68 Will Not Start
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,164
Likes: 5
From: Middle Earth
68 Will Not Start
My 68 327 will not start. I have charged the battery and put it on a box and the engine slowly turns but will not start - eventually the battery or jumper box dies. I was told to check the ground. I checked the ground from the battery and it seems to be fine. Is there another ground I can check? Or, does this sound like something else?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 2,632
Likes: 112
From: Great Plains Iowa
The ground cable that REALLY needs replacing is the #2 aluminum ground cable that goes from the right side of the engine block to the underside of the frame right behind the coil spring. That aluminum cable MUST be replaced with an ordinary #4 copper cable with copper ends (they are shiny as they have a tin plating). The OEM aluminum cable will look good on the outside but inside the ends corrosion has built up and it won't carry nearly as much current as it did when new.
Crawl under the right side of your car and you'll see it where it attaches to the block right in front of the starter. The frame end uses a bolt and nut to secure it. When replacing that cable use sandpaper to shine the frame up, bolt the cable on, then coat the connection with a non-hardening gasket sealer to ward off moisture.
Crawl under the right side of your car and you'll see it where it attaches to the block right in front of the starter. The frame end uses a bolt and nut to secure it. When replacing that cable use sandpaper to shine the frame up, bolt the cable on, then coat the connection with a non-hardening gasket sealer to ward off moisture.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,164
Likes: 5
From: Middle Earth
The ground cable that REALLY needs replacing is the #2 aluminum ground cable that goes from the right side of the engine block to the underside of the frame right behind the coil spring. That aluminum cable MUST be replaced with an ordinary #4 copper cable with copper ends (they are shiny as they have a tin plating). The OEM aluminum cable will look good on the outside but inside the ends corrosion has built up and it won't carry nearly as much current as it did when new.
Crawl under the right side of your car and you'll see it where it attaches to the block right in front of the starter. The frame end uses a bolt and nut to secure it. When replacing that cable use sandpaper to shine the frame up, bolt the cable on, then coat the connection with a non-hardening gasket sealer to ward off moisture.
Crawl under the right side of your car and you'll see it where it attaches to the block right in front of the starter. The frame end uses a bolt and nut to secure it. When replacing that cable use sandpaper to shine the frame up, bolt the cable on, then coat the connection with a non-hardening gasket sealer to ward off moisture.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 2,478
Likes: 254
From: Downers Grove Illinois
So, I just need four feet of this http://www.lowes.com/pd_72610-295-20...uctId=50101584 and some copper ends? Man, that is much better than I expected!
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 2,632
Likes: 112
From: Great Plains Iowa
So, I just need four feet of this http://www.lowes.com/pd_72610-295-20...uctId=50101584 and some copper ends? Man, that is much better than I expected!
You misunderstood me. You need a 4 gauge copper ground cable that is about 18" long and it comes with the eye terminals already crimped on. Lumberyards even carry them for about $6.50 to $7.00.
The point is the OEM aluminum ground cable will work good for the first 20 years and then corrosion builds up inside; making the cable worthless. It's one of the few big mistakes G.M. made while trying to save a few cents.
Last edited by toobroketoretire; Mar 10, 2016 at 04:25 PM.
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Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,164
Likes: 5
From: Middle Earth
That was my fear. I am assembling parts for a 454 swap and do not want to buy a sb starter.
Do you have a link?
You misunderstood me. You need a 4 gauge copper ground cable that is about 18" long and it comes with the eye terminals already crimped on. Lumberyards even carry them for about $6.50 to $7.00.
The point is the OEM aluminum ground cable will work good for the first 20 years and then corrosion builds up inside; making the cable worthless. It's one of the few big mistakes G.M. made while trying to save a few cents.
The point is the OEM aluminum ground cable will work good for the first 20 years and then corrosion builds up inside; making the cable worthless. It's one of the few big mistakes G.M. made while trying to save a few cents.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 2,095
Likes: 298
From: Midlothian VA
Ya know, you could easily test all of the above theories prior to spending any money by simply connecting a jumper cable from pretty much anywhere on the block directly to the negative post on the battery. If the starter spins up fine, you have a grounding issue; if not, you need to look elsewhere.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,222
Likes: 93
From: shelbyville West Michigan
you could also just get a cheap DMM and check the voltage at the starter while cranking, and/or test the battery cables to actually determine the root cause. you could have bad connections at the battery, bad positive cable, bad ground cable(s), bad solenoid, bad starter, etc.
btw, the starter for a small block is the same as a big block, == if you do buy one, you can still use it.
btw, the starter for a small block is the same as a big block, == if you do buy one, you can still use it.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
HammerheadFred gave good advice, but only if you ground the cable to the engine block. If you connect it to the frame and your main grounding cable is bad/poor, you still won't start the car.
P.S. If you aren't even getting the starter solenoid to 'click' when you try starting the engine, either your starter solenoid is defective or the Neutral Start Switch is defective or out of adjustment.
P.S. If you aren't even getting the starter solenoid to 'click' when you try starting the engine, either your starter solenoid is defective or the Neutral Start Switch is defective or out of adjustment.
Last edited by 7T1vette; Mar 11, 2016 at 11:37 AM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 2,095
Likes: 298
From: Midlothian VA
HammerheadFred gave good advice, but only if you ground the cable to the engine block. If you connect it to the frame and your main grounding cable is bad/poor, you still won't start the car.
P.S. If you aren't even getting the starter solenoid to 'click' when you try starting the engine, either your starter solenoid is defective or the Neutral Start Switch is defective or out of adjustment.
P.S. If you aren't even getting the starter solenoid to 'click' when you try starting the engine, either your starter solenoid is defective or the Neutral Start Switch is defective or out of adjustment.
"...jumper cable from pretty much anywhere on the block"
Last edited by Hammerhead Fred; Mar 11, 2016 at 05:14 PM.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,164
Likes: 5
From: Middle Earth
Ok, I am heading over there in a bit. So, I need to run a jumper cable from the block to the negative side of the batter and see if it starts? If it does then I have bad ground from the block to the frame?
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
Either from the block to the frame (right side motor mount bolt to frame) or from the battery to the frame (main ground wire from battery...under battery box). Keep in mind that the wire can LOOK ok, but old copper wire can deteriorate near the ends...even inside the insulation. Years of air/heat/water can oxidize the copper and raise its resistance to where it won't pass adequate current. But, my 'guess' is that you are missing the frame-to-block wire.
That ground wire needs to be #2awg copper stranded wire. Welding cable would be best (more flexible with lots of smaller wire strands). If you do have a wire in that location, it could be a cheap aluminum replacement. That kind of wire is inadequate for the job.
That ground wire needs to be #2awg copper stranded wire. Welding cable would be best (more flexible with lots of smaller wire strands). If you do have a wire in that location, it could be a cheap aluminum replacement. That kind of wire is inadequate for the job.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,164
Likes: 5
From: Middle Earth
Either from the block to the frame (right side motor mount bolt to frame) or from the battery to the frame (main ground wire from battery...under battery box). Keep in mind that the wire can LOOK ok, but old copper wire can deteriorate near the ends...even inside the insulation. Years of air/heat/water can oxidize the copper and raise its resistance to where it won't pass adequate current. But, my 'guess' is that you are missing the frame-to-block wire.
That ground wire needs to be #2awg copper stranded wire. Welding cable would be best (more flexible with lots of smaller wire strands). If you do have a wire in that location, it could be a cheap aluminum replacement. That kind of wire is inadequate for the job.
That ground wire needs to be #2awg copper stranded wire. Welding cable would be best (more flexible with lots of smaller wire strands). If you do have a wire in that location, it could be a cheap aluminum replacement. That kind of wire is inadequate for the job.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 2,095
Likes: 298
From: Midlothian VA
Now time to rule out the starter.
You can, yank all the plugs and see if the motor spins up.
Without plugs the motor should spin very freely/fast.
If not: yank and bench test the starter.