When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
My 68 convert had 3/4 inch toe out on the rear, 1/2 inch contributed by the driver side. I finally decided to fix the alignment. Unfortunately, 50 year old original type shims made the job a real PIA. It took almost an hour to break the rusty bolt loose from its grip on the shims and trailing arm bushing so it could be driven out. The thinner shims were almost completely rusted away. Getting the new ss bolt back in required jockeying the hole on the trailing arm around so the bolt would go thru the outer frame hole. I think DUB will appreciate the custom tool used. After all of the work and ALL of the shims on the outer side, the driver side still has 1/4 in toe out. I can't see any obvious damage to the trailing arm, but it may be the PO hit a curb or bad pothole. Looks like another job to do. At least then I will have a nice shiny trailing arm.
Do a search on here,some buddy said that the shims go on the inside to align the car and the outside shims are the fillers for tightness.I just had mine aligned and that's how it was done.
Your picture appears to show no shims on the inside. I was wondering if that was so. I believe the trailing arm should have shims on both sides but I may be wrong. I also thought there was a long cotter pin to hold the bottom of the shims if they are the U shaped ones.
RVZIO
Normally there would be shims on both sides, but as indicated, something must be bent because all the inside shims are removed and he still has toe out.
Are you checking the toe with the rear tires on the floor and the suspension settled?
Your picture appears to show no shims on the inside. I was wondering if that was so. I believe the trailing arm should have shims on both sides but I may be wrong. I also thought there was a long cotter pin to hold the bottom of the shims if they are the U shaped ones.
RVZIO
I have not drilled the hole yet for the cotter pin. The starting point for alignment was toed out 1/2 inch on the driver side. Removing all shims on the inside corrected it to 1/4 inch toe out, but it is still not right.
"checking the toe with the rear tires on the floor and the suspension settled?" Yes. Rolled it back and forth several times, bumped the suspension up and down a couple times before taking a reading. I have a QuickTrick alignment tool. Works well. Did the front end a couple months ago with the QT tool and had it checked at a local shop. Did not have to change anything from my settings.
I have not drilled the hole yet for the cotter pin. The starting point for alignment was toed out 1/2 inch on the driver side. Removing all shims on the inside corrected it to 1/4 inch toe out, but it is still not right.
It may be a little challenging to drill the holes. You might need a long bit that you can bend as you try to drill the inside one. Ask me how I know. FUN FUN!
RVZIO
"checking the toe with the rear tires on the floor and the suspension settled?" Yes. Rolled it back and forth several times, bumped the suspension up and down a couple times before taking a reading. I have a QuickTrick alignment tool. Works well. Did the front end a couple months ago with the QT tool and had it checked at a local shop. Did not have to change anything from my settings.
I could never get any of my vettes to sit right without actually driving it around the block. The bouncing routine never worked for me.
It may be a little challenging to drill the holes. You might need a long bit that you can bend as you try to drill the inside one. Ask me how I know. FUN FUN!
RVZIO
Yeah- I remarked to DUB about a week ago, when I knew I was going to do this, that I already had an 18 inch long bit set and could not remember why I bought it years ago- long before I had a Corvette that would require specialized surgery.
Yeah- I remarked to DUB about a week ago, when I knew I was going to do this, that I already had an 18 inch long bit set and could not remember why I bought it years ago- long before I had a Corvette that would require specialized surgery.
Yea I still need to get my bit. I did it once to this frame but the when I removed the body I had to weld reinforcement brackets and then forgot the holes. OH well live and learn.
You haven't said a word about your bearings.....seeing how rusty yer shims are, [and I KNOW about RUSTY shims!!!!] I'm sure your 1/4" play is due to BAD bearings!!
My shims were so rusty I had to use a sawzall w/ long fine tooth blades to cut thru the bolt in order to even think about getting the damn shims out......I sent my T.A.'s to VTech (Gary) to have him PROPERLY rework my T.A.'s, and they had to replace the right side bearing flange cuz the bearing inner race would literally just drop in, when they're spozed to be a press fit! What I'm really saying is: Don't think you can get by WITHOUT checking the bearings/spacers in your T.A.'s...it's THE time to do it RIGHT!!
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
Have you aligned the track to the front wheels yet. When I did my 68 I was able to get close but my tracking kept changing as I worked my shims. Once I got it close I was able to shim both sides to get the tracking straight. What I'm trying to say is you may not be toed out if the wheels arent pointing to the same equidistant point in the front.
Just saying so you dont go changing anything before you know its a bigger problem.
I'm also guessing the bolt is new and may not be the same lenght as the original 68 bolt. If I remember mine had some sort of external washer/shim on it. 68's are wonderful creatures
Last edited by Rescue Rogers; Mar 14, 2016 at 10:01 PM.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
Heres a pic of the external spacer
Could be a Bubba thing. Not sure but its there on both sides
Heres a diagram that I used to keep track of measurements and you can see the distance from the frame in the front has to be equal on both sides to be sure you are actually toed out on one side only
I wrote down on my final sheet exactly what side of the tape I was reading on and where it was taken from. When I get tired I make really easy mistakes. On my frame theres a rivet on the passenger side frame that you cant see without a light in the wheel well and it threw my tracking readings around before I spotted it.
Just trying to give you some insight and problems I had.
Finally finished the passenger side today. Starting point there was 1/4 in toed out. Removed the only shim on the inboard side (1/8 in) and shimmed out on the outboard side. Not toed in, but if I look cross-eyed at the tape I can claim it is zero. Total combined L + R is 1/4 inch TO, now all on the driver side. Main thing is a test drive now has the car less twitchy than before, so I will put up with it for now. I suspect the driver side has the mounting flange on the TA for the hub bent from striking a pothole. When I feel like another PIA job, I will replace the trailing arm on that side. For other comments- the PO did a bearing replacement on both sides. That SS bolt came with the shims and is longer than the old one taken off. Not worried about it, since the interference fit fine thread nut will never back off, plus the cotter pin is there if it tries. It's now nice to have a car that does not get squirrelly when driven over 50 mph. I got to try out the recent tune up I did, including fixing the back-assward fuel filter bubba had installed. Full throttle in 2nd gear with the top down literally blew my hat off. The car behind me ran over it, so I left it where it landed.
Last edited by ronarndt; Mar 15, 2016 at 07:03 PM.
Its nice when you can fix what Bubba has screwed up. Good job on getting it drivable.
RR- Yeah, I have been so busy fixing bubba stuff that I never had time to get the engine running well. I finally did a tune up and found there was hardly any point gap (surprised it even ran) and timing was 4 degrees AFTER TDC. The fuel filter was installed backwards so the vapor return line was interfering with proper fuel flow. Now, with everything set to proper specs the car runs like it should. I can understand how some folks on this forum who have invested years in their cars finally get that sense of satisfaction when they press down with their right foot. RA
rear suspension shims replacement not fun
RA