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Use a C clamp with a small piece of 2x4 on each side when you jack up the spring into place. The C clamp will keep the jack from moving. Take a look at your bushings and replace if needed.
From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
Rear composite spring should be checked every so often for cracks. I had my last 2 springs crack and on my third now. They did not crack near the exhaust pipes.
One thing I know is air is a heat insulator. I used to run an aluminum plate under the diff but took it off after the failures were no where near the plate.
I installed a new exhaust with about 1 1/2 - 2 inches clearance of the spring. I put thick adhesive backed aluminum tape around the spring near the exhaust pipes. I then put electrical tape over the aluminum tape to hide the shiny aluminum tape and I figured if it got hot enough it would melt the electrical tape.
I then took it out for an hour in 90F heat and brought it back home and inspected the electrical tape and there was nothing that showed heat had affected it.
I ran my finger down the top of the spring and there was not noticeable difference in temperature from the portion that ran under the exhaust to the ends of the spring.
Next I took my IR heat gun and went down the spring on each side confirming the spring was actually about the same temperature everywhere I tested it.
So in my opinion if you have an adequate air barrier between the spring and exhaust you don't need to do anything else and the spring will survive it's MTBF rating. But always check the spring for spring for cracks even if only at oil change intervals
...apparently mine is the first that broke in the center.
I'm noticing that the block above the spring (between the spring and the center section) has 'walked' toward the passenger side of the car.
I wonder if this:
A) Contributed to the "sagging" you noticed before the spring broke.
B) Caused an immense amount of stress in the center of the spring, leading to its demise.
Makes me want to take a glance at my spring block to make sure it's staying centered...
From: Las Vegas - Just stop perpetuating myths please.
Originally Posted by AirBusPilot
The spring is on back order for 10 days. They want the broke spring back, apparently mine is the first that broke in the center.
ABP, Curious what the center of that spring looks like if u slice it open. Also curious why u didnt try VB this time?
Im guessing the exh pipes dont get to hot back near the rear spring. I wrapped mine like MotorHead did but used a whole tube of red RTV to glue it on because my exh pipes are terribly close there for some reason. Its a Corvette Central exh sys and i plan to take it to a exh shop to have it tweeked in that area for more air space.
I'm noticing that the block above the spring (between the spring and the center section) has 'walked' toward the passenger side of the car.
I wonder if this:
A) Contributed to the "sagging" you noticed before the spring broke.
B) Caused an immense amount of stress in the center of the spring, leading to its demise.
Makes me want to take a glance at my spring block to make sure it's staying centered...
I noticed that, too. Looks like it may have walked over and has been that way for awhile.
Last edited by AirBusPilot; Feb 15, 2016 at 03:58 PM.
ABP, Curious what the center of that spring looks like if u slice it open. Also curious why u didnt try VB this time?
Im guessing the exh pipes dont get to hot back near the rear spring. I wrapped mine like MotorHead did but used a whole tube of red RTV to glue it on because my exh pipes are terribly close there for some reason. Its a Corvette Central exh sys and i plan to take it to a exh shop to have it tweeked in that area for more air space.
It just looks like a white fiber like material.
VanSteel actually called VBP and asked if they had any, they were out too.
So many automotive parts come from CHINA and nobody tells you that, even if you ask they say I DON"T KNOW! You can't even go by the price anymore, the parts from china are getting pricey too.
Now my blood pressure is gone up, shoot
Last edited by colesweat; Feb 15, 2016 at 05:26 PM.
were are they getting them? Mexico? China? I've been getting junk from GM The last 5yrs or so. $700.00 for a GM Radiator made in Mexico that does not fit! Bolts from china, the list goes on. I purchased motor mounts for my BB69 from Ecklers, thinking these would be good parts (it's Ecklers the Corvette guys) but NO, Made in China. Could have got them at autozone cheeper.
Make sure you get the correct torque spec from Van Steel. VBP recommends a lower torque than is listed for the factory spring. I can't remember offhand but it's a good bit lower and you'll bend the new plate if you over torque the mounting bolts.
So many automotive parts come from CHINA and nobody tells you that, even if you ask they say I DON"T KNOW! You can't even go by the price anymore, the parts from china are getting pricey too.
Now my blood pressure is gone up, shoot
Makes me wonder how many parts in brand new cars are also made in China. The entire West could be headed for an era of unsafe, failure-prone vehicles.
were are they getting them? Mexico? China? I've been getting junk from GM The last 5yrs or so. $700.00 for a GM Radiator made in Mexico that does not fit! Bolts from china, the list goes on. I purchased motor mounts for my BB69 from Ecklers, thinking these would be good parts (it's Ecklers the Corvette guys) but NO, Made in China. Could have got them at autozone cheeper.
Make sure you get the correct torque spec from Van Steel. VBP recommends a lower torque than is listed for the factory spring. I can't remember offhand but it's a good bit lower and you'll bend the new plate if you over torque the mounting bolts.