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Baseline Distributor position

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Old Mar 28, 2016 | 10:02 AM
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Default Baseline Distributor position

I am finally done with my 77 L48. Its time to start it up. My stock HEI distributor was not removed but it was moved so its not in the same position as when I parked it a year ago. Because it doesn't have a traditional rotor that I can point at the #1 cylinder is there a baseline position it needs to be in before I turn the key?
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Old Mar 28, 2016 | 10:31 AM
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The stock HEI still has a contact on one position on the outer diameter of the rotor. The rotor is round, but still the same function as a points rotor, procedure is still the same as well.
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Old Mar 28, 2016 | 11:59 AM
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You can set timing with engine just cranking.
BTW, you could advance it a little more than stock spec, as long as it does not ping...drive it and see.

Last edited by mikem350; Mar 30, 2016 at 10:48 AM.
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Old Mar 29, 2016 | 08:10 PM
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Determine which plug tower is going to be your #1 wire. Mark the base of the distributer below this tower indicating exactly where the plug connector is. Get your engine at 10 degrees BTDC. Stab the distributor so the rotor aligns with the mark you made on the base and snug the hold down a bit. Put the cap and wires on. You are ready to crank. You will be pretty close to 10 and can adjust from there.

I'm pretty sure your timing light won't work unless the plug wire is firing and it won't fire if the 12 volt lead is not connected.
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Old Mar 30, 2016 | 11:37 AM
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Originally Posted by flyeri
Determine which plug tower is going to be your #1 wire. Mark the base of the distributer below this tower indicating exactly where the plug connector is. Get your engine at 10 degrees BTDC. Stab the distributor so the rotor aligns with the mark you made on the base and snug the hold down a bit. Put the cap and wires on. You are ready to crank. You will be pretty close to 10 and can adjust from there.

I'm pretty sure your timing light won't work unless the plug wire is firing and it won't fire if the 12 volt lead is not connected.
My distributor was never removed. The motor ran perfect when I parked it in the garage. When I was cleaning up the engine compartment I noticed that the previous owner had never tightened the distributor so it turned when I was cleaning up around it. I have the spark plug wires installed and routed correctly. The distributor can only turn approx. a 1/4 turn so it didn't turn more than that. I have a pic of the distributor before it was moved and I used that as a baseline as to the general position it should be in. I think that should be close enough to start it and set the timing. I am just going to go by ear at first. Its been a while since I messed with a distributor but this is something I am pretty familiar with considering that my first 15 cars all had carburetors and distributors with points, rotor and condenser.
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Old Mar 30, 2016 | 02:15 PM
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With the Tops removed you can crank the engine with right hand, and grab the dist cap with your left. While cranking you should be able to move the cap a bit back and forth till it starts then time it.

Long arms help lol

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Old Mar 30, 2016 | 02:45 PM
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Have some to turn engine over with ignition key while you rotate the distributor slowly with cap on until it fires. This will get you in the ballpark. Then set the timing with a timing light.
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Old Apr 19, 2016 | 10:45 AM
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I plugged my distributor vacuum advance, broke out my new timing light and I set the timing at 12 BTDC which seems to be the setting my motor likes. Actually.. it runs fine between 8 and 16. It starts immediately, idles perfectly, no popping, no pinging, it warms up pretty quick and the kick down works great. Idles at about 850 which feels correct. Throttle is VERY snappy with no bogging or hesitation of any kind. Almost feels like fuel injection! We will see once I get it on the road and it gets driven in the warm temps but so far.. it seems to be good.
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