More power steering hose qusetions
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
More power steering hose qusetions
I recently had the (less than 1000 miles ago) The power steering pump, All the hoses , the power steering cylinder (new not rebuilt) along with the power steering control valve (Also new not rebuilt).
everything was nice and dry until last week when I noticed oil on the garage floor (power steering fluid).
Put her up on ramps and saw both hoses that attach to the ps cylinder leaking and they are tight. Is there anything I can to to stop the leaks or do I need too once again replace the 2 hose going to the cylinder or try loosening them and re-tighten?
It's starting to really get on my nerves.
Thanks in advance
Oh yea it's a 71 w/4 speed and A/C
everything was nice and dry until last week when I noticed oil on the garage floor (power steering fluid).
Put her up on ramps and saw both hoses that attach to the ps cylinder leaking and they are tight. Is there anything I can to to stop the leaks or do I need too once again replace the 2 hose going to the cylinder or try loosening them and re-tighten?
It's starting to really get on my nerves.
Thanks in advance
Oh yea it's a 71 w/4 speed and A/C
Last edited by tmd442; 03-10-2016 at 10:16 AM. Reason: added year
#2
Burning Brakes
I would try re-loosening and tightening them first. someone may have over-tightened and split the flare though. if so, new hoses are in your future...
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tmd442 (03-10-2016)
#3
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Apr 2009
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The hoses may not be tight enough. I'd loosen them then re-tighten them. Remove all oil with a rag then make a hard right and left turn to pressurize the hoses and check for leaks again. It's possible only one is leaking and the wind is blowing the oil onto the other fitting.
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tmd442 (03-10-2016)
#4
Burning Brakes
The hoses may not be tight enough. I'd loosen them then re-tighten them. Remove all oil with a rag then make a hard right and left turn to pressurize the hoses and check for leaks again. It's possible only one is leaking and the wind is blowing the oil onto the other fitting.
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tmd442 (03-10-2016)
#5
Melting Slicks
#6
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45 degree flare fittings are notorious for leaks. Parts have to be machined and formed to precise tolerances to insure a good seal. I know that it is difficult to inspect but if you look into the control valve port(s) at the brass fitting. You should be able to see a uniform, 360 degree indentation where the flared tubing was pressed into the brass seat. That should indicate a good seal. If the indentation is interrupted, there is your leak path.
Sometimes just loosening the nut, fiddling with the tubing to centralize things and then retorquing the nut can result in a good seal.
It is also true that just tightening the nut to a higher torque level may also seal things up. CAUTION - You can also strip threads, break the cast ports, and cause non-repairable damage with too much torque.
Sometimes just loosening the nut, fiddling with the tubing to centralize things and then retorquing the nut can result in a good seal.
It is also true that just tightening the nut to a higher torque level may also seal things up. CAUTION - You can also strip threads, break the cast ports, and cause non-repairable damage with too much torque.
The following users liked this post:
tmd442 (03-11-2016)
#7
Safety Car
45 degree flare fittings are notorious for leaks. Parts have to be machined and formed to precise tolerances to insure a good seal. I know that it is difficult to inspect but if you look into the control valve port(s) at the brass fitting. You should be able to see a uniform, 360 degree indentation where the flared tubing was pressed into the brass seat. That should indicate a good seal. If the indentation is interrupted, there is your leak path.
Sometimes just loosening the nut, fiddling with the tubing to centralize things and then retorquing the nut can result in a good seal.
It is also true that just tightening the nut to a higher torque level may also seal things up. CAUTION - You can also strip threads, break the cast ports, and cause non-repairable damage with too much torque.
Sometimes just loosening the nut, fiddling with the tubing to centralize things and then retorquing the nut can result in a good seal.
It is also true that just tightening the nut to a higher torque level may also seal things up. CAUTION - You can also strip threads, break the cast ports, and cause non-repairable damage with too much torque.
The following users liked this post:
tmd442 (03-11-2016)
#9
Safety Car
I rebuilt my power steering control valve and replaced the hoses a few years ago. Getting the hoses to not leak was the most difficult task in the whole process. Glad to hear it's not just not me, but it does suck.