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I have a 72 350 LT-1. Pretty much stock less smog, comp cam 12-701-3. The other day I had a mechanic adjust the timing to stop it from pinging at high RPM. After a few test drives he said it seemed to like 36 degrees total timing. When I got home I put my timing light on and read 36 degrees at 4 degrees after top dead center at about 2800 rpm. Is that right I thought it was read at 0 degrees. Bottom line is its not pinging anymore but would like to know where I read timing mark in crank mark.
I have a 72 350 LT-1. Pretty much stock less smog, comp cam 12-701-3. The other day I had a mechanic adjust the timing to stop it from pinging at high RPM. After a few test drives he said it seemed to like 36 degrees total timing. When I got home I put my timing light on and read 36 degrees at 4 degrees after top dead center at about 2800 rpm. Is that right I thought it was read at 0 degrees. Bottom line is its not pinging anymore but would like to know where I read timing mark in crank mark.
Your mechanic set it to 32 degrees which is a lot better than 36 degrees for a fairly stock engine. The 36 degrees is a valid number for high octane fuel but for 87 octane the 32 degrees is more forgiving and that's what I run in my beefed 454" engine.
I have a 72 350 LT-1. Pretty much stock less smog, comp cam 12-701-3. The other day I had a mechanic adjust the timing to stop it from pinging at high RPM. After a few test drives he said it seemed to like 36 degrees total timing. When I got home I put my timing light on and read 36 degrees at 4 degrees after top dead center at about 2800 rpm. Is that right I thought it was read at 0 degrees. Bottom line is its not pinging anymore but would like to know where I read timing mark in crank mark.
Does it read 32 degrees when the light is set for 0? If so, you might want to call your mechanic and ask him about it. Either he made a mistake, or something is changing.
Was this car pinging with 36 degrees total even on premium fuel? If so, it would be worth checking to be sure the index mark on the balancer really is TDC.
Does it read 32 degrees when the light is set for 0? If so, you might want to call your mechanic and ask him about it. Either he made a mistake, or something is changing.
Was this car pinging with 36 degrees total even on premium fuel? If so, it would be worth checking to be sure the index mark on the balancer really is TDC.
A 1972 LT-1 should run excellent all day long on 93 octane assuming the motor is fairly stock.
36 is a tried and true number as well.....what is the timing at idle?
In Ca. 91 octane is as good as it gets unless using "racing" fuel or an addditive. I'll have to check when I get home, I don't remember now but it seemed like it was real low, less than 4 degrees BTC. with vacuum advanced attached. It stumbled a bit on take off, richened it up seems to be better ( Holley 4150 780 CFM, factory correct carb)
In Ca. 91 octane is as good as it gets unless using "racing" fuel or an addditive. I'll have to check when I get home, I don't remember now but it seemed like it was real low, less than 4 degrees BTC. with vacuum advanced attached. It stumbled a bit on take off, richened it up seems to be better ( Holley 4150 780 CFM, factory correct carb)
As stated....check true 0 TDC with a piston stop. Set for 36 degrees.
I like to use the MSD timing tapes.....but barring that you will need a dial back timing light.
Also check for proper dwell first. This can alter timing. Set at 30 degrees.
Then dial in your 36. Wherever the initial falls is where it falls unless the distributor is curved with different or modified weights.
It should still run well at 91 octane as the 72' LT-1 was a 9:1 compression ratio engine.
You do realize you check total mechanical timing with the vacuum line disconnected? The 72 LT-1 had only a 9:1 compression so 36 total should work with 91 octane.
You do realize you check total mechanical timing with the vacuum line disconnected? The 72 LT-1 had only a 9:1 compression so 36 total should work with 91 octane.
Yes...I failed to mention that but I believe it does spell that out on the spec sticker under the hood.
Here is what the original sticker looks like for 72'.....I stuck one on mine...just FYI.
...it seemed like it was real low, less than 4 degrees BTC. with vacuum advanced attached.
No way. Unless you've got a high-overlap cam, vacuum advance is worth about 16 degrees at idle. You'd be set at 12 degrees after TDC. I'm not sure a motor will even run like that.
Like someone else said, the vacuum advance port on your carb/intake needs to be disconnected and plugged for these measurements.
No way. Unless you've got a high-overlap cam, vacuum advance is worth about 16 degrees at idle. You'd be set at 12 degrees after TDC. I'm not sure a motor will even run like that.
Like someone else said, the vacuum advance port on your carb/intake needs to be disconnected and plugged for these measurements.
I checked a couple of checks tonight before,I was interrupted.
Vacuum advanced disconnected & plugged.
Idle 900 rpm 8.2 degrees at 0 TDC
At 2400 rpm 25.6 degrees at 0 TDC
Much more advance and it wants to ping at higher rpm when getting on it.
By the way
Dwell is set at 29.8 at idle
Last edited by 1972LT1; Mar 9, 2016 at 12:32 AM.
Reason: oops I forget
I think whats confusing me is the way you're stating the advance. Timing is either BTDC or ATDC. So the way I'd state it is you simply have 8.2 degrees of initial spark advance at idle. That sounds completely normal. When you say you have 25.6 at 2400 RPM, has all the mechanical advance come in at that RPM? If it has you can use stronger springs in the mechanical advance to get it "all in" at a higher RPM, like 3600 RPM. That's about 17.5 degrees mechanical that you're seeing in your distributor, IDK if that's all there is available in there, but it seems a little low to me. IIRC it should be about 22 degrees.
Sorry to sound like a lecture, but IDK what your experience is with timing.
My HEI that came on my crate gives only 18 mech, (verified many times). Only thing I've changed in it are the springs. I've read you can expect around 20ish but could be as much as 25. Those are internet numbers so I don't know if they are accurate.
I checked a couple of checks tonight before,I was interrupted.
Vacuum advanced disconnected & plugged.
Idle 900 rpm 8.2 degrees at 0 TDC
At 2400 rpm 25.6 degrees at 0 TDC
Much more advance and it wants to ping at higher rpm when getting on it.
By the way
Dwell is set at 29.8 at idle
I believe you stated you have a stock distributor. If that is so you are 4 degrees beyond the stock setting when running 8.2 degrees at 900 RPM. Stock is 4 degress BTDC.
Unless you are willing to correctly modify the distributor, different springs, bronze stop bushing, vacuum advance limited, etc. just set your timing to stock and you will have no problems.
When you state in your post "0 TDC" I believe you are referring to setting the dial on your dial back timing light to zero degrees so the TDC is confusing.
At 2400 rpm 25.6 degrees at 0 TDC
Much more advance and it wants to ping at higher rpm when getting on it.
I think there are three possibilities here...
First, it's possible the balancer ring has slipped, and you have much more advance dialed in than you think. This is a common problem for this age of vehicle, and it needs to be checked before you do anything else. No other tuning work will be valid unless you can be absolutely certain that ignition timing is correct. Someone needs to verify that the TDC mark on the balancer really is TDC.
Second, if the timing is accurate, it shouldn't be pinging with 26 degrees total mechanical advance. Assuming 26 degrees really is the total amount, it's possible this is a fuel mixture issue, not timing.
Finally, if the motor has a lot of miles, carbon buildup in the heads can increase compression and reduce the quench area. The result is susceptibility to early detonation.
Good luck with this, it's probably a simple fix but you have some detective work to do.
I think whats confusing me is the way you're stating the advance. Timing is either BTDC or ATDC. So the way I'd state it is you simply have 8.2 degrees of initial spark advance at idle. That sounds completely normal. When you say you have 25.6 at 2400 RPM, has all the mechanical advance come in at that RPM? If it has you can use stronger springs in the mechanical advance to get it "all in" at a higher RPM, like 3600 RPM. That's about 17.5 degrees mechanical that you're seeing in your distributor, IDK if that's all there is available in there, but it seems a little low to me. IIRC it should be about 22 degrees.
Sorry to sound like a lecture, but IDK what your experience is with timing.
what mark should I be taking the reading once above idle for example 4 degrees ATDC?. And yes centrifugal advance is all in at 2400 rpm