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Broken Sud Removal

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Old Mar 23, 2016 | 03:10 PM
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Default Broken Stud Removal

I'm sure this has had to have happened to some of you folks here:



That's the Rocker Panel screws that had rusted in place over the years, and I elected to drill the heads off (just 3, all on the right side) to at least remove the aluminum panel. And at least, I do have something to grab onto in removing them.

I can't use heat, as they are surrounded in plastic. I take it that the round "anchors" that the screws screw into are attached to the non-metal body. Is this correct, or are they welded to the frame?

So I'm just wondering what's the best way to remove these little guys.

TIA.
Steve

Last edited by Cavu2u; Mar 24, 2016 at 06:56 AM.
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Old Mar 23, 2016 | 04:57 PM
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can you get a vice grip on them?
or you will have to try an easy out, or just drill them
out.
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Old Mar 23, 2016 | 05:38 PM
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Soak them down overnight or several days. Use a special tool that bites on them when you turn counter clockwise. Take your time. PB Blaster or WD-40 will loosen up the rust if you take your time.
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Old Mar 23, 2016 | 06:31 PM
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You can also grind slot in the middle of the stud and then you can apply a flat blade screw driver to the slot and screw then out.
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Old Mar 23, 2016 | 06:36 PM
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If you can weld a nut onto it you can then use a wrench or socket to remove it.
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Old Mar 23, 2016 | 07:05 PM
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The threaded insert is part of the rocker channel which is steel but surrounded by fiberglass.
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Old Mar 23, 2016 | 08:31 PM
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Didn't you just have a thread on the same subject in the last week or two? If so, you have all the info you need. If that wasn't you, do a SEARCH on "rocker panel" and check-out the info within that thread.
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Old Mar 23, 2016 | 08:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Cool95vette
If you can weld a nut onto it you can then use a wrench or socket to remove it.


This.. for me is the most common way we remove broken or striped bolts.

We place a nut over top the stud and weld it.

The heat from the welding will usually penetrate any rust causing resistance and the new nut allows you to remove it with ease.

In the case where this fails.. we'll your no worse off than when you started and so when this happens I will drill out the old bolt, chase the threads and move forward.

IMHO,

Willcox
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Old Mar 23, 2016 | 10:08 PM
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50/50 acetone and ATF is an excellent penetrant. Also, if you resort to drilling, left-handed drill bits are your friend. McMaster-Carr (www.mcmaster.com) is an excellent source for this sort of thing.
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Old Mar 24, 2016 | 07:18 AM
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Default Thanks!

Much appreciative to all the feedback. Especially to '75 on construction.
Plenty of stud to grip onto here, and I was concerned with the stud's size AFA welding a nut on goes.

For a penetrant, I've got a lot of faith in these products:

http://www.kanolabs.com/penLub.html

The home-brew penetrant I would like to try though.

Steve
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Old Mar 24, 2016 | 09:32 AM
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I've tried the 'home brew'. The components don't really mix well and will separate quickly. I tested some rusted bolts....didn't really see any benefit from the ATF/acetone brew over things that I know will work (PBBlaster, Liquid Wrench). But, that's just ONE person's experience.
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Old Mar 24, 2016 | 09:50 AM
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Kroil is good stuff, no doubt. I used it on very rusted steam fittings with success. The ATF/acetone mix was reported in a test done by a machinist group, I'll try to find it. Based on their reports, and my minimal usage, I can say it works.

Here, more than you ever wanted to know, LOL: https://www.google.com/search?source....0.cGA_6CaAagg

Last edited by Dirty Dalton; Mar 24, 2016 at 09:52 AM.
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Old Mar 24, 2016 | 04:01 PM
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+1 on kroil.
I had 8 exhaust manifold bolts to remove.
Almost a guarantee your going to get at least one broken off.
I soaked them with Kroil each night when I came home from work for a week.
I then went at them easy left and right motion till all 8 came out
I was shocked
They were extra nasty looking too.
That stuff in the orange can works.
Marshal





Originally Posted by Ed Harrow
Kroil is good stuff, no doubt. I used it on very rusted steam fittings with success. The ATF/acetone mix was reported in a test done by a machinist group, I'll try to find it. Based on their reports, and my minimal usage, I can say it works.

Here, more than you ever wanted to know, LOL: https://www.google.com/search?source....0.cGA_6CaAagg
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