pump it up as much.