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Old Mar 16, 2016 | 03:45 PM
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Default Full Brake System Replacement

I know there are multiple threads about C3 brakes, but I am looking for some guidance in selecting what's best for my application. My car sees very little use, sits in the garage most of the time. I do take it out for some spirited driving, but I am not racing it. Maybe someday I will do some autocross, but that will be the extent of track time it will see. The suspension and steering has all been upgraded with VB&P items. The motor is pushing about 350HP with a recent rebuild, so it's not really a performance car. I want to keep the parts around 1K including rotors and lines.

My options:
-VB&P kit SS with o-rings
-Vansteel kit SS with o-rings (comparable cost to VB&P)
-Ecklers kit SS with lip seal (about $100 less than the others)
-Cheap route Autozone etc...

All have a core charge, will any of them make good and give me the refund?

Any suggestions what might work best for me?
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Old Mar 16, 2016 | 04:11 PM
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Have you miked your existing rotors? If they are still in spec, there is no need to replace them.

Have you contacted Willcox to see what type of brake package they offer?

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Old Mar 16, 2016 | 04:20 PM
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The rotors are in rough shape, I can see grooves that have been worn into them. That, and I want to complete the performance wheel look with drilled/slotted rotors.

To further my confusion I looked on Summit, they have kits by SSBC that are comparable to what I would be paying with the core deposits. Has anyone used these?
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Old Mar 16, 2016 | 09:39 PM
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Originally Posted by rjken1969
I know there are multiple threads about C3 brakes, but I am looking for some guidance in selecting what's best for my application. My car sees very little use, sits in the garage most of the time. I do take it out for some spirited driving, but I am not racing it. Maybe someday I will do some autocross, but that will be the extent of track time it will see. The suspension and steering has all been upgraded with VB&P items. The motor is pushing about 350HP with a recent rebuild, so it's not really a performance car. I want to keep the parts around 1K including rotors and lines.

My options:
-VB&P kit SS with o-rings
-Vansteel kit SS with o-rings (comparable cost to VB&P)
-Ecklers kit SS with lip seal (about $100 less than the others)
-Cheap route Autozone etc...

All have a core charge, will any of them make good and give me the refund?

Any suggestions what might work best for me?
For a car that will not be driven the biggest problem you will face is leaking calipers. This is were "Autozone" may have the best replacement warranty. "they had lifetime at one point", All the brake kits will give you the same stopping power. The only reason to buy slotted / cross drilled rotors is for the looks. If you are looking for race type applications then stay away from cross drilled. ( they usually crack easier) slotted would be my first choice (stop tech brand is an option).

For calipers that don't leak, it doesn't matter the current stock of rebuilt / new units all have higher failure rates than those built before 2000's. Your original stock calipers will be the longest lasting units. Any replacement units you buy now, you would be lucky to get 5-7 years before they leak again.

There are a lot with the 2-3 years and no problems but that doesn't help a car that sits most of the time.

If you want "bling" you can look at wilwood kits (expect to pay for this) I dont know if there calipers are any better for leaking problems but I gave up on the corvette suppliers and I am on year 1 for wilwoods.
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Old Mar 17, 2016 | 11:14 AM
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Of the companies you mentioned, there are only two that have continued to engage in R&D for the C2 and C3 Corvettes. In my view this is important, not just for the products they sell, but the work necessary to see what works together and what is best for our cars. The other two sell products (and kits) that have been proven to work, by those that did the R&D.

Of the two that sell products that they have done R&D with, both have had excellent customer service in the past and offered excellent tech service when you call them on the phone and are looking for advice on what works and what doesn't. Unfortunately one of them has recently received mention here on the Forum for having difficulty with their previously stellar customer service. I wish it weren't so, but I've watched this progress over the past few years and hope they can correct the problem.

I personally have purchased from all of them, and probably will continue to in the future when necessary. But one of them will always be my first choice.

If you have any questions, just PM me.

Good luck... GUSTO
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Old Mar 17, 2016 | 01:35 PM
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Default SS Brakes

Have your calipers ever been sleeved in stainless steel? If so, buy a O-ring kit from Vette Brakes and Products for about $150 and rebuild them yourself. If the calipers are original and not been sleeved, trade them in for a fresh set of sleeved calipers with O-rings. I have done about six cars and all are working well. Jerry
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Old Mar 17, 2016 | 08:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Tampa Jerry
Have your calipers ever been sleeved in stainless steel? If so, buy a O-ring kit from Vette Brakes and Products for about $150 and rebuild them yourself. If the calipers are original and not been sleeved, trade them in for a fresh set of sleeved calipers with O-rings. I have done about six cars and all are working well. Jerry
How many of these cars are past 5 years of service ?

What kind of warranty do they have for leak free ?
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Old Mar 18, 2016 | 10:25 AM
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is 1000 your hard cap?
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Old Mar 18, 2016 | 10:36 AM
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I wished I had bought a kit, ended up I spent as much or more than a kit. If I could have afforded Wildwood that's what I would have done. Just remember the rotors are riveted on the hubs, that was my rookie mistake.
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Old Mar 18, 2016 | 11:02 AM
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Default Brakes

I have about 10 years of service on my 68 and over 6 years of service on my 66. The other four cars I worked on are still going strong after years of service. I don't know about a warranty as I have not had a failure. The key to getting a long lasting leak free caliper is prep. I thoroughly clean the calipers with soap and water. I use compressed air for drying. I clean all passages with pipe cleaners with denatured alcohol. I dry again with compressed air. I fill the system with new Dot 3 or 4 brake fluid. Before I mount the calipers, I use a dial indicator to measure rotor run out. I shoot for under .004. Shim if necessary.I also use speed bleeders to bleed the system. If you do this, you will have a happy and safe brake system. Good luck. Jerry
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Old Mar 18, 2016 | 11:14 AM
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looks like this might be your best option... they say lifetime guaranteed delco calipers. Scroll down to the second kit.

http://www.duntovmotors.com/brakes.php
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Old Mar 18, 2016 | 12:22 PM
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Originally Posted by hotrodnick
I wished I had bought a kit, ended up I spent as much or more than a kit. If I could have afforded Wildwood that's what I would have done. Just remember the rotors are riveted on the hubs, that was my rookie mistake.

I'm also a rookie with this type of system, I didn't think about this. How did you deal with it, machine shop?
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Old Mar 18, 2016 | 02:14 PM
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If I have any problem with the front brakes on my car I may got to these
http://www.kore3.com/proddetail.php?prod=10029-02

with their brackets 10637-01, for anyone trying to find these brackets you have to call or email them to order as they are not on their website.
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Old Mar 18, 2016 | 06:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Tampa Jerry
I have about 10 years of service on my 68 and over 6 years of service on my 66. The other four cars I worked on are still going strong after years of service. I don't know about a warranty as I have not had a failure. The key to getting a long lasting leak free caliper is prep. I thoroughly clean the calipers with soap and water. I use compressed air for drying. I clean all passages with pipe cleaners with denatured alcohol. I dry again with compressed air. I fill the system with new Dot 3 or 4 brake fluid. Before I mount the calipers, I use a dial indicator to measure rotor run out. I shoot for under .004. Shim if necessary.I also use speed bleeders to bleed the system. If you do this, you will have a happy and safe brake system. Good luck. Jerry
Sounds like you rebuilt yours vs buying from a vendor. The vendor supplied calipers seem to be sub par. Glad its worked for you but would your trade yours for the ones supplied today from the vendors. ( I wouldn't ) also how many months do your cars sit in storage ? I would guess you can drive your car year round which is also a big help to this problem.

Last edited by cagotzmann; Mar 18, 2016 at 06:59 PM.
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Old Mar 18, 2016 | 07:03 PM
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Originally Posted by rjken1969
I'm also a rookie with this type of system, I didn't think about this. How did you deal with it, machine shop?
You can drill them out yourself while they are on the car. Drill enough to remove the rivit heads. You might still need to use force to remove them. Also on the rear you will need to adjust the e-brakes (shoes) so the rear rotors can be removed. Seems difficult at first but there are enough people on this forum that will guide you each step. It is worth the experience to do this yourself.

Last edited by cagotzmann; Mar 18, 2016 at 07:04 PM.
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Old Mar 21, 2016 | 02:47 PM
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I think I arrived at my solution. I am looking at the Wilwood D8-4s with new pads and SS lines. I will keep the stock calipers. A little over my budget but I think it will give me the results I am after. The car sits a lot. The Wilwood parts seem to be the best solution for this.
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Old Mar 21, 2016 | 06:53 PM
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Originally Posted by rjken1969
I'm also a rookie with this type of system, I didn't think about this. How did you deal with it, machine shop?
Use new titanium drill bits, center punch the center of the rivets and have at it. Get a heavy punch and punch the rivets through the back.
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Old Mar 21, 2016 | 08:36 PM
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Originally Posted by rjken1969
I think I arrived at my solution. I am looking at the Wilwood D8-4s with new pads and SS lines. I will keep the stock calipers. A little over my budget but I think it will give me the results I am after. The car sits a lot. The Wilwood parts seem to be the best solution for this.
That is what I have now. installed in Sept 2015. My car sits for 7 months over the winter. Lets see how they do.

You may run into 1 problem with the wilwoods in the rear when it comes to bleeding the brakes. Because the rear calipers are almost horizontol you may need to remove the caliper and place them upright to bleed properly. The bleeding screw position leave a air gap in the rear.
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Old Mar 22, 2016 | 10:13 AM
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I used Aerospace Street/strip nickle plated brakes . Car never stopped so good. With a master cylinder and all rotors , hats , brackets , calipers , pads , bearings ect it was about 1500.00

Saved 88 pounds , and she stops like a super car
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Old Mar 22, 2016 | 01:16 PM
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"O" ring calipers and SS inserts last for years, especially on cars that sit, as does my 72. I got mine from Rock auto. They were GM redone.
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