What tools are needed for Suspension
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 155
Likes: 6
What tools are needed for Suspension
I'm getting ready to do a full front end rebuild and put in a VBP street and Slalom package from VBP. This is gonna be my first real go at working on suspension. I know having the right tools makes a huge difference, but I'm not sure what the tools I'm going to need are and would rather not find out along the way. Can you guys recommend which tools are gonna be needed to complete a job like this? I know a lot of you have already done suspension projects and I'm guessing you've learned all the tools that make the job a little easier haha. Thanks guys!
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 829
Likes: 131
From: Spartanburg SC
These guys have mentioned the four most important tools.
1) spring compressor. I highly recommend the 5/8 threaded rod system. Get plans off Wilcox site. Awsome design, works perfectly.
2) torque wrench
3) air hammer and pickle fork
4) three or four lb hammer.
I'll add one, penetrating lubricant.
Thought of another. Anti seize.
1) spring compressor. I highly recommend the 5/8 threaded rod system. Get plans off Wilcox site. Awsome design, works perfectly.
2) torque wrench
3) air hammer and pickle fork
4) three or four lb hammer.
I'll add one, penetrating lubricant.
Thought of another. Anti seize.
Last edited by mortgageguy; Mar 23, 2016 at 05:04 PM.
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 1,765
Likes: 254
From: Catlett VA
tools
Are you going to do the A arm bushings? If so, invest in the tool to press out and press in the bushings. Otherwise you will be drilling or burning out the old bushings and risking bending the A arm pressing in the new ones. The advice to use the "pickle fork" is OK, but the better method uses specialty tools with fine threaded bolts to apply power carefully to remove the ball joints, pitman arm, tie rods ends so you do not bugger up the part you need to keep by beating on the fork with a BFH. The tool kits range from about $70 to $150, depending on the brand. You may also check if your auto parts store rents the tools. I have done suspensions using both methods. My rebuild on my 68 convert used the "non-beating" method and went without any problems.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 155
Likes: 6
Are you going to do the A arm bushings? If so, invest in the tool to press out and press in the bushings. Otherwise you will be drilling or burning out the old bushings and risking bending the A arm pressing in the new ones. The advice to use the "pickle fork" is OK, but the better method uses specialty tools with fine threaded bolts to apply power carefully to remove the ball joints, pitman arm, tie rods ends so you do not bugger up the part you need to keep by beating on the fork with a BFH. The tool kits range from about $70 to $150, depending on the brand. You may also check if your auto parts store rents the tools. I have done suspensions using both methods. My rebuild on my 68 convert used the "non-beating" method and went without any problems.
Oh, and when you say A-arms you're talking about the control arms correct? In that case, yes, I am replacing those with Poly bushings as well.
Last edited by Mcjoshin; Mar 23, 2016 at 05:47 PM.
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Drifting
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 1,765
Likes: 254
From: Catlett VA
Thanks Ron, that's exactly what I'm trying to figure out is how to do it the right way. As I said, this is my first time working on suspension, but I know how much easier a job is when you use the right tools. Do you have any idea what the tool you're referencing is called? My local autoparts store definitely rents out the tools, I just need to know exactly what I should be looking for. Thanks again for the help!
Oh, and when you say A-arms you're talking about the control arms correct? In that case, yes, I am replacing those with Poly bushings as well.
Oh, and when you say A-arms you're talking about the control arms correct? In that case, yes, I am replacing those with Poly bushings as well.
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 1,939
Likes: 477
From: NSW, Australia
C3 of Year Finalist (track prepared) 2019
I used regular spanners/sockets, my small hydraulic press, an air hammer to get out the old bush shells (after pressing out the innards), a cut off wheel in the angle grinder and the air hammer again to remove the balljoints (only necessary if you still have the factory riveted in joints as I did). I used a 3 jaw puller (with some help from a propane torch for a couple of tight joints) to break all the tapered connections, but that would be much more easily done with specific tie rod and pitman arm pullers, which I will purchase next time.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 829
Likes: 131
From: Spartanburg SC
The easiest way I found to get the old bushings out, was to cut the excess rubber that is the ends and drill holes in the rubber. It just fell out after that. Then I used the balljoint press that Ron showed to press out the shell. It's an effective system.