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Exhaust manifold bolt

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Old Feb 16, 2016 | 04:58 PM
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Default Exhaust manifold bolt

I was cleaning the threads on the cylinder head to install exhaust manifold on the 79 L48 I am reviving. when I go to the #2 cylinder exhaust, the long bolt that holds the bracket for the AC compressor broke and part of the bolt still in the cylinder head.

I've heard other "gear heads" mentioned about taking a nut and welding the remaining part on the broken bolt by build a weld from the broken part to the nut. Has anyone done used such technique? Thank you.
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Old Feb 16, 2016 | 05:08 PM
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I've used that method several times on a number of items, as recently as last Saturday in fact. I've always used a MIG welder, although other setups should work equally well. Just try not to let that weld bleed over onto the block, as you don't want to weld it in place.
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Old Feb 16, 2016 | 06:09 PM
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Originally Posted by C3Bob76
I've used that method several times on a number of items, as recently as last Saturday in fact. I've always used a MIG welder, although other setups should work equally well. Just try not to let that weld bleed over onto the block, as you don't want to weld it in place.
The trick I use is to weld a thick flat washer to the broken bolt first, it's easier to get good penetration verses welding through a nut initially. Then after the flat washer is welded to the broken bolt, weld a nut to the flat washer, let it cool and gradually work the bolt loose and tight till it comes out. If it breaks off, keep trying till it works. The heat breaks the rust loose and the broken bolt shrinks slightly from being heated and cooled.
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Old Feb 18, 2016 | 09:01 AM
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Originally Posted by '75
The trick I use is to weld a thick flat washer to the broken bolt first, it's easier to get good penetration verses welding through a nut initially. Then after the flat washer is welded to the broken bolt, weld a nut to the flat washer, let it cool and gradually work the bolt loose and tight till it comes out. If it breaks off, keep trying till it works. The heat breaks the rust loose and the broken bolt shrinks slightly from being heated and cooled.
Thank you! Since the car is on "all fours" and away from my welder, I decided to remove the hear so I can work on it on a bence.
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Old Feb 18, 2016 | 11:39 AM
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Originally Posted by newbie2vette
Thank you! Since the car is on "all fours" and away from my welder, I decided to remove the hear so I can work on it on a bence.
I've done this several times without a nut or a washer. On bolts broken off below the head surface too. Just tack a bead on the broken bolt with your mig, and keep tacking till you build up enough weld to grab onto with a vice grips. The heat from welding will make the threads loose and it will turn right out.
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Old Feb 18, 2016 | 11:53 AM
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I have done it many times. it is my go to procedure for broken bolts when they are flush like that...the heat helps break the rust bond. other option is to put the manifold back on and use a bushing in the manifold hole to use as a guide to drill straight and centered on the broken bolt to use an extractor.
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Old Feb 18, 2016 | 12:57 PM
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Originally Posted by 75custom
I've done this several times without a nut or a washer. On bolts broken off below the head surface too. Just tack a bead on the broken bolt with your mig, and keep tacking till you build up enough weld to grab onto with a vice grips. The heat from welding will make the threads loose and it will turn right out.
It appears, that's the popular method. I am going to try this first, and will incorporate the washer and the nut if I mess it up.
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