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Are there any measurements or visual signs to know when the vibration damper is properly seated on the crank? I just remounted mine on my stock 71 SB using the crank bolt and a breaker bar. It slipped on the crank pretty easy, but how do I know when it is all the way on? I think it bottomed out but I was surprised to see that there is about 1" remaining on the inside of the balancer hub. Is there supposed to be that much remaining? I also noted the back of the hub is about 1/2 inch from the timing chain cover.
Re: Vibration Damper Install Help Needed (John's Shark)
The proper way to install a balancer is with a balancer installation tool. This tool screws into the front of the crank and has a fine pitch thread bolt that pushes the balancer on the crank. The back of the balancer should go through the seal in the cam cover. The balancer is on correctly when it won't go further on the crank and when the pulleys align correctly with the accessories. That's as much as I can help but I think using the crank bolt to install a new balancer is a bad idea and can screw up the threads in the crank. Maybe someone else can add more.
Re: Vibration Damper Install Help Needed (John's Shark)
The HB does have a little stop in it to indicate when you have
it pushed on to the proper depth on the crank (at least mine does). In the absence of that, I would push it on until your pulleys line up as the previous poster suggests.
Re: Vibration Damper Install Help Needed (rollavette71)
Agree with the pulley align check, but I was looking for an easier way. I hate to install the pulleys, water pump, a/c compressor, etc only to have to take it all back off if not correct. Thanks.
Re: Vibration Damper Install Help Needed (John's Shark)
There is a way...............remove the harmonic balancer, then measure the depth of the crankshaft hole in the balancer, then mark that same measurement/depth on your crankshaft with a majic marker. Make sure when you are done that the balancer covers or reaches the mark. Another way is to hold the end of the balancer (part that goes into the timing cover seal, against the the end of the crankshaft, and measure distance between the balancer cover and the timing cover, then subtract the depth measurement, and the remaining is the distance you should have between balancer and timing cover when installed.
Re: Vibration Damper Install Help Needed (vettfixr)
thats all good ideas....installing the balancer with the crank bolt should do the trick. I don't see ANY reason why it'd mess up the thread as those threads are used to PULL the balancer. :rolleyes: IMHO, a "special" tool to do that is one more useless tool.
Most parts stores like Pep Boys, ABC Auto, etc. have free tool loaner programs so you can get an installer and use it once for free. You don't have to buy it. The referenced post is on the money about using the correct installation tool (Tom454 knows his stuff). By trying to install the balancer with a bolt you are putting a tremendfous amount of strain on the first few threads of the crank hole. The installation tool threads all the way in to the crank and distributes the load across all the threads. The fine pitch of the remaining part of the tool allows more torque to be applied across a greater number of threads. The part that drives the balancer is also much larger and stronger than a washer. You can get lucky by beating a balancer on or by using a crank bolt but sooner or later it will catch up with you. Use the right tool for the right job and you won't be sorry. JMHO.
never use the balancer bolt to install a balancer on a cast crank as you can strip out the threads in the crank. i have fixed a few of these for other people. the forged crank will be OK but you are still playing with fire with a gas soaked rag in your pocket. best bet is a proper installer. :chevy
Re: Vibration Damper Install Help Needed (John's Shark)
I bought threaderd rod, three nuts (two double nutted at the end to keep the rod from trying to thread into the snout while turning the third nut to push the HB on) , a short piece of 2" black pipe and a 2" to 3/4" reducing coupling and made the tool. It worked fine and spent about $12 for everything. I also took measurements before removing the HB. Possibly you can find a car still together to take measurements or as others have said, check pulley alignment. Good luck.
Re: Vibration Damper Install Help Needed (Lee70454)
Thanks for all the tips. I thought about the tool but opted for the bolt route. I did purchase a new bolt made by ARP. It is about 1/2" longer than the one that was in the crank, so it should have enough "bite" on the threads. I will try to find a loner from a parts store to finish the job.