I removed my rocker panels and some of the screws broke off. How do i remove these?

 

Looks to me like you'll have to drill them. Maybe you can drill them part way and use a small EZ-out.

 

Good luck

 

Spray WD-40 onto the rear of the screws ahead of time then use some Vice Grips to inch them out toward the frame (there is about 3/4" of space between the panel and the frame to get the Vice Grips in to).

 

Sometimes you can get on them from the backside with a small vicegrip and work them loose. spray with PB blaster first. Good luck
Carl

 

I must have been typing the same time as 2broke..

 

Here's a solution.

http://www.zip-corvette.com/70-77-ro...epair-kit.html

 

30 bucks seems high but, if you try finding inserts like that you'll appreciate finding them in one place

 

Here's the fix for the rocker molding broken screw problem.

1) Drill any broken screws [and threaded inserts] completely through with a 1/4" drill. Use plenty of drill oil/lube to keep from overheating your drill...or it will quickly become 'toast'.

2) Go to your local hardware store and buy as many #10-24 Phillips raised-countersunk head screws as you need. Also purchase an equal number of #10-24 "T"-nuts for sheet metal (they don't have anti-rotation tangs on the flange).

3) Get some J.B.Weld 2-part epoxy or other good brand of epoxy.

4) Use wire brush or other means to clean off the backside of the plate where the T-nuts will be inserted. Then use a good volatile cleaner to degrease and prep for epoxy.

5) Mix enough epoxy for all the T-nuts you will be installing. Then put a dollop of mixed epoxy around each drilled hole on the backside of the rocker plate. Insert the T-nuts into each hole (flange on the backside) being careful NOT to get any epoxy into the threaded portion. If you feel the need, you can put a little wad of paper into the threaded holes to prevent epoxy getting in, OR you can put the epoxy on the inside of the T-nut flange, then insert the T-nut in the hole. Either method will work.

6) Let epoxy cure completely (usually needs 24 hours at room temps...maybe longer if in cool garage).

7) Install the rocker panel using the new screws. If the heads on the new screws are a bit larger than the originals, you can use a bench grinder to machine them down some before installation. Also, if you need to paint the heads, you can do so with a brush and some semi-flat or satin black paint AFTER installation.

Using this process will cost only a few dollars. If you want to, you can purchase stainless steel screws which have much less risk of long term corrosion. If you can also find S.S. T-nuts, all the better. To keep from having the new screws corrode in the T-nuts, dip the threads of the screws in Maalox or Milk of Magnesia before installation. After the threads dry out, it will leave a powder that will allow easy removal years later.

Lastly, this process is for the 'main' retaining screws on the rocker panels. The screws at the ends should be regular sheet metal screws and sheet metal nuts.

 

Yes but mine is a 69. That says it is for a 70-77. I don't know why it doesn't include a 69.

 

1968 rocker panels were multi-piece fiberglass and 'unique' (one year only). 1969 panels were one-piece fiberglass and 'unique'. 1970-77 panels were anodized aluminum and identical.

The method of retaining them was basically the same.

 

This fix was easy. The drill took care of the old studs like a hot knife in butter. I got some of those t-nuts and JB weld and replaced them. Thanks again 7t1Vette.

 

Working from that principal right now Carl.



Had THREE of them like this, all on the right side. On the left side, all screws came out easily.
Anyway, yesterday, 2 of the 3 came out by way of soaking with AeroKroil for a few days and using a baby Vicegrip. The 3rd however broke off flush with the "socket" it's screwed into. Looked up on the backside of it and there appears to be maybe an eighth of an inch of threads to grab onto. I'll try getting it out in a few days.

ZAKsPop, glad you got it solved!

Steve