Door Sill Refurbishment
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 2,569
Likes: 126
From: San Diego California
Door Sill Refurbishment
Did a Search with no luck on this subject.
Through the years, we all may end up with this if an uncaring owner is involved. Seatbelt scratches mostly.
Sure I could buy new, but I want to keep this car as original as possible, and I like the idea of renewing, not scraping.
Can these sills be milled down to a clean smooth surface?
TIA.
Steve
Through the years, we all may end up with this if an uncaring owner is involved. Seatbelt scratches mostly.
Sure I could buy new, but I want to keep this car as original as possible, and I like the idea of renewing, not scraping.
Can these sills be milled down to a clean smooth surface?
TIA.
Steve
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,200
Likes: 4,287
From: Westminster Maryland
Hi C2,
From your pictures it appears the sills have already had the black paint redone at some point.
Since the sill plates are anodized extruded aluminum restoring them requires removing the anodizing, resurfacing them to remove the scratches, and then protecting the new surface in some way.
The process would probably be similar to the one some people use to restore the rocker trim panels.
Regards,
Alan
From your pictures it appears the sills have already had the black paint redone at some point.
Since the sill plates are anodized extruded aluminum restoring them requires removing the anodizing, resurfacing them to remove the scratches, and then protecting the new surface in some way.
The process would probably be similar to the one some people use to restore the rocker trim panels.
Regards,
Alan
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 2,569
Likes: 126
From: San Diego California
Hi C2,
From your pictures it appears the sills have already had the black paint redone at some point.
Since the sill plates are anodized extruded aluminum restoring them requires removing the anodizing, resurfacing them to remove the scratches, and then protecting the new surface in some way.
The process would probably be similar to the one some people use to restore the rocker trim panels.
Regards,
Alan
From your pictures it appears the sills have already had the black paint redone at some point.
Since the sill plates are anodized extruded aluminum restoring them requires removing the anodizing, resurfacing them to remove the scratches, and then protecting the new surface in some way.
The process would probably be similar to the one some people use to restore the rocker trim panels.
Regards,
Alan
Yes indeed, I painted the black for just a temporary fix, but of course the scratches remained. I wonder how people resurface. Sanding perhaps?
Much appreciated sir.
Steve
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 11,183
Likes: 3,334
From: North of Toronto - Ontario
I touched mine up a few years back. Alan is correct (big surprise there) they are extruded, chemically brightened (not polished) and clear anodized.
You can't polish the stuff without removing the anodizing. Either chemically (my preferred method) or mechanically (sanding, harder that you would think especially with all the corners and crevices) and if you sand you need to do the entire strip since it will be noticeably different than the original finish
If you strip them, you can file/sand out a lot of the marks but of course some are pretty deep and you'll end up with a wavy mess if you try to smooth out all of them.
Then go to a steel wool/kerosene sanding to even out the finish and get it brighter without making them actually polished
Clean really well and apply a couple of coats of a good clear or semi-gloss clear. This will get it close to the original finish
This might be an area where you put your originals away for someday and pop on a set of repo's.
You can't polish the stuff without removing the anodizing. Either chemically (my preferred method) or mechanically (sanding, harder that you would think especially with all the corners and crevices) and if you sand you need to do the entire strip since it will be noticeably different than the original finish
If you strip them, you can file/sand out a lot of the marks but of course some are pretty deep and you'll end up with a wavy mess if you try to smooth out all of them.
Then go to a steel wool/kerosene sanding to even out the finish and get it brighter without making them actually polished
Clean really well and apply a couple of coats of a good clear or semi-gloss clear. This will get it close to the original finish
This might be an area where you put your originals away for someday and pop on a set of repo's.
Last edited by Mooser; Mar 26, 2016 at 08:58 AM.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 2,569
Likes: 126
From: San Diego California
Thanks Mooser,
I've done that, the part about buying a repro and storing the original. The problem is, I'm storing parts that are taking up space, and the car's lost some originality. Sills aren't too pricy, so that's not a problem. I've still got time, so I'll do what you suggested and strip, sand, and finish as described.
Much appreciated.
Steve
I've done that, the part about buying a repro and storing the original. The problem is, I'm storing parts that are taking up space, and the car's lost some originality. Sills aren't too pricy, so that's not a problem. I've still got time, so I'll do what you suggested and strip, sand, and finish as described.
Much appreciated.
Steve
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,200
Likes: 4,287
From: Westminster Maryland
Hi Steve,
The problem M describes…. getting the deepest marks/gouges out of the surface with out the part ending up wavy/lumpy looking... is the same problem that people run into when restoring the rocker trim to the original appearance.
Fortunately the rocker trim is mounted even lower and turned at a slight angle so the lumpiness isn't as obvious as it is on the sill plates.
The original sill plate appearance was very nice but turned out to be very impractical when the car was driven.
Regards,
Alan
The problem M describes…. getting the deepest marks/gouges out of the surface with out the part ending up wavy/lumpy looking... is the same problem that people run into when restoring the rocker trim to the original appearance.
Fortunately the rocker trim is mounted even lower and turned at a slight angle so the lumpiness isn't as obvious as it is on the sill plates.
The original sill plate appearance was very nice but turned out to be very impractical when the car was driven.
Regards,
Alan
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 11,183
Likes: 3,334
From: North of Toronto - Ontario
I've got half my crawl space full of original or proper parts JIC someday someone else ever wanted to attempt to put this back to original. Can't believe anyone would even try but hey, added parts never hurt a sale.
For stripping anodize, I find the easiest is crystal draino....outdoors.
Make a little 2x4 wooden frame big enough for your parts to lay in, pace a heavy plastic (heavy duty garbage bag works) over so you have a "pool"
Warm/hot water and a bunch of draino (crystal not the liquid stuff)
move the parts /water around a bit so fresh solution is on the parts
Use an electrical meter and just rest the leads on the part (don't press in with the sharp points as they will go through the coating) check for continuity at different points on the parts to see when the anodize is gone.
Anodize is not conductive so when it's gone the meter will show.
Once it's gone the aluminum is much easier to sand/polish. The anodize is very thin but surprisingly hard
M
For stripping anodize, I find the easiest is crystal draino....outdoors.
Make a little 2x4 wooden frame big enough for your parts to lay in, pace a heavy plastic (heavy duty garbage bag works) over so you have a "pool"
Warm/hot water and a bunch of draino (crystal not the liquid stuff)
move the parts /water around a bit so fresh solution is on the parts
Use an electrical meter and just rest the leads on the part (don't press in with the sharp points as they will go through the coating) check for continuity at different points on the parts to see when the anodize is gone.
Anodize is not conductive so when it's gone the meter will show.
Once it's gone the aluminum is much easier to sand/polish. The anodize is very thin but surprisingly hard
M
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 11,183
Likes: 3,334
From: North of Toronto - Ontario
Hi Steve,
The problem M describes…. getting the deepest marks/gouges out of the surface with out the part ending up wavy/lumpy looking... is the same problem that people run into when restoring the rocker trim to the original appearance.
Fortunately the rocker trim is mounted even lower and turned at a slight angle so the lumpiness isn't as obvious as it is on the sill plates.
The original sill plate appearance was very nice but turned out to be very impractical when the car was driven.
Regards,
Alan
The problem M describes…. getting the deepest marks/gouges out of the surface with out the part ending up wavy/lumpy looking... is the same problem that people run into when restoring the rocker trim to the original appearance.
Fortunately the rocker trim is mounted even lower and turned at a slight angle so the lumpiness isn't as obvious as it is on the sill plates.
The original sill plate appearance was very nice but turned out to be very impractical when the car was driven.
Regards,
Alan
M
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Race Director
Joined: Apr 2011
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From: North of Toronto - Ontario
Former Vendor
Joined: Aug 2006
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From: Jeffersonville Indiana 812-288-7103
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
Steve-
I'm not sure how much trouble your willing to go through to remove/refurb these. New sills are around 19.00 each.
Willcox
I'm not sure how much trouble your willing to go through to remove/refurb these. New sills are around 19.00 each.
Willcox
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 2,569
Likes: 126
From: San Diego California
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 823
Likes: 57
From: Austin TX
Regarding the final finish on the OP's sills, I strongly suggest taking them to an anodizing facility after they're cleaned up. An alternative would be to have them clear powder coated. Those are the only two ways I know to make the finish last a reasonable amount of time after all this work is done. I occasionally finish electronics panels with clear lacquer when I'm in a hurry, but that would never hold up in this application.
Former Vendor
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 76,656
Likes: 1,851
From: Jeffersonville Indiana 812-288-7103
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
I did a video years ago on how to build one of the de-plater's with a 55 gallon plastic drum, some copper rod stock and two anode plates. It works great for grease, rust and paint too. You can stick the entire trailing arm in there and get rid of all the rust and grease or you can stick a complete seat frame in there and it will be rust free when removed.
I pulled the video down because I didn't want any liability issues...
But.... I use Sodium Hydroxide (lye), and Sodium carbonate. (soda ash which you can get at a pool supply store or by cooking soda at around 350 degrees for 1/2 hour) with reversed current to my anodes.
The bi-product would be the hydrogen bubbles generated which can lead to some fun to the inspecting individual and the black **** created on the part being cleaned.
Aside from that its a pretty nice tool to have since running it is cheaper than having someone run the compressors and the sand blasters.
Willcox
I pulled the video down because I didn't want any liability issues...
But.... I use Sodium Hydroxide (lye), and Sodium carbonate. (soda ash which you can get at a pool supply store or by cooking soda at around 350 degrees for 1/2 hour) with reversed current to my anodes.
The bi-product would be the hydrogen bubbles generated which can lead to some fun to the inspecting individual and the black **** created on the part being cleaned.
Aside from that its a pretty nice tool to have since running it is cheaper than having someone run the compressors and the sand blasters.
Willcox
Last edited by Willcox Corvette; Mar 27, 2016 at 10:52 PM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 823
Likes: 57
From: Austin TX
I did a video years ago on how to build one of the de-plater's with a 55 gallon plastic drum, some copper rod stock and two anode plates. It works great for grease, rust and paint too. You can stick the entire trailing arm in there and get rid of all the rust and grease or you can stick a complete seat frame in there and it will be rust free when removed.
I pulled the video down because I didn't want any liability issues...
But.... I use Sodium Hydroxide (lye), and Sodium carbonate. (soda ash which you can get at a pool supply store or by cooking soda at around 350 degrees for 1/2 hour) with reversed current to my anodes.
The bi-product would be the hydrogen bubbles generated which can lead to some fun to the inspecting individual and the black **** created on the part being cleaned.
Aside from that its a pretty nice tool to have since running it is cheaper than having someone run the compressors and the sand blasters.
Willcox
I pulled the video down because I didn't want any liability issues...
But.... I use Sodium Hydroxide (lye), and Sodium carbonate. (soda ash which you can get at a pool supply store or by cooking soda at around 350 degrees for 1/2 hour) with reversed current to my anodes.
The bi-product would be the hydrogen bubbles generated which can lead to some fun to the inspecting individual and the black **** created on the part being cleaned.
Aside from that its a pretty nice tool to have since running it is cheaper than having someone run the compressors and the sand blasters.
Willcox